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Tank Top fitting
Too much fabric in front armhole
allycovey
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allycovey  Friend of PR
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Date: 5/14/12 2:52 PM

I have mentioned in a couple other threads making woven tank tops this weekend. One of the problems I never could get out. I did FBA, rounded back adjustment and I added three inches to the length at the waist. The problem I am having is too much fabric in the front armhole. I ended up taking a dart from the front point curving under the arm to the bust point. after this adjustment that I know is wrong the tops fit me perfect. To try and fit it I cut a slash in the place I put the dart and overlapped the pattern and the slashed to the side til the pattern layed flat again and added that amount to the dart. Well I don't know what I did wrong but the next tank top I made after that still had too much fabric in the same place in the same amount I once again put in a two darts, one normal and one going from bust to arm hole.
Anybody know what I am doing wrong?

tinflutterby
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Date: 5/15/12 0:48 AM

Try slashing to the bottom to flatten the pattern instead of the side and then truing the side seam. I will admit that some of us will require a dart after a FBA but is should be in the traditional side position. Also be sure you are stabilizing the arm hole curve. That is on the bias and will stretch if you are not careful. Good luck

lca
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Date: 5/16/12 2:40 PM

Sometimes it is the shoulder slope creating the dart. Lift it up and see if that helps.

CM_Sews
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Date: 5/16/12 3:18 PM

Fantastic Fit for Every Body, Gale Griff Hazen **

There's an alteration in this book for exactly this problem. Gale Hazen calls it the "HookEdo". It's on pages 182-185. You may be able to read some of it using Amazon's "look inside" feature. (Try searching for "tank" or "hookEdo".) The book is out of print, but you can buy used copies for as little as 9 cents (plus $3.99 shipping = $4.08).

Lisa Laree talks about the HookEdo (and summarizes) in the 5/06/05 update in this review: Lisa Laree review.

I haven't tried this alteration myself, but it addresses the problem you describe.

CMC
**This was the book that really explained the basic concepts and goals of garment fitting in a way that made sense to me. It is not the "Ultimate Fitting Book" but I find it a useful addition to my sewing library.

ryan's mom
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Date: 5/23/12 1:34 PM

The HookEdo is also covered in FFRP. The version I have shows "Deborah" having that problem after fitting the bust. It requires sliding the front pattern shoulder seam inward, cutting off the excess at the neck, then filling in the front armhole edge of the shoulder seam with tissue.

I've done it. It works, and creates a curvier armhole and eliminates the armhole gap.

------
Big 4 Pattern size 12, RTW bottom: 6, RTW jacket 8, RTW top (no size fits me well!)
Measurements: 34 HB/36 FB (34C bra)/27.5/36 (and working hard to keep it that way.)
Machines: Sewing: Elna 760, vintage Kenmore Model 33 (1967), Janome Gem Gold 3, Singer Model 99, Singer 221/Featherweight. Sergers: Babylock Imagine and Babylock Enlighten. Embroidery Only: Janome 300E. Embroidery/Sewing Combo: Brother Dream machine. Coverstitch: Babylock BLCS. Straight Stitch: Janome 1600P.

If you think your sewing is better than everyone else's around here, get out of my way b****. I hate sewing snobs.

My blog: www.phatchickdesigns.blogspot.com

AdaH
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In reply to allycovey <<


Date: 5/23/12 2:22 PM

Can you post a picture? If you slashed and overlapped the pattern the amount you had pinched in the muslin or tissue when fitting then you did the correct alteration. Did you overlap the whole amount you pinched up when fitting? Sometimes if I am not paying attention I will measure the amount I pinched up, example 1/4" then when I am doing the overlapping I will over lap the 1/4" instead of the 1/2" I should have overlapped.

------
Ada

allycovey
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allycovey  Friend of PR
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In reply to AdaH <<


Date: 5/23/12 2:32 PM

Oh that was it I bet I didn't over lap enough I am going to try that alteration again. This poor pattern peice is looking like Frankenstein.

Rhoda K
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Date: 6/17/12 10:07 AM

Bump.

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