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Message Board > Fitting Woes > bubbly bias seams ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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bubbly bias seams
skirt seams on Collette oolong dress bubble
wendyjc
wendyjc
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Member since 6/2/10
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Date: 4/27/12 10:05 PM

The dress looks great hanging. I made the lining out of batiste on the bias and there was no problem. The actual dress is washed silk and the seams bubble.

Help! It looks terrible.

solosmocker
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solosmocker
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Date: 4/28/12 6:41 PM

Is a bubble the same as a ripple? I am not quite getting the visual here. Any chance of pics?

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tigergirl
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tigergirl
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Date: 4/29/12 0:53 AM

this has always been my fear with bias which is why I've never even attempted it. Quite often RTW bias cuts have those bubbles too - one shop assistant told me that they were meant to be that way, that it was a characteristic of bias cuts. Ah, no, they're not.

sorry, I'm no help. I did read somewhere once that you should use really small stitches.

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Janome 693
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shajarataddurr
shajarataddurr
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In reply to wendyjc <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 4/29/12 3:23 PM

I've had this problem too. The only thing that has helped me is to a) keep the tissue paper on the fabric and tear it away once sewn and
b) increase my seam allowances and sew about 1" seam allowances, trimming afterwards.

dodgypinz
dodgypinz
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In reply to wendyjc <<


Date: 5/1/12 1:23 PM

I haven't had this problem but been reading a book about couture sewing and several suggestions were made. E.G. make a strap seam using either self or contrast/toning bias binding. Sew with slightly smaller than usual stitch and if possible on your machine remove dogs ( the teeth under the needle that pushes the fabric through.) then ensure that you are not stretching the fabric as you sew. Sew in short bursts and re aligne the fabric after each burst so you are in fact edging round the curve for the bias seam.

For my money I would go for the Bias strap seam as it will cover a multitude of sins plus give a truly classy couture look to the garment. Good luck.
Incidentally in another book about using serger they had other suggestions but I don't have that book to hand having loaned it to a friend. Might be worth looking in a good serger book for ideas?

Elona
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In reply to wendyjc <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 5/1/12 3:26 PM

This wonderful article by Marcy Tilton about working with bias probably belongs in every sewist's library.

Do check out in detail what she says about pre--stretching and sewing bias seams. It is not the traditional approach, but I have attended two of her classes on the subject, and the garments she showed (and wore) were gorgeous and hung beautifully. The results spoke for themselves.

koyukineko
koyukineko
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Date: 5/31/12 10:50 AM

I've also heard to stretch fabric slightly both way with your fingers while sewing on your machine. I just recently started working with bias, I just kind of treated it like a knit and I haven't had that problem just yet. I've also head about pre-stretching the bias too, even putting little weights on it and letting it hang over night. I've also heard to steam to help the stretch.

What I did was iron the seams with steam and stretch slightly as I was sewing. When I made a muslin of this dress, I did wet it and let it dry over not not really realizing what I was doing (I was really just trying to wash it) and then the drape was much nicer.

carolbee
carolbee
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In reply to Elona <<


Date: 5/31/12 7:38 PM

This article by Marcy Tilton is very informative and helpful!
Thanks for sharing!

rag doll
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rag doll  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/3/12 8:14 AM

I remember asking this same question on PR about 2 years ago. One suggestion was to allow more ease as when the garment stretches on the body the seams tend to ripple if there's not enough ease. It ended up to be my problem and as soon as I added more ease my seams didn't bubble.

Also, the Marcy Tilton article is great, I have saved this for future reference.

Hope this helps
Sue

------
Brother QC1000, Brother PQ1500, Bernina Virtuosa 160, Pfaff (old), Babylock BLCS, Bernette 1100D, Bernette 334DS

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