Sewing Patterns, Pattern Review, Sewing Classes, Sewing Machines and Sewing Machine Reviews!
Platinum Sponsor: Stylish Fabric
Over 20,000 of high quality reorderable fabric

[SIGNUP - FREE Membership & 1 FREE Sewing Lesson ]
[Sewing Classes|Shopping Bag Your Shopping Bag|Login|Help]
Sewing Review and Pattern Reviews Sewing Knowledge Base Sewing Patterns Sewing Classes & Sewing Lessons Sewing Machine & Embroidery Machinery Sewing Message Boards Sewing merchants Blog Help/FAQ About Pattern Review
Enter your e-mail address:




Advanced Search
Tags
New to PR?
Sewing Machines
Compare Sewing Machines
Sewing Machine & Serger Reviews
Embroidery Machines
Sewing Reviews
Sewing Patterns
Review Gallery
Sewing Books
Sewing Supplies
Sewing Websites
Sewing Stores
Sewing Class Reviews
Sewing Expo Reviews
Sewing Tips & Techniques
Sewing Podcasts
NEW!Fabric Glossary
Sewing Review Requests Add a Review Request
Your Account
Edit Profile
My Page
Favorites
Wish List
Pattern Catalog
Notifications
Friends of PR
Join Friends of PR
Find a member
Deal Corner
Photo Album
Calendar
Chat Room
Chat Schedule
Chat Transcripts
Sewing Classifieds
Add a Classified
Sewing Contests
enter contest
contest report
contest gallery
Favorite Links
reviews with comments
merchant gallery
article archive
newsletter archive
Craft Resources
contact info
shipping rates
returns & refunds
testimonials

Platinum Sponsor - Stylish Fabric
Stylish Fabric
You are not logged in. Login here.



Message Board > Fitting Woes > Ottobre Cross-front top ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
Ottobre Cross-front top
Help! Don't know how to adjust upper bodice!
westmoon
star
westmoon  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
IRELAND
Member since 9/7/11
Posts: 557
Login to reply to this post

Date: 5/1/12 4:12 PM

I am just beginning to make clothes and I thought I would have a have a go at making this top (the sleeveless top on the left) from Ottobre Woman 2/2008:



As you can see, the bodice is in two parts, an upper bodice with a crossover front and a lower panel. The seam is supposed to fall below the bust. I've traced out the pattern and it is immediately obvious from a quick glance at a tissue fit that on me the seam will fall at or slightly above the fullest part of my bust, and I have no idea how to fix it.

I am making a size 48 as my measurements fall between a 46 and a 48. The full bust measurement for a size 48 is identical to mine (110cm), but my waist and hip are closer to the size 46. In theory, therefore, I should not need a full bust adjustment, based on the books I've read. I'd like to just drop the seam, but I have no idea where I can add length without either making an immense armhole or else messing up the way it crosses at the front. I want it to be longer, but I don't want the neckline to be more revealing.




-- Edited on 5/1/12 4:13 PM --
-- Edited on 5/1/12 4:13 PM --

------
http://sewingnovice.blogspot.co.uk/
One woman. One sewing machine. One giant stack of fabric. What could possibly go wrong?

blue mooney
starstarstar
blue mooney
Intermediate
TX USA
Member since 12/21/02
Posts: 1848
Login to reply to this post

Date: 5/2/12 10:22 AM

Here's what I'd do, depending on where that horizontal seam falls on the side, under your arm.

If that seam looks like it's in the right position, you can just add extra below the breast. That will mean drafting a curve for the lower edge of the upper bodice. I've done this for other patterns when I only needed an inch or less. If you need more, maybe a FBA is in order.

If the position of the seam under your arm is too high, make a horizontal slash across the pattern piece beneath the armscye (so you don't make that opening larger) and spread the amount you need. Then true up the diagonal neckline. If you do this, you might also need to lengthen the back in the same place, depending on how it's constructed. If you don't lengthen the back, you'll need to shorten the lower front somewhere so that your side seams still match.

If you have some throwaway material, it would be good to just make a muslin. Sometimes fabric relaxes and flows over curves in ways tissue paper doesn't!

------
--Robyn
sewing blog: http://bluemooney.wordpress.com/
illustration blog: http://storybooky.wordpress.com/

westmoon
star
westmoon  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
IRELAND
Member since 9/7/11
Posts: 557
Login to reply to this post

In reply to blue mooney <<


Date: 5/2/12 3:17 PM

Thank you! I did as you suggested and lengthened the bodice by 5cm, and the seam line is now more or less exactly where I would like it to be in the finished top.

I don't think I really understood the whole FBA = good fit for the well-endowed thing until I just made up a muslin just now using my full bust measurement as the basis for choosing the size rather than the high bust. Alas, while my new, longer bodice now has the horizontal seam exactly where I want it to be, it's also totally the wrong size in every other respect. It fits great at my full bust, but nowhere else. Back to the drawing board with a smaller size and a (very large) FBA, I think!

------
http://sewingnovice.blogspot.co.uk/
One woman. One sewing machine. One giant stack of fabric. What could possibly go wrong?

blue mooney
starstarstar
blue mooney
Intermediate
TX USA
Member since 12/21/02
Posts: 1848
Login to reply to this post

In reply to westmoon <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 5/3/12 11:04 AM

Yep! You don't need to be especially va-va-voom to need an FBA.

------
--Robyn
sewing blog: http://bluemooney.wordpress.com/
illustration blog: http://storybooky.wordpress.com/

meleliza
star
meleliza  Friend of PR
Intermediate
PA
Member since 5/4/11
Posts: 654
Login to reply to this post

Date: 5/3/12 11:17 PM

It's more about getting the right size in the shoulders than the bust. You want to get the pattern that fits your overall frame, then adjust for you bust. For the big four companies, this means using your high bust measurement rather than your full bust to determine which size to make. Then you figure out how much ease the pattern needs and how much ease you desire to see what to add. I recently did an fba in a cross over top that had all these pleats under the bust. It was really tricky to work out how to do it, but eventually I added a wedge and an additional pleat to allow more room without altering the neckline. A muslin is most likely in order here.

------
Melanie

LauraTS
star
LauraTS  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
CA USA
Member since 7/10/06
Posts: 2152
Login to reply to this post

Date: 5/5/12 9:43 PM

How tall are you, and how long is your torso? It may be a general length thing rather than a bust thing (or some of both). Ottobre drafts for ~5'6", iirc, so if you're taller than that or have a longer torso, then you may need a length adjustment. I regularly lengthen tops both above and below the waist. It can get a bit of a pain with crossovers like the top you made, because sometimes you want to lengthen the overall length but not adjust the neckline.

------
I've moved! Visit my new sewing blog at http://chiralcraft.wordpress.com

Do you sew from KnipMode? Join us at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/knipmode_english/

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Fitting Woes >> Ottobre Cross-front top

Merchants on PR
Patterns from the Past
vintage sewing patterns
Deals!
Elliott Berman Textiles
Fabrics for Greater Ideas
Deals!
Sewn Square One
Patterns for Your Style.
Web site
Gwyn Hug
Fabric Shopping Help!
Deals!
Lanetzliving Vintage Sewing Patterns
Vintage Sewing Patterns
Deals!

Copyright © 2014 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.
Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Contact Us
Online Sewing Classes
Beginners Guide to Sewing Jackets
Fee: $29.00
(Regular $49.00)
Beginners Guide to Sewing Jackets

Online Sewing Classes
Sew a Designer Unlined Jacket
Fee: $29.00
(Regular $49.00)
Sew a Designer Unlined Jacket

McCall's 2940
photo
Review by HanPanda on 12/27/13
Read Review

Burda 7645 Pattern
Burda 7645 Pattern

Details
Price: $8.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Kwik Sew 3320 Pattern
Kwik Sew 3320 Pattern

Details
Price: $11.49
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Vogue Patterns 8323
photo
Review by MNBarb on 10/29/11
Read Review

Peek-A Boo Peep Toe Booties Digital Pattern ( Size 0 mo -18 mo )
Peek-A Boo Peep Toe Booties Digital Pattern ( Size 0 mo -18 mo )

Details
Price: $3.99
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Peek-A Boo Annabelle Hat Digital Pattern ( Size 0-10 years )
Peek-A Boo Annabelle Hat Digital Pattern ( Size 0-10 years )

Details
Price: $4.99
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Victory Roxanne Paper Pattern
Victory Roxanne Paper Pattern

Details
Price: $19.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Petite Plus D202 DVD
Petite Plus D202 DVD

Details
Price: $35.00
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Subscribe to PR Message Board Feed Subscribe to the PR Message Board Feed Add to My Yahoo! Subscribe at NewsGator Online Subscribe at Bloglines Add to MyMSN