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Forum > Fitting Woes > Drag lines across my hips, plus funky bank wrinkling: New Look 6067 ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Drag lines across my hips, plus funky bank wrinkling: New Look 6067
auragone
auragone
Member since 3/6/09
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Subject: Drag lines across my hips, plus funky back wrinkling: New Look 6067 Date: 5/9/12 11:18 PM

Hello! I made a proper muslin (with facings and everything, hoping this muslin would be wearable) of New Look 6067 and definitely need some advice on fit. Help! Not very good with fitting yet. I'd really like to make this dress up in a lovely silk crepe (underlined in habotai) and want this to be great, not just good enough.

I almost always lower the waistline of bodices, as I'm short/high-waisted while tall, and adjust for a swayback. I did that here, and might have been a touch too aggressive on the swayback (and I definitely need to add length to the back hem). I know I need a little width across the back (pit to pit) and in the future I need to suck it up and learn an FBA. This one is passable.

But my key questions have to do with what the h is going on the back of the dress.
1) I have pull lines across my hips and weird puckering along the CB seam. Does this mean I need more room across my bum to release those drag lines? I have narrow hips so usually I cut half size lower on the back. I like the fit of the front skirt.
2) The pic of my back shows a bunch of weird wrinkling all over my back from my spare tire and up; in other photos the wrinkling is much less pronounced, so I don't know if it was just me standing as still and straight as possible for the photos. Do I need less length in the back?

Pics for you:

Front
Side
Bad bathroom pic of back
Back
-- Edited on 5/9/12 11:24 PM --
-- Edited on 5/10/12 0:17 AM --

tigergirl
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Date: 5/10/12 8:22 AM

It looks to me as though it's a bit tight at the waist in the back, almost as if the graduation of waist to hip is too low and sharp if you know what I mean. So I think you need a bit more room just above your bum so that the fabric can fall.
I'd agree with your guess of too much length in the back as well, but not a heck of a lot.
I'm sure you'll get much more helpful (and understandable) replies

------
Brother BM-2600
Janome 693
Lumina Overlocker (Serger)
http://tigergirladventures.blogspot.com/

Klutzy
Klutzy
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Massachusetts USA
Member since 10/11/06
Posts: 67
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Date: 5/10/12 12:36 PM

Wow, it looks great in the front! You did a nice job overall. I can see that the side seam is a bit crooked at the hip, but I don't know whether that is the cause or the result of the wrinkles. Since I can't find a buddy, I guess I'll be trying this alone soon I've been watching Peggy Sagers' fitting videos and am learning a lot. Maybe they'd help you. Every day one or two are removed and others added; the Sheath Dress episode is on there today. http://www.silhouettepatterns.com/html/media/livestreamchannel/index_replays.htm

SewJill
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In reply to auragone <<


Date: 5/10/12 4:13 PM

Quote: auragone
Hello! I made a proper muslin (with facings and everything, hoping this muslin would be wearable) of New Look 6067 and definitely need some advice on fit. Help! Not very good with fitting yet. I'd really like to make this dress up in a lovely silk crepe (underlined in habotai) and want this to be great, not just good enough.



I almost always lower the waistline of bodices, as I'm short/high-waisted while tall, and adjust for a swayback. I did that here, and might have been a touch too aggressive on the swayback (and I definitely need to add length to the back hem). I know I need a little width across the back (pit to pit) and in the future I need to suck it up and learn an FBA. This one is passable.



But my key questions have to do with what the h is going on the back of the dress.

1) I have pull lines across my hips and weird puckering along the CB seam. Does this mean I need more room across my bum to release those drag lines? I have narrow hips so usually I cut half size lower on the back. I like the fit of the front skirt.

2) The pic of my back shows a bunch of weird wrinkling all over my back from my spare tire and up; in other photos the wrinkling is much less pronounced, so I don't know if it was just me standing as still and straight as possible for the photos. Do I need less length in the back?



Pics for you:



Front

Side

Bad bathroom pic of back

Back

-- Edited on 5/9/12 11:24 PM --
-- Edited on 5/10/12 0:17 AM --

I love the dress!!! the front looks lovely. Now, on to the back. I think the darts on the skirt are either too long going down your bum or the wrong shape dart. Possibly the darts on the bodice too need to be let out a bit, but only at the waist. and I think that the bodice back is a little long!

I need to start making muslins! I am off to search for an answer to my problem.

Hope you figure it out!

------
~~Jill~~
Trying to Sew Everyday!

I sew with an Innovis 2000. It rocks the Fabric

CM_Sews
CM_Sews
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California USA
Member since 9/18/04
Posts: 1811
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Date: 5/10/12 4:33 PM

The photo of the side seam shows that seam being pulled out of alignment towards that back of the dress. To me that says that there is not enough fabric in the back, so the back of the skirt is "stealing" fabric from the front of the skirt.

Also in that photo, you can see a wrinkle on the back that starts near the waistline and "points" to the top curve of your tush (I'm not sure what the right word is to use here.) I think those are part of the "funky back wrinkling" you see in the photo of the back of the dress.

To me, this says that there's not enough fabric to adequately cover your backside so that the fabric hangs straight from the waistline, with wearing ease included (eventually, you'll want to sit down while you're wearing this dress, yes?). I think you need more fabric width in the back.

HOW to accomplish that (add width in the front, or to the back or to both the front and the back), I leave to someone more experienced in fitting.

CMC

auragone
auragone
Member since 3/6/09
Posts: 41
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In reply to CM_Sews <<


Date: 5/10/12 10:12 PM

Thanks everyone! I think what I'm going to do is take all your advice and:
1) Take a horizontal fold out of the back bodice
2. Shorten the darts a touch to release them a bit
3. Add width to the back by cutting from hem to the waistline, leaving a hinge, and filling in with some tissue.

It's weird, aside from minor stuff the front is great. The back is nuts, though!

Thanks again!

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