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Ottobre Cross-front top
Help! Don't know how to adjust upper bodice!
westmoon
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westmoon  Friend of PR
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Date: 5/1/12 4:12 PM

I am just beginning to make clothes and I thought I would have a have a go at making this top (the sleeveless top on the left) from Ottobre Woman 2/2008:



As you can see, the bodice is in two parts, an upper bodice with a crossover front and a lower panel. The seam is supposed to fall below the bust. I've traced out the pattern and it is immediately obvious from a quick glance at a tissue fit that on me the seam will fall at or slightly above the fullest part of my bust, and I have no idea how to fix it.

I am making a size 48 as my measurements fall between a 46 and a 48. The full bust measurement for a size 48 is identical to mine (110cm), but my waist and hip are closer to the size 46. In theory, therefore, I should not need a full bust adjustment, based on the books I've read. I'd like to just drop the seam, but I have no idea where I can add length without either making an immense armhole or else messing up the way it crosses at the front. I want it to be longer, but I don't want the neckline to be more revealing.




-- Edited on 5/1/12 4:13 PM --
-- Edited on 5/1/12 4:13 PM --

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http://sewingnovice.blogspot.co.uk/
One woman. One sewing machine. One giant stack of fabric. What could possibly go wrong?

blue mooney
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blue mooney
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Date: 5/2/12 10:22 AM

Here's what I'd do, depending on where that horizontal seam falls on the side, under your arm.

If that seam looks like it's in the right position, you can just add extra below the breast. That will mean drafting a curve for the lower edge of the upper bodice. I've done this for other patterns when I only needed an inch or less. If you need more, maybe a FBA is in order.

If the position of the seam under your arm is too high, make a horizontal slash across the pattern piece beneath the armscye (so you don't make that opening larger) and spread the amount you need. Then true up the diagonal neckline. If you do this, you might also need to lengthen the back in the same place, depending on how it's constructed. If you don't lengthen the back, you'll need to shorten the lower front somewhere so that your side seams still match.

If you have some throwaway material, it would be good to just make a muslin. Sometimes fabric relaxes and flows over curves in ways tissue paper doesn't!

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--Robyn
sewing blog: http://bluemooney.wordpress.com/
other artwork blogged here: http://robynjorde.com/blog/

westmoon
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westmoon  Friend of PR
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In reply to blue mooney <<


Date: 5/2/12 3:17 PM

Thank you! I did as you suggested and lengthened the bodice by 5cm, and the seam line is now more or less exactly where I would like it to be in the finished top.

I don't think I really understood the whole FBA = good fit for the well-endowed thing until I just made up a muslin just now using my full bust measurement as the basis for choosing the size rather than the high bust. Alas, while my new, longer bodice now has the horizontal seam exactly where I want it to be, it's also totally the wrong size in every other respect. It fits great at my full bust, but nowhere else. Back to the drawing board with a smaller size and a (very large) FBA, I think!

------
http://sewingnovice.blogspot.co.uk/
One woman. One sewing machine. One giant stack of fabric. What could possibly go wrong?

blue mooney
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blue mooney
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In reply to westmoon <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 5/3/12 11:04 AM

Yep! You don't need to be especially va-va-voom to need an FBA.

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--Robyn
sewing blog: http://bluemooney.wordpress.com/
other artwork blogged here: http://robynjorde.com/blog/

meleliza
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meleliza  Friend of PR
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Date: 5/3/12 11:17 PM

It's more about getting the right size in the shoulders than the bust. You want to get the pattern that fits your overall frame, then adjust for you bust. For the big four companies, this means using your high bust measurement rather than your full bust to determine which size to make. Then you figure out how much ease the pattern needs and how much ease you desire to see what to add. I recently did an fba in a cross over top that had all these pleats under the bust. It was really tricky to work out how to do it, but eventually I added a wedge and an additional pleat to allow more room without altering the neckline. A muslin is most likely in order here.

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Melanie

LauraTS
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LauraTS  Friend of PR
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Date: 5/5/12 9:43 PM

How tall are you, and how long is your torso? It may be a general length thing rather than a bust thing (or some of both). Ottobre drafts for ~5'6", iirc, so if you're taller than that or have a longer torso, then you may need a length adjustment. I regularly lengthen tops both above and below the waist. It can get a bit of a pain with crossovers like the top you made, because sometimes you want to lengthen the overall length but not adjust the neckline.

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