Sewing Patterns, Pattern Review, Sewing Classes, Sewing Machines and Sewing Machine Reviews!
Platinum Sponsor: Stylish Fabric
Over 20,000 of high quality reorderable fabric

[SIGNUP - FREE Membership & 1 FREE Sewing Lesson ]
[Sewing Classes|Shopping Bag Your Shopping Bag|Login|Help]
Sewing Review and Pattern Reviews Sewing Knowledge Base Sewing Patterns Sewing Classes & Sewing Lessons Sewing Machine & Embroidery Machinery Sewing Message Boards Sewing merchants Blog Help/FAQ About Pattern Review
Enter your e-mail address:




Advanced Search
Tags
New to PR?
Sewing Machines
Compare Sewing Machines
Sewing Machine & Serger Reviews
Embroidery Machines
Sewing Reviews
Sewing Patterns
Review Gallery
Sewing Books
Sewing Supplies
Sewing Websites
Sewing Stores
Sewing Class Reviews
Sewing Expo Reviews
Sewing Tips & Techniques
Sewing Podcasts
NEW!Fabric Glossary
Sewing Review Requests Add a Review Request
Your Account
Edit Profile
My Page
Favorites
Wish List
Pattern Catalog
Notifications
Friends of PR
Join Friends of PR
Find a member
Deal Corner
Photo Album
Calendar
Chat Room
Chat Schedule
Chat Transcripts
Sewing Classifieds
Add a Classified
Sewing Contests
enter contest
contest report
contest gallery
Favorite Links
reviews with comments
merchant gallery
article archive
newsletter archive
Craft Resources
contact info
shipping rates
returns & refunds
testimonials

Platinum Sponsor - Stylish Fabric
Stylish Fabric
You are not logged in. Login here.



Message Board > Bridal and Formalwear Sewing > Wedding dress skirt underlining ( Moderated by MissCelie)

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
Wedding dress skirt underlining
Yea or Nay?
kidmd
starstarstarstar
kidmd
Intermediate
UT USA
Member since 4/20/09
Posts: 97
Login to reply to this post

Date: 5/4/12 7:35 PM

I'm making a wedding dress for my soon to be sister in law, and am debating the interior finish/structure.

She wants a vintage 50s style dress - princess seamed bodice, full skirt, below knee length. We're using New Look 6723, with the sweetheart neckline and elbow length sleeves. She wants the final dress to look like this one, but with a bit more fullness to the skirt. The fabric she has chosen is a shantung, which doesn't have much body, and she definitely wants the skirt to have a lot of "pouf". I was considering underlining the skirt fashion fabric with crinoline or net to stiffen it. Anyone done this? Am I crazy?? I am also considering a horsehair braid hem (instead of the underlining), but I was thinking it might have a better shape if the stiffness wasn't confined to just the hem. There will also be a couple of layers of tulle and lace overlaying the skirt as well as a built in net crinoline, so a firm underlining may be overkill.

Anyone made a dress like this?

------
**Katie**
http://katiekadiddlehopper.blogspot.com

Sickofitcindy
star
Sickofitcindy
Intermediate
NY USA
Member since 5/1/08
Posts: 420
Login to reply to this post

Date: 5/4/12 8:22 PM

I would underline with silk organza ESP if you're using a dupioni. This way you"ll be able to be able to hem the shirt invisibly.

Nancy K
starstarstar
Nancy K
Advanced
NY USA
Member since 12/28/04
Posts: 8068
Login to reply to this post

In reply to kidmd <<


Date: 5/4/12 8:57 PM

I concur, silk organza for underlining. A crinoline would be a separate layer. The current Threads has an article on crinolines or how to add some pouf to a skirt.
Duppioni or shantung both wrinkle horribly and underlining lessens that. She won't be a total wrinkled mess before she even walks down the aisle. You should see if your library has or can get you a copy of Susan Khalje's Bridal Couture. Not sure of the exact title but it 's out of print and only available on a cd from Khalje. The last time I looked on line for it, used was $75. The book is an amazing resource for sewing not only bridal couture but any formal clothing.

------
www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

Peter in NYC
starstarstarstar
Peter in NYC
Intermediate
USA
Member since 6/9/09
Posts: 330
Login to reply to this post

Date: 5/4/12 9:45 PM

Here's the link to the Bridal Couture CD:

http://www.susankhalje.com/store.html

It's $39.95

But I noticed tonight that a few used copies on Amazon can be had for less than $50, which is about $25 less than I paid!

------
You'll be in stitches at malepatternboldness.com!

andye
andye  Friend of PR
Beginner
VA USA
Member since 5/9/09
Posts: 1850
Login to reply to this post

Date: 5/4/12 10:16 PM

Google books has it for $15, in ebook form.

------
Bernina B330
Feet: 1,2,3,3A,4,5,7,8,10,13,16,18,20, 29,32,35,37,50,64,70,71,82,85,86, 92

tinflutterby
tinflutterby  Friend of PR
Advanced
CA USA
Member since 8/9/11
Posts: 273
Login to reply to this post

Date: 5/5/12 0:48 AM

I would also underline in silk organza. I'm making a similar dress for my daughter. I am using Vogue 8766 views C and F. The strapless dress is duchess satin so it has sufficient body with just the crinoline I hope. Are you planning to bone and waist stay the strapless bodice?

candicer
star
candicer
Advanced
GA USA
Member since 9/26/07
Posts: 178
Login to reply to this post

Date: 5/5/12 8:53 AM

I, too, am making a similiar dress for a client! This ine is pretty much the same style; sweetheart neckline with full crinolined skirt, but the sheer overlay is in chiffon. The underlayer is a satin faced crepe , with absolutley no body. It will definetly need an underlining! I'm thinking it may need something even a little more than silk organza? Had she asked my opinion before purchasing the fabric I'd have suggested a different fabric. The other issue I'm having is that she wants a lightly beaded trim at the neckline and sleeves and hem.I'm really afraid that even a light trim will weigh down the chiffon.

kidmd
starstarstarstar
kidmd
Intermediate
UT USA
Member since 4/20/09
Posts: 97
Login to reply to this post

thumbsup 1 member likes this.
Date: 5/5/12 10:31 AM

Thanks everyone for the responses so far! My library system does have a copy of Bridal Couture. It's checked out, but I've placed a hold, so I should have it to peruse soon. Fortunately, the wedding is in August, so I still have some time. We're fitting the first muslin today.

It sounds like organza is the general consensus! I'm going to make some samples and play around with the fabrics today, since I'll have the bride here to render her opinion. Fortunately, I have some in my stash, so we can compare it. I noticed many of the RTW dresses she tried on were not underlined at all (gasp!), and had a narrow horsehair hem treatment that was only secured at the seamlines.

@tinflutterby - I dodged the boning bullet with this one. We aren't doing the strapless underbodice as she needs the dress to have sleeves. We are doing a full bodice with cap sleeves, with the lace sleeve extending to the elbow. I am considering a waist stay, since the skirt will have so many layers. I think I will see how heavy it ends up, and add a stay at the end if it is needed.

@candicer - That sounds lovely. I can see the challenges you'll have beading the chiffon though. I hope you post a picture if you can!

It seems like this will be a fairly popular style this wedding season. I was surprised that none of the bridal salons we visited had anything like this - even here in Utah, where dresses with sleeves are quite common. One salon actually had no dresses that were not floor length or longer. And shortening a dress with a lace overlay is not an insignificant alteration.

------
**Katie**
http://katiekadiddlehopper.blogspot.com

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Bridal and Formalwear Sewing >> Wedding dress skirt underlining

Merchants on PR
So Vintage Patterns
Thank You for Joining!
Deals!
Fitz Like a Glove Ironing Board Cover
Made In Australia
Deals!
SewBaby
Unique Sewing Patterns
Deals!
Budo Bear Designs
Asian Designs
Web site
Patterns from the Past
vintage sewing patterns
Deals!

Copyright © 2014 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.
Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Contact Us
Online Sewing Classes
Expert Sewing Techniques for Jackets
Fee: $49.00
(Regular $49.00)
Expert Sewing Techniques for Jackets

Online Sewing Classes
Clone Your Favorite Garment
Fee: $19.99
(Regular $49.00)
Clone Your Favorite Garment

Vogue Patterns 2882
photo
Review by Chris Kell... on 2/14/07
Read Review

You Sew Girl Hobo Pattern
You Sew Girl Hobo Pattern

Details
Price: $22.00
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Jennifer Stern The Perfectly Fitted Shirt by the Cup-Full Pattern ( Size 16-24(Cup B-DD) )
Jennifer Stern The Perfectly Fitted Shirt by the Cup-Full Pattern ( Size 16-24(Cup B-DD) )

Details
Price: $20.00
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Victory Chloe Dress Digital Pattern
Victory Chloe Dress Digital Pattern

Details
Price: $19.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Peek-A Boo Hangout Hoodie Digital Pattern ( Size 6 mo -10 years )
Peek-A Boo Hangout Hoodie Digital Pattern ( Size 6 mo -10 years )

Details
Price: $7.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Butterick 4560 Diaper Bag
photo
Review by ClioBklyn on 12/23/09
Read Review

McCalls 6563 Pattern ( Size XSM-SML-MED )
McCalls 6563 Pattern ( Size XSM-SML-MED )

Details
Price: $17.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Burda 9451 Pattern
Burda 9451 Pattern

Details
Price: $9.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Subscribe to PR Message Board Feed Subscribe to the PR Message Board Feed Add to My Yahoo! Subscribe at NewsGator Online Subscribe at Bloglines Add to MyMSN