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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Folding out the extra

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Folding out the extra
JTink
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JTink
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Date: 5/13/12 12:51 PM

I'm working on Butterick 5538(Connie Crawford) View C with View A sleeves. Super simple, basic blouse.

While tissue fitting, I discovered that making the petite adjustment in the area above the bust, also brings up the waist line(I guess this is a "duh" moment) I generally petite fold an inch out of length out of the waist, so this is like killing two birds with one stone.

This is my first time doing this adjustment all the way across the upper bust (usually just at the very center front is all I would do, to bring up the neck line). I'm noticing that all my armholes are a bit too low, that's why I'm trying the upper bust petite on this blouse.

My question: Since the front waistline is alread up an inch, due to the upper bust adjustment, how do I work with the back? Do I make the same ajustment all the way across the upper back? It won't work if I do the waist petite on the back, because the side seams won't meet.

Miss Fairchild
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In reply to JTink <<


Date: 5/13/12 1:25 PM

I've been watching a lot of Peggy Sagers webcasts from her website, and I believe she says you should make the change all around, in the same spot. But I'm curious to see if someone else chimes in here.

But this also brings up a question: If your armholes are too low, why not raise them at the underarm, instead of across the bustline? That's what I do, especially as a result of watching the webcasts. I raise them about 1" at the side seam, on both the front and back pieces, then taper into the regular armhole near the notches.

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JTink
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JTink
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In reply to Miss Fairchild <<
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Date: 5/13/12 1:50 PM

Miss Fairchild, thank you for your reply. In the past, I have raised my armholes in the manner you suggest.
I really need to raise the entire front area, so I figured instead of pinching at the center front, I would try taking it all the way across this time. I just finished pleating up the back and altering the sleeve too. Might as well give it a try.

This poor pattern looks like an engineering project! I had to do narrow shoulder adjustment and an FBA on it too. But that's pretty typical.

Miss Fairchild
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Date: 5/13/12 8:19 PM

My "yellow flag" in this is why you're taking a tuck above the bustline. Only because when working with a blouse pattern recently, I thought I would take a lengthen/shorten tuck above the bustline to see what it would do. Yuck! Horrors! It changed the shape of the armhole! Yet when I made the alteration to the L/S line below the bust, (and then raised the armhole at the sideseam) it changed the fit dramatically. Maybe because of the bust itself?

My problem is that I ALWAYS have to take up a bit in the front; mostly because my back is so curved forward and my shoulders roll forward--over 5/8"-- that my front is shadowed (if you can get the picture). I also have to do a narrow shoulder adjustment as my shoulders are about 1" shorter than average. And for years, I was taking a tuck above the bustline and getting some strange results. And then on top of that, there was a lot of work I had to do, such as change the shape of the armhole, add to the back the amount I took off the front, and a plethora of alterations that I never was happy with. It was when I saw Peggy's webcasts did it make sense to raise the armhole at the side seam. That way, the curve of the armhole remained and I had one small alteration that was simple to do.

But being as you are in the muslin stage, and are trying this out, press on! I'm curious to see how it turns out!
-- Edited on 5/13/12 8:20 PM --

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Ann B.
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Date: 5/13/12 11:15 PM

Very interesting. I am making Peggy Sagers sheath dress right now and had to take a tuck across the front upper chest . In Peggy speak I had the right circumference and depth, but too much length.

I did have to reshape the shoulder as I am making this sleeveless and the pattern is drafted for a 1" shoulder pad. I also had to reshape the armhole as it was way to large and deep for a sleeveless dress. This might be why the fit was thrown off. It worked in the muslin, but the final dress is still 2 sewing sessions from completion.

I did not trace this pattern, if I want to make a sleeved version I'll probably have to purchase another pattern. There is not much left of the original, but I would not mind if this pattern makes a nice basic "uniform" for me. Just a note to anyone who makes this, the draft is for a very curvy hip. I'm pretty curvy and had to straighten that hip curve right out.

JTink
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JTink
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Date: 5/14/12 9:51 AM

Well I just finished putting the sleeves in this blouse. What a mess! The back is shorter than the front. Not so much because of the FBA, but because of the tuck I took out across the back. That tuck did take away some of the extra I always have at the back mid-armhole. But I guess I should have added it back to the length below the waist line. Also, making the above bust tuck, raised the bust point...not good. I usually make all my lengthing/shortening adjustments before doing the FBA. I didn't do that with those tucks. If I had, there might have been a difference.

I'm going to have to do a bit of research on Connie Crawford's patterns. This entire shirt is huge! Generally I cut a 10 in the neck/shoulders and morph to a 12/14 at the bust/waist/hip. I had cut it on a medium and did the 1 inch FBA. She uses a lot of ease in her patterns. I guess I'm seeing myself bigger than I actually am. I seem to do that.

I have now gone back to the pattern and let out the upper bust tucks, all the way around, and taken up the inch in my usual waist petite. I raised the armholes, making the same alteration to the sleeve and cut the entire pattern down to the extra small! I might do a Cheater FBA and only add a little bit extra to the Princess seams. I can't believe I've spent 3 days working on this simple blouse. But because it is simple, I thought I would take the opportunity to try some of these different alterations. I might recut another blouse from it in the next day or two. But because it is just a "plain old blouse" I might put it off and work on something with a bit of pretty in it

EleanorSews
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EleanorSews  Friend of PR
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Date: 5/14/12 10:03 AM

Well, I'm one of those who has to take out length between the armhole and shoulder area ~ 3/8" to be exact. Not a lot but it does make a difference.

I take that amount out all the way around. Then in the back between the tuck and the should I usually pinch out a scant 1/4" especially if it is sleeveless. That gets rid of this gappy thing that happens at the armhole.

Sometimes the tuck means I need to allow a little more length under the armhole. Depends on the style. To me, it's worth redrawing the armhole and adjust ing the sleeve if need be because the fit is nicer. In general, my alterations across the armhole area have not created any major fit issues with the sleeve though.

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JTink
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JTink
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In reply to EleanorSews <<


Date: 5/14/12 10:14 AM

Hi Eleanor. I was delighted that the sleeve fit so well. It's really the only thing about the blouse that worked Do you do an FBA? If so, do you take out the above bust tucks, before you do the FBA? Will this allow the bust point to stay where I need it?

I think my only real problem with the above bust adjustment, is it raises the bust point. One reason I want to get this adjustment working, I tend to get a lot of Pouf at the top of my princess seems between the shoulder and top of my bust. I have to carve out a lot of material after I make the garment and it can throw every thing off kilter.

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