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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > making a bolero/short jacket from a reg jacket pattern

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making a bolero/short jacket from a reg jacket pattern
Do I need to change the armscye?
guillorypr
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guillorypr
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Date: 5/14/12 10:36 PM

So...I want to make a bomber jacket bolero. I found a pattern that would work with some design alteration. That part was...easy. The hard part I am having now is in the armscye. I made a mockup, it fit okay except that when I tried it on, my friend says that she doesn't like the way the whole jacket moes up when I move my arm. Other than that, the jacket fits fine. I say the jacket is going to have a lot of movement because the side seam is only about 4 inches long, there isn't a lot of fabric there so the fabric movement will seem larger because there is less of it. Does that make sense?

She has linebacker shoulders, and she is complaining the armscye is too tight. This isn't a fitting problem I have and I don't really know how to correct it. The pattern is a princess seam. Do I just "scoop" out from the armscye and add in the sleeve cap?

THANKS!!!

Paulette

stirwatersblue
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stirwatersblue
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Date: 5/16/12 5:08 PM

Paulette, I'm bumping this up b/c I'm curious about the responses you might get!

First, though--I was not 100% clear on the problem, mainly b/c I couldn't tell if you were making this jacket for yourself or for your friend (or one of each, maybe?). It sounds like you have different fitting issues, so the solution might be different for each of you.

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Miss Fairchild
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In reply to guillorypr <<


Date: 5/16/12 9:00 PM

The bolero jackets of old, and I'm talking 1970's, had wide backs to accommodate the broadness of the shoulders when one lifted her arms. I know this because I made many of this type back then. Your question about the armscye seems to tell me the armscye is too small and then the jacket raises up really high; it will still do this no matter what length of jacket you are making.

So I'm not sure what your question is or as to who will be wearing the jacket as you switch back and forth. Can you post a picture of the pattern?

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guillorypr
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Date: 5/16/12 10:55 PM

here is the link to the pattern



McCalls 6246

I'm cropping it even shorter than the shortest view.

I am making two of these, one for me, one for a friend. I am happy with the overall fit, however when my friend looks at it, she says there is too much movement when I raise my arms. The sleeve was still fine, no overall tightness, etc.

When she tries it on, the armscye is def too small, which I can fix, but she wants a huge adjustment because she thinks there shouldn't be so much movement in the garment.

I only have 2 bolero's, there are both knit and they seem to also move quite a bit when I lift my arms. I say it is an effect of the short jacket. So, if I widen the back, that will create more room in the jacket? Won't it just get all bunchy in the back or we only talking like another inch?
-- Edited on 5/16/12 10:56 PM --

Miss Fairchild
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In reply to guillorypr <<


Date: 5/17/12 2:50 AM

Ahah! this explains things. Boleros can hike up, but only a little bit. There will be a little movement because there's nothing weighting it down below the hips; the hipline also acts as an anchor to keep the jacket down. On your pattern, this will hike up more because the back has a yoke, and not much fullness. The boleros I made "way back when" had a CB seam and there was more fullness toward the shoulder blades than the bottom. The CB seam looked like one where someone altered it for a high round back.

As to changing the armscye on her jacket, find an armscye size she is happy with and use that. At first I thought you were making a bolero from a long jacket, and that can work, but you still need to add a little to the back.

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"Play the cards you are dealt, but choose who is sitting at the table"..AARP magazine

SEE MY ETSY SHOP HERE: http://www.etsy.com/shop/AuntMaymesAttic
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