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Forum > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Waistband With or Against the grain?

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Waistband With or Against the grain?
JTink
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JTink
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Date: 4/28/12 11:52 AM

I'm cutting out a pair of slacks and don't have enough room to lay the pattern piece for the waistband, on the lengthwise grain. Is it OK to place the waistband on the cross grain? I've actually seen the grain arrows, on some waistband pieces that form a cross, indicating it can be cut both ways. What is the secret to this? I'm using a linen blend.

HDWen
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HDWen  Friend of PR
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In reply to JTink <<


Date: 4/28/12 12:01 PM

Hope some expert jumps in!!

Personally, I would cut it with the grain even if you have to put a seam or two in. They won't be noticable if you make sure you line the waistband seams up with the back slacks seam, side seams etc...

Hope that helps?

**edited to say - I mean if you have enough with grain to section off the waistband - sounds like you do if you have enough to go against grain... just my thoughts
-- Edited on 4/28/12 12:02 PM --

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I have a great enthusium for sewing, but lack talent to be great.

2013

marjoriekh
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marjoriekh  Friend of PR
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Date: 4/28/12 12:25 PM

JTink -- is there much mechanical stretch on the crosswise grain? I wouldn't think there would be with linen, but the 'blend' part may make a difference.

If there's basically no crosswise stretch, then I would go ahead and cut it crosswise.

(Did you see the thread where I was asking about cutting a without-nap layout? Sounds like Stirwatersblue has been cutting linen whichever way it fits for years without problems.)

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marjoriekh

JTink
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JTink
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In reply to marjoriekh <<


Date: 4/28/12 2:10 PM

HDWen and Marj, thanks so much for the suggestions. Adding the back seam would be an option. There is absolutely no stretch in the crosswise grain.

Patti B
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Patti B  Friend of PR
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Date: 4/28/12 2:17 PM

Since I normally fuse interfacing to the waistband and use the Palmer Pletsch waistband stabilizer, I haven't seen that using the crossgrain made a difference in the behavior of the band. Haven't done it with anything too stretchy though. Sometimes you just don't have enough fabric. ;-(

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Patti

R-r-r-ripping my way to fitting success

JTink
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JTink
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In reply to Patti B <<


Date: 4/28/12 3:57 PM

Patti, you are right. I interface all my waistbands and have, on occasion used the crossgrain. I just didn't know if there was a "rule" or not I've gone ahead and cut mine out on the cross grain. Can't wait to get these slacks put together. It's the prettiest blue linen I think I had originally bought just enough to make capris, but after laying out the pattern found that I had a lot more material than I needed, so opted for the full length slacks.

marec
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In reply to JTink <<


Date: 4/28/12 8:49 PM

Pictures! Sharing is caring...

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my blog: http://kf-biblioblog.blogspot.com/
Sewing through my pattern stash-145
completed.

JTink
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JTink
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In reply to marec <<
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Date: 4/28/12 10:38 PM

Marec, I actually plan to review these. I seem to make a lot of stuff and just never get them reviewed. Most of what I make is TNT and folks probably don't want to keep reading reviews of the same garment

HDWen
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HDWen  Friend of PR
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Date: 4/29/12 11:08 AM

Patti! omg can't believe I forgot -- just what you said -- using interfacing you do have the option of cutting however and I like a nice stiff waistband on pants.

The blue you described sounds lovely, good luck and will watch for review

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I have a great enthusium for sewing, but lack talent to be great.

2013

meanjean
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meanjean  Friend of PR
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Date: 5/5/12 8:25 AM

I looked this up.

Classically, waistbands are cut on the lengthwise grain to avoid stretch. When you think about it, the waistband is what supplies the support of garments like pants and skirts on the body. If the waistband stretchs too much, you have to consider how the garment will look or hang on the body.

For instance, I have a pair of everyday summer pants that fit great in the morning, but by the end of the day the waistaband is so stretched out that they sag unattactively and I'm constantly pullying them up. Yuck! Too much stretch in the wasitband. It's cut on the cross-grain. Obviously, the interfacing used for this waistband has way too much "give" in it.

The general idea is that if you need stretch in the waistband for comfort, use elastic. Use it all the way around, or just in the back, or just side inserts. Its magical quality is that it *bounces back*!

-- Edited on 5/5/12 8:34 AM --

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Jean

"A woman of valor, who can find? ... She seeks out wool and linen, and her hands work willingly ..." Proverbs 3:13-18

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