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Forum > Fitting Woes > Unusual short torso adjustments ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Unusual short torso adjustments
MsKatieKat
MsKatieKat
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Date: 5/9/12 0:05 AM

Hi All!

I have a 13" neck to waist center back measurement. I realized after sewing at least 3 failed dresses (muslins of 3 different types of dresses), that my main adjustment is in the torso. Because I do not yet have a dress form custom to my measurements and I do not have a sewing buddy, I am unable to make any near accurate adjustments.

The problem I find is that most of the length adjustments I had to make were above the bust/apex. I find that if I raise the shoulders (mostly at least 2.5 inches), the back fits a lot more smoothly.

If I were to make adjustments to my pattern above the bustline, where should I divide the pattern piece? Do I just raise the lower piece by 2.5 inches and true it?

JTink
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JTink
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In reply to MsKatieKat <<


Date: 5/9/12 8:45 AM

MsKatie, I'm hoping someone else will chime in on this. Do you have to raise the waist as well? I have to adjust in both areas. When making the petite adjustment above the bust, fold out a pleat from center armhole, across the chest.

If you have Fit For Real People, it shows you how to do this adjustment.

Tizmehr
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Date: 5/9/12 9:20 AM

It sounds like you have square shoulders like me. I need to adjust the shoulder height but still need to shorten the back waist length. move the entire armhole up first by making an L shaped slash on the pattern, move the armhole up and true the shoulder seam. Now for the back waist adjustment. If you make your adjustment in the armhole area, you'll need to adjust your sleeve as well. But, do you have really skinny arms as well? If not, do your adjustment within the side seam, above the bust. Definitely make the adjustment and true up the seamline but don't forget to make sure that both front and back side seams are still the same length as each other.

clothingengineer
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Date: 5/9/12 2:59 PM

I do what JTink does and just fold out a pleat in the middle of the shoulders and bust (don't forget the sleeve too!). Depending on the style I will fold it out in a higher or lower section. I usually remove 1/2-1". It surprised me when I made this adjustment since I never had an issue with too much fabric puddling around the waist like some other members. Instead it would create horizontal folds above my bust and upper back instead, necklines would feel too low, and the bust shaping wasn't in the right place.

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Elizabeth made this
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Elizabeth made this  Friend of PR
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Date: 5/11/12 9:08 AM

I make a horizontal fold usually 1/2", sometimes 3/4" in the armscye area (I shoot for 4" down from the edge of the shoulder/top of the sleeve because there's less trueing that I have to do later). For me, I discovered that I really needed to do this because I noticed that the bottoms of armscyes always came below my bra-line on the sides, and I noticed that with sleeves in, my mobility was limited because of the low armscye. The kicker though shows up in t-shirts. After wearing them, a little 1/2" horizontal fold will appear above the bust about 4" down from the shoulder edge in front and back...my body just doesn't have or need that extra length. Give it a try--it's a subtle alteration, but it makes a world of difference in fit.

I'll add that I used to raise everything up before I discovered the fold out alteration, and I found out that I didn't have to make such a drastic alteration. I still have to take some out of the waist area or at the bottom of the hem, but again that simple alteration helps more than I thought it would.

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mhk3boys
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mhk3boys
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Date: 5/12/12 11:32 AM

I found out the hard way that a fold is 1/2 of what you are shortening. Like, I shorten 1" from shoulder to bust. I either draw a line, cut across the line and move up or down 1" or I would make a 1/2" fold. If you already knew this, disregard! I will maybe try to post a pic. I have a 13" BWL also. I shorten 1" from shoulder to bust and 1" shorten the waist.


-- Edited on 5/12/12 11:44 AM --Front alterations
-- Edited on 5/12/12 11:50 AM --

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Relax, don't get your elastic all twisted up in your waistband!
Hell hath no fury for the poor soul that sews an ill-fitting garment! Thank God for Surefitdesigns.com!

lincognito
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In reply to mhk3boys <<


Date: 5/15/12 1:36 PM

I am relatively new to sewing and have discovered that this is an issue for me as well. I made a knit tshirt in two different sizes and neither fit. The first seemed too small and very tight across the bust/shoulders, so I went up a size. Now it seems very big, but still pulls across the shoulders. The shirt naturally seems to want to sit quite a bit higher on my torso, so I figured I'd need to either bring it up at the shoulder (but how to alter the sleeves and the neckline?!) or take a wedge out of the upper bust (seems much easier).

All that to say, my question really is: Will I have to make this adjustment to EVERY top pattern I make? Is this something I should do automatically? I'm so frustrated with sewing at this point because it seems like I will have to make a practice or muslin version of everything, even the simplist of shirts (ie The Sorbetto, which also has a mountain of fitting problems for me). :(
-- Edited on 5/15/12 1:37 PM --

Edited to add: Oops - sorry! This is not necessarily a response to the post above me, but just to add to the thread in general. New to this forum :)
-- Edited on 5/15/12 1:38 PM --

mhk3boys
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mhk3boys
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In reply to lincognito <<


Date: 5/17/12 12:58 PM

Heehee, I've done that before The answer is yes, I have to shorten every shirt pattern this way. Some need less shortening but they all have to be shortened.

Also I need to find a better pic of my petite alts!

------
Relax, don't get your elastic all twisted up in your waistband!
Hell hath no fury for the poor soul that sews an ill-fitting garment! Thank God for Surefitdesigns.com!

KathySews
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Date: 5/17/12 5:42 PM

If you do not own the book 'Fit For Real People' I highly recommend it and no I do not own stock in the company I just seem to recommend the book to everyone.

I shorten the upper body and also near the waist on nearly everything also....then do a full bust adjustment, often including lowering the bust point. You do get to the point where you kind of know what adjustments you will need and then it is not so overwhelming.

Hang in there

lincognito
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Date: 5/21/12 9:13 PM

Thanks everyone! I think (from what I've been reading) that I have both a low bust and square shoulders, so will have to start experimenting with some pattern adjustments and see how it goes!

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