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Forum > Fabrics and more... > what should I use to line my silk charmeuse dress? ( Moderated by CynthiaSue)

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what should I use to line my silk charmeuse dress?
advice, please!
Courtney Ostaff
Courtney Ostaff
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Date: 5/24/12 8:08 PM

So I'm making this dress. In this silk

And I know I'll need to line it, so it doesn't stick to my hot, sweaty body in heat of the day at my brother's wedding. :cry:

So, please, ladies, what should I use?
-- Edited on 5/24/12 8:08 PM --

Pinkytoo
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In reply to Courtney Ostaff <<


Date: 5/24/12 8:17 PM

I haven't found that silk charmeuse sticks. It's totally unlike the polyester charmeuse that is a cheap imitation!

Maybe it's just me, but lining silk charmeuse seems counterintuitive...any other opinions out there??

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Courtney Ostaff
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Date: 5/24/12 8:19 PM

But sweaty? 'Cause it's an outdoor wedding at the end of August in the heat of the day...it's like they specifically designed it for guest suffering!

Also, I have some lumps and bumps I'd rather it didn't stick to.

And, the pattern calls for the bodice to be lined, soooo.....

KathySews
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Date: 5/24/12 8:25 PM

The only thing I can think of is more silk. Polyester anything will be horrible.

Sew4Fun
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In reply to Courtney Ostaff <<
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Date: 5/24/12 8:42 PM

Ok I'm just thinking out loud here and not actually recommending this.

Given how structured the bodice is, I'm wondering if you could use a cotton batiste to line the bodice? Personally I haven't tried this combination so take this for what's it's worth. You could then use a more traditional lining for the skirt.

As I said just thinking out loud. Usually I wouldn't pair a silk charmeuse with a structured pattern like this so I don't have any first hand experience to pass on.

-- Edited on 5/24/12 8:45 PM --

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Courtney Ostaff
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Date: 5/24/12 8:44 PM

I'm digging underlining with cotton batiste or "habotai" AKA "china silk". It seems to be a fairly popular option here on PR for silk charmeuse. Cotton batiste would be cheap....

diane s
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Date: 5/24/12 8:51 PM

silk habotai aka (china silk) or cotton batiste, I would only line the bodice.. and evaluate how the skirt looks....if the skirt was clingy, I would do a drop lining ( a simple lining that wouldn't include the pleats) or wear a slip, that could be made from the same fabric as the bodice lining

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Date: 5/24/12 8:52 PM

The nice thing about silk is that it breathes! And silk charmeuse doesn't usually cling in an unattractive way. Do you really need to line the dress? It would be cooler not to line it. Could you just face the appropriate areas with a bit of the charmeuse?

I've used Bemberg Ambiance rayon lining for my last couple summer silk dresses because it breathes, too.

Cotton might be a good underlining, but I think it would defeat the nice drape and movement of the silk charmeuse to use a cotton batiste. Cotton is a lot stiffer than most silks.

HTH

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Date: 5/24/12 9:21 PM

Quote:
Cotton might be a good underlining, but I think it would defeat the nice drape and movement of the silk charmeuse to use a cotton batiste. Cotton is a lot stiffer than most silks.

Agreed. It wouldn't be my usual combination of fabrics either because of the difference in drape.

Courtney you have put so much time and effort into this pattern already, and have done such a good job thus far!! :hugs: My concern though is so far all your muslins/trials have been using fabrics with some body. Even the rayon challis has some body and holds a crisp pleat. The charmeuse will be very different. It's so buttery soft.

The structured bodice of this particular pattern IMHO requires a fabric with some body. My concern is that charmeuse will be too drapey for such a style on it's own. I'm thinking the batiste may give the required body (and offer some sweat protection ), but on the other hand are the two fabrics too different? It's a hard one, it really is! I have no answer except proceed with a lot of caution and test, test, test. I wish I could help more.

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dresscode

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Date: 5/24/12 9:59 PM

I would underline with crepe de Chine. Or, line if that is all that is needed. I think bodices look smoother when underlined.

Susan Khalje teaches using crepe de Chine for underling soft fabrics.

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