Member since 12/16/05
Skill: Advanced Beginner
Date: 5/28/12 1:47 PM
I made up a pair of pants using McCalls 6403. A friend suggested that I take a dart in the back to take up the drag lines. She suggested I take it below the crotch line starting at the inseam and tapering to nothing at the side. I can find the crotch line on the back pattern piece but it is not marked on the front piece. I'm assuming I need to take this dart on both the front and back? She said I do not have the FLAT backside, I just need to take up some of the bagginess.
does anyone have any experience with this that they could share with me? How much to take in and how do I find the crotch line on the front pattern piece? It seems that the crotch line marked on the back in a little lower than the crotch point. Is that where I would find it on the front and then just draw a line? Once I make this adjustment, how do I make sure the grainline is still correct?
Member since 4/3/10
Date: 5/28/12 7:57 PM
Crotch line labeled
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Member since 8/24/02
Date: 5/28/12 8:10 PM
From what I can gather from your post, you said your friend said you needed a "dart in the back to take up the drag lines". This to me means you need a fisheye, or horizontal dart, at the crotch area. When you are looking at your muslin, that you have on, take a little tuck, just below your "cheeks", folding until it pulls up the excess, then pin it in place. Taper this amount out to the side seam.
As to "how much", every one is different. I have to take up about 1/2" in this area, depending on the pattern--sometimes it's more. As to the front, don't worry about it--it's just the back you are fixing. The front could be a "whole nother animal"..
IF you want more info, do a search for Debbie Cook's Fisheye Dart tip, here on PR
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