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Order of fitting
FBA and Moving Darts
Mary Heckman
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Mary Heckman  Friend of PR
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Date: 5/2/12 7:02 AM

I am making Butterick 5602. I am on my second muslin. I made my FBA and Broad Back adjustment, but now I see that the dart is too high. Can I just move the dart now after the FBA, or should I start all over again with tracing the pattern and beginning again. I have looked at several books but I really can find order of alterations. Does any one have a chart of what you should look for by steps?

KathySews
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KathySews
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In reply to Mary Heckman <<
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Date: 5/2/12 7:40 AM

In general, I do top down fitting...shoulders, back then bust. I have spent time on an fba to find the side seams are not straight and the back needed adjusting. Then had to adjust the fba now that the side seams are straight. argggg

With this muslin, can you just unpick and pin fit the darts down to where they should be? I need a fairly large fba so have learned to drape fit the darts on my body after I make my fba.

hope this helps

Mary Heckman
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Mary Heckman  Friend of PR
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In reply to KathySews <<


Date: 5/2/12 10:13 AM

I am not sure how you do this???

lca
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In reply to Mary Heckman <<


Date: 5/2/12 1:01 PM

You can just move the dart down after the FBA.

wendyrb
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In reply to Mary Heckman <<
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Date: 5/3/12 4:41 AM

Here's how it works for me. I start by addressing my most difficult fitting issue- needing a FBA. Resolving the most problematic fit concern also helps diminish associated side effects. When things are pulling from my bust point there's a ripple effect that moves through the whole garment. Once that source of the ripples settles down, I find a lot of other concerns go away or are less severe.

First, I have to get the muslin to go around my bust both horizontally and vertically. I always mark a Horizontal Balance Line on the front and back of the muslin to see where things are tipped up or sagging down. With a well-fitting FBA, the front Horizontal Balance Line drops down and levels, plus the hem is parallel to the floor. With that major distortion/distraction out of the way, I can then assess other issues.

You'll save yourself a lot of headaches by first finding and then using your own bust point to do your FBA. I do this with a quick tissue fitting- pin the pattern shoulders and side seams, pop it on. I make sure the Center Back is pinned on a base garment so it is accurately at my Center Back. For fitted garments I can't always get the entire Center Front pinned completely closed; it bursts open over the bust area, but I close it best I can. I mark the apex of my bust with 2 crossed pins or a pen dot. I look to measure the the distance from the Neck/Shoulder pattern point and also the distance from the Center Front. When I do the FBA, I use this point to slash and spread the pattern. This way, the position of my bust is built in to the adjustment. I don't have to back track and move the bust point later. HTH.
-- Edited on 5/3/12 4:42 AM --

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Pfonzie- my honey Pfaff Creative Performance, Bernina 930 and 830, Evolution serger.

CathrynR
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In reply to KathySews <<


Date: 5/3/12 4:49 AM

what a great idea, to drape fit the darts after the fba. This is definitely what I am going to do on my next muslin. I am so tired of moving the dart up or down after the fba. Thanks so much for the lightbulb.

KathySews
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KathySews
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In reply to CathrynR <<


Date: 5/3/12 6:15 AM

I expecially drape fit the fba in my knits often because each knit seems to have its own idea of how/where the dart should be.

KathySews
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KathySews
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In reply to Mary Heckman <<


Date: 5/3/12 6:19 AM

Mary. I am not sure what you are asking me. But I have found that instructions have you sewing the dart first. I pin the pattern together and try it on. The fabric will fold or pull where the dart should be.

carolbee
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In reply to wendyrb <<


Date: 5/21/12 9:03 PM

Thanks so much for this helpful information! I will try this as
I am about to do a muslin for a pattern I have never made.
This makes a LOT of sense!

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