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Forum > Patterns and Notions > Burda, I always end up frustrated ( Moderated by Sharon1952)

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Burda, I always end up frustrated
I've tried Burda 5 times, and it always was disastrous
PhaVic
PhaVic
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Date: 5/17/12 10:09 AM

Am I the only one ? I often buy the magazine. Over the past 3 years, I've tried 5 patterns that were labelled easy. The reviews here were always good ; yet, it always turned so bad that I never finished the garments. I dutifully check the measurements in the pattern, add the sa, sew super slow, and by the book, and still : disaster (notches that don't align, armhole/sleeves). Yet, with Butterick/Simplicity, I never encounter such problems, the garment is too big or too small, but not "skewed" as they are when I try a Burda pattern. Is it because of the instructions (I always follow intructions even for simple steps) ?
Is it a problem that occurs with the patterns from the magazine and not from the catalog ? Please share your experience. I like so many of their patterns and would like to "graduate" with Burda at last.

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LynnRowe
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Date: 5/17/12 10:57 AM

IMO, the trick is to take ONE pattern you really like...and sew it up 10 times.

By the 10th time, you will have perfection.

Ok you may not need a full 10 times...but go in with that mind set and you may strike it lucky after only a couple.

Hopping from pattern to pattern rarely ends up with a perfect piece. Other than most knit tops, which I can usually get as I want the first time out (but not always!), I generally plan on a muslin taking me at least 3-4 times "mark it tweak it rip it apart and resew it" before it comes close to what I want the final garment to be. And then the final garment will require 2 or 3 tweakings after that.

You just aren't going to find The Lucky Pattern; you need to concentrate on one you like, and make it The Perfect Pattern for you.

-- Edited on 5/17/12 10:58 AM --

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NhiHuynh
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Date: 5/17/12 11:00 AM

PhaVic sorry to hear all the problems you've been having. Here are some things to look into.

The notches not aligning: have you walked the pattern to make sure the pattern pattern is lining up correct at the sewing line. In tracing and/or adding the seam allowances there are many things that can go wrong. Since you're not having problems with Butterick/Simplicity this tells me it's not a physical sewing problem but probably in the pattern. Also check that you have the right pieces. If the pattern is correct, check your cutting. Is the fabric matching the pattern? Maybe the fabric moved while you were cutting. Just double check.

Garment skewing: I'm not exactly sure what you mean by the garment is skewed. I'm assuming this has to do with notches not aligning etc. Somehow you got the pieces of fabric sewn together but probably not at the right places. If the pattern and cutting is correct I don't think you should have skewing. You may have sizing or fit problems but that's a whole other issue.

If you still have your traced pattern and fabric double check these things on them. If you've already trashed them, just do it on your next pattern.

If you like the styles I wouldn't give up. There's a reason why they have so many subscribers who pay big $ to get their magazines. If the patterns where bad, people would stop subscribing and you would definitely hear it here on PR.

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PhaVic
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Date: 5/17/12 11:27 AM

...you may be right, maybe it's because of the way I add the SA. The only patterns where I have to add the SA are the japanese, but their dress/tops are more shapeless.
When I say the fit is skewed, I mean you can see the garment is neither too big nor to small, but it is not as it should be, it's looks "crooked" on me.

Ok, maybe I'll give it another try with the next issue (I always like the June issue) !

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Always a novice

jannw
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Date: 5/17/12 11:28 AM

You might want to check your pattern tracings. I find many magazine patterns difficult to read. Are you getting a size 38 on one side and a 40 on the other, for example. What helps me is going over the lines with a flourescent highliter before I trace. That way, when I come to an intersection of lines, I know which I should follow.

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Everyone who sews seriously has a stockpile of fabrics, because it is natural to purchase more than can be sewn in any one season" Singer, Timesaving Sewing, 1987

quathy
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Date: 5/17/12 11:31 AM

If you're sewing from the magazine, don't you have to add the seam allowances? I assume you're doing that, but if you weren't, it would explain why things aren't lining up. Another thing I've found tricky with the magazines is that they don't always use the same kind of line to trace.

Maybe if you post which pattern you're using, you'll get some more advice. I haven't used a Burda mag in a few years.

PhaVic
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In reply to quathy <<


Date: 5/17/12 12:07 PM

The last time I tried was in december 2010, and it was :
- the Kimono Jacket Burdastyle magazine 12-2007-125 with the
- Trousers 12-2007-127B.
Truthfully, I never finished the pants, I was so disappointed with the jacket (since then, its fabric has been recycled so no picture of the mess).
I so need cute pyjamas !

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Always a novice

TriMama
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Date: 5/17/12 12:19 PM

I find Burda magazine patterns very hard to trace accurately. The only way I can manage is to trace onto something that's completely transparent. I use either clear plastic painter's drop cloth or clear cellophane from the wrapping paper section of the dollar store. It's that clear plastic that's used to wrap gift baskets. I like the cellophane best, because it doesn't stretch the way a softer plastic will.

Mostly though, I stick to Ottobre. Easier to trace, reliable sizing and excellent instructions.

squirrellypoo
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Date: 5/17/12 12:23 PM

I've probably made about 50 Burda magazine patterns and I think I've had maybe 2 duds in that time.

Edit to add: I trace my magazine patterns with brown paper and a serrated tracing wheel. Here's my tutorial on how to trace a pattern. If you're having problems "seeing" through tracing paper then this approach might be better for you.

If you're not used to tracing, my gut feeling is that you've made mistakes while tracing the pattern pieces - it's really easy to do if you're not paying attention. I've never heard of Burda's notches not matching - they're famous for their excellent drafting!

I'd also highly recommend investing in seam allowance guide which allows you to cut really accurate seam allowances on your fabric pieces. I was given one a few months ago and it's quickly become a Must Have for me.

And just for a bit of perspective, I had to chuckle that you have problems with Burda but Butterick and Simplicity work well for you - I'm the exact opposite: the Big Four (except Vogue) tend to be badly drafted, ill-fitting, and shapeless in my experience, not to mention super expensive, so I've just stopped buying them. It does solve a problem to just sew what works for you and sod the others! ;)
-- Edited on 5/17/12 12:25 PM --

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PhaVic
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Date: 5/17/12 12:24 PM

...and you'll see that it was piece of cake for everybody but me, so I felt pretty stupid afterwards. When I have some time in september, I'll try this pattern again.
The other patterns were even older (dress from april 2003, from june 2004 if I remember rightly) and a top from 2 years ago.

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Always a novice

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