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Forum > Bridal and Formalwear Sewing > Wedding dress skirt underlining ( Moderated by MissCelie)

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Wedding dress skirt underlining
Yea or Nay?
kidmd
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kidmd
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Utah USA
Member since 4/20/09
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Date: 5/4/12 7:35 PM

I'm making a wedding dress for my soon to be sister in law, and am debating the interior finish/structure.

She wants a vintage 50s style dress - princess seamed bodice, full skirt, below knee length. We're using New Look 6723, with the sweetheart neckline and elbow length sleeves. She wants the final dress to look like this one, but with a bit more fullness to the skirt. The fabric she has chosen is a shantung, which doesn't have much body, and she definitely wants the skirt to have a lot of "pouf". I was considering underlining the skirt fashion fabric with crinoline or net to stiffen it. Anyone done this? Am I crazy?? I am also considering a horsehair braid hem (instead of the underlining), but I was thinking it might have a better shape if the stiffness wasn't confined to just the hem. There will also be a couple of layers of tulle and lace overlaying the skirt as well as a built in net crinoline, so a firm underlining may be overkill.

Anyone made a dress like this?

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**Katie**
http://katiekadiddlehopper.blogspot.com

Sickofitcindy
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Sickofitcindy
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Date: 5/4/12 8:22 PM

I would underline with silk organza ESP if you're using a dupioni. This way you"ll be able to be able to hem the shirt invisibly.

Nancy K
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Nancy K
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In reply to kidmd <<


Date: 5/4/12 8:57 PM

I concur, silk organza for underlining. A crinoline would be a separate layer. The current Threads has an article on crinolines or how to add some pouf to a skirt.
Duppioni or shantung both wrinkle horribly and underlining lessens that. She won't be a total wrinkled mess before she even walks down the aisle. You should see if your library has or can get you a copy of Susan Khalje's Bridal Couture. Not sure of the exact title but it 's out of print and only available on a cd from Khalje. The last time I looked on line for it, used was $75. The book is an amazing resource for sewing not only bridal couture but any formal clothing.

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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

Peter in NYC
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Peter in NYC
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Date: 5/4/12 9:45 PM

Here's the link to the Bridal Couture CD:

http://www.susankhalje.com/store.html

It's $39.95

But I noticed tonight that a few used copies on Amazon can be had for less than $50, which is about $25 less than I paid!

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You'll be in stitches at malepatternboldness.com!

andye
andye  Friend of PR
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Date: 5/4/12 10:16 PM

Google books has it for $15, in ebook form.

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Bernina B330
Feet: 1,2,3,3A,4,5,7,8,10,13,16,18,20, 29,32,35,37,50,64,70,71,82,85,86, 92

tinflutterby
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Date: 5/5/12 0:48 AM

I would also underline in silk organza. I'm making a similar dress for my daughter. I am using Vogue 8766 views C and F. The strapless dress is duchess satin so it has sufficient body with just the crinoline I hope. Are you planning to bone and waist stay the strapless bodice?

candicer
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candicer
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Date: 5/5/12 8:53 AM

I, too, am making a similiar dress for a client! This ine is pretty much the same style; sweetheart neckline with full crinolined skirt, but the sheer overlay is in chiffon. The underlayer is a satin faced crepe , with absolutley no body. It will definetly need an underlining! I'm thinking it may need something even a little more than silk organza? Had she asked my opinion before purchasing the fabric I'd have suggested a different fabric. The other issue I'm having is that she wants a lightly beaded trim at the neckline and sleeves and hem.I'm really afraid that even a light trim will weigh down the chiffon.

kidmd
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kidmd
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Date: 5/5/12 10:31 AM

Thanks everyone for the responses so far! My library system does have a copy of Bridal Couture. It's checked out, but I've placed a hold, so I should have it to peruse soon. Fortunately, the wedding is in August, so I still have some time. We're fitting the first muslin today.

It sounds like organza is the general consensus! I'm going to make some samples and play around with the fabrics today, since I'll have the bride here to render her opinion. Fortunately, I have some in my stash, so we can compare it. I noticed many of the RTW dresses she tried on were not underlined at all (gasp!), and had a narrow horsehair hem treatment that was only secured at the seamlines.

@tinflutterby - I dodged the boning bullet with this one. We aren't doing the strapless underbodice as she needs the dress to have sleeves. We are doing a full bodice with cap sleeves, with the lace sleeve extending to the elbow. I am considering a waist stay, since the skirt will have so many layers. I think I will see how heavy it ends up, and add a stay at the end if it is needed.

@candicer - That sounds lovely. I can see the challenges you'll have beading the chiffon though. I hope you post a picture if you can!

It seems like this will be a fairly popular style this wedding season. I was surprised that none of the bridal salons we visited had anything like this - even here in Utah, where dresses with sleeves are quite common. One salon actually had no dresses that were not floor length or longer. And shortening a dress with a lace overlay is not an insignificant alteration.

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**Katie**
http://katiekadiddlehopper.blogspot.com

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