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Forum > Sewing Techniques and Tips > Trying to make a short sleeve hem with a slit in it--Tutorial? ( Moderated by MissCelie)

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Trying to make a short sleeve hem with a slit in it--Tutorial?
Miss Fairchild
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Miss Fairchild
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Date: 4/24/12 8:53 PM

I'm working on a self drafted top, made from another top and that top has a slit in the short sleeve hem. I once had a Vogue pattern that used this same technique, but I did away with that. So can anyone direct me to how this is done? Such as a tutorial/book/magazine article. Thanks!

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GlButterfly

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Date: 4/25/12 0:04 AM

Since I've come across patterns with this slit, I was certain that it would be in several sewing books. Ha! The closest I came to this is in The New Vogue Sewing Book 1980 on page 293. it is for a cuff with a slit, but it certainly can be applied to your situation. There is also a self-facing with a slit on page 282.

If you don't have this book, I can keep looking. It is not in my edition of the Reader's Digest sewing book.

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That's Gl = for Gloria, not G. I.

Miss Fairchild
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In reply to GlButterfly <<


Date: 4/26/12 4:57 PM

I figured it would be in this sewing book because it's the only one I don't have! I have the Reader's Digest one instead.

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"Play the cards you are dealt, but choose who is sitting at the table"..AARP magazine

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CM_Sews
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Date: 4/26/12 5:45 PM

Just for clarification, is this the type of notched sleeve detail you are referring to?
Photo, notched sleeve detail.(This is not my photo, just to be clear.)

Or, are we talking about a sleeve placket? (There are several different ways to sew a placket; this is only one method.)

Now that I've written this, I realize that perhaps your sleeve detail has a slit in it that is unlike either of these examples I found.

Thx,
CMC

Patti B
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In reply to Miss Fairchild <<


Date: 4/26/12 6:06 PM

It's also in the newest edition of Clotilde's Sew Smart, section 4-20 and forward.

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Miss Fairchild
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In reply to CM_Sews <<


Date: 4/27/12 0:01 AM

Hi CMSews. It's the notched sleeve, (the first link) but with a 2" hem. I'm fuzzy as to how I should turn it, or if I should sew it first before turning. Any way I can get directions?

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"Play the cards you are dealt, but choose who is sitting at the table"..AARP magazine

SEE MY ETSY SHOP HERE: http://www.etsy.com/shop/AuntMaymesAttic
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GlButterfly

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Date: 4/27/12 0:52 AM

Ok, now this is getting frustrating. I have checked most of my sewing books, including men's, my patterns, including for men, and so far, nothing. How can that be?

What I didn't check was pants patterns. Sometimes there is a slit/notch at the hems. Will check those.

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That's Gl = for Gloria, not G. I.

CM_Sews
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In reply to Miss Fairchild <<


Date: 4/27/12 1:58 AM

I've been studying that picture and I tried a mockup with a scrap of fabric. The picture of the associated pattern piece was quite helpful:Notched sleeve hem photo.

Fold on the hemline "backwards", that is, fold the hem up RIGHT sides together.
Using the pattern piece in the photo as a guide, we started with the hem flat, and the notch area has a diamond-shaped marking, with dots on the hemline, and dots at the "long points" of the diamond.

When we fold the hem right sides together, we'd see a triangle marking -- half of that diamond shape. We're going to match the two "long point" dots to each other.

Sew from the dot on the hemline to the "long point" dot. Pivot on that dot and sew to the other dot on the hemline. (Per my test, you should use whatever method you are familiar with for getting that "V" point sewn well so you get a sharp turned "V" when you turn the hem. My 30 second test could have used more careful sewing and clipping, but it proved the technique.)

The solid line you see on the pattern piece in the picture, running from "long point" dot to "long point" dot is the cutting line. With the hem folded up, we see only half of that diamond shape. Cut from the hem fold to the point of the "V" on that cutting line (inside the "V"); do not cut any stitches.. Press the cut edges (seam allowances?) away from the center of the "V".

Now, turn and fold the hem so that the wrong sides of the fabric are together. This is the way the hem will be folded when you sew it down. Gently poke and shape the two points on either side of the notch. Press.

If I have this wrong, please, someone, anyone, let me know and I'll edit these instructions.

CMC
May 2, 2012: Edited to fix a few English grammar/spelling errors.
-- Edited on 5/2/12 8:00 PM --

Miss Fairchild
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In reply to CM_Sews <<


Date: 4/27/12 2:09 AM

Ohhh! Thank you!!! I'm tracking this topic so I'll have it handy.

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"Play the cards you are dealt, but choose who is sitting at the table"..AARP magazine

SEE MY ETSY SHOP HERE: http://www.etsy.com/shop/AuntMaymesAttic
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chebre

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Date: 9/16/12 12:27 PM

Thank you for posting the question and the answer! I am sewing a short sleeved burda pattern and the instructions are, as usual, minimal and incomplete.

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