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Forum > Fitting Woes > Quest for Well-Fitting Darted T-Shirt ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Quest for Well-Fitting Darted T-Shirt
Fitting my full busted hourglass?
wendyrb
wendyrb  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/4/12 11:39 AM

I've taken 2 fitting classes with Sarah Veblen and am now in Understanding Knits. I've always accepted the poor fit in RTW knit tops- armhole gapes and drag lines to the side seam below the bust. For my figure type, I don't think I can rely on sewing a flat front pattern without any fitting darts or lines to get a smooth fit. Tell me if I'm wrong.

Here's some body info-
* I'm close to 5'4 inches with a longish torso and shortish legs.

* I'm 40-30-40 1/2 measurements. My bra is 36 DDD. I've recently lost over 20 pounds and am pretty close the the chart weight for my height. I'm 61, so gravity is evident- sigh.

* Big 4 patterns- my shoulder width is close to a size 12, bust size 18, waist and hip 16. I often use size 14 and adjust in for shoulders, plus a FBA and check hip ease.

Since I took Sarah's bust fitting class, I'm more willing to try a darted T-shirt. I've ordered several patterns with darts. Are any of you familiar with the ones listed below? If so, what is your experience with the fit?

The patterns are:
* Silhouette Ann's Top- It's got a French Dart and has the options of Cup Sizes in B, C, D. The styling is a cowl neckline.

* Vogue 8151 Today's Fit by Sandra Betzina-It has a side dart that angles up to the bust on both a plain pullover T and a Mock-Wrap T.

* Hot Patterns Plain and Simple Essential Shift Dress and Top- The top has a dart coming from the CF seam. The Shift has a French Dart.

* J. Stern Designs- The T-Shirt has a Yoke that looks like it comes within 2 inches of the bust point and incorporates fit.

* Besides these- any other good options?

I plan to get a sense on paper of each pattern's bust fit by comparing the fronts; I'll lay them on top of one another and see what's there. Most likely, I'll make quick toiles of each in the same inexpensive jersey to try on. That will tell me more.

After refining my knowledge of handling knits with Sarah, I want to find a useful pattern. My goal is many a well-made and well-fitting knit top. Thanks for any help you can share.

------
Always keep your words soft and sweet, just in case you have to eat them. Andy Rooney

Pfonzie- my honey Pfaff Creative Performance, Bernina 930 and 830, Evolution serger.

quathy
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quathy  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/4/12 12:40 PM

I liked Sarah's class, too. I took her advice on the darted tee, and they do work quite well!

Vogue 8536 has a small dart, but you can easily do a FBA if needed. It's been a while since I made this one, so I can't remember if I had to do one or not (I do a 2-3" FBA on most patterns). This one I think has you gather the dart at the side seam, instead of sewing the dart through the bodice. I think the effect is subtle, and doesn't scream out "DARTED TEE! LOOKY OVER HERE!" the way it might in a light color. I use this pattern on those huge free XXL men's tees that sometimes get passed out, as though we were all 6' tall big men, and alter my freebies into a flattering shape. I love the v-neck instructions on this pattern, too.

I also like Simplicity 4076 (the link says 2093, but it's really # 4076). The 'darts' on this pattern migrated to the center front neckline as gathers. This one is very flattering, and reviewed 200+ times here.

CM_Sews
CM_Sews
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Date: 6/4/12 12:58 PM

Have you looked at Pamela's Patterns?

The T-shirt patterns do have darts and you can find reviews on PR.

Pamela's Patterns reviews

CMC

JEF
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JEF  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/4/12 1:07 PM

I'm a pretty big fan of Silhouette patterns french darts. Actually, just a fan of french darts now that Silhouette patterns has introduced them to me!!

JEF

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"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." --Abraham Lincoln

portercs
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Date: 6/4/12 2:11 PM

Hi! I am currently taking Jennifer Stern's tee class (Pattern #0041) through Pattern Review. It is the best t-shirt I have ever made and Jennifer's videos are excellent. I think that the yoke pieces allow for easier alterations in order to get a custom fit. Good luck with whatever pattern you select!
Christie

wendyrb
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In reply to CM_Sews <<


Date: 6/4/12 3:23 PM

Thanks for reminding me of this one and the link- helpful. I've got the T-Shirt and forget to mention. I will include it in a separate post that includes another pattern with some bust fit.

------
Always keep your words soft and sweet, just in case you have to eat them. Andy Rooney

Pfonzie- my honey Pfaff Creative Performance, Bernina 930 and 830, Evolution serger.

wendyrb
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Subject: Quest for Well-Fitting Darted T-Shirt: 2 more Date: 6/4/12 3:26 PM

I realize I have 2 other patterns that could be likely candidates. Meanwhile, thank you all for your thoughts.

* Pamela's Patterns- The Perfect T- Shirt. She describes it as for a "real" woman (her words, not mine!) as follows. "Addresses the most common fitting issues we face- high round back, forward shoulder, full hip and bust, and a good fit through the shoulder and neck."

* Style Arc- Pleated Pia Top- I emailed Chloe because the pleats look angled toward the bust as if they are converted darts. Chloe says the pleats do incorporate bust fit.

I hope to find a few workhorse patterns that can be endlessly varied with fabrication and changing details.

------
Always keep your words soft and sweet, just in case you have to eat them. Andy Rooney

Pfonzie- my honey Pfaff Creative Performance, Bernina 930 and 830, Evolution serger.

Nancy K
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In reply to wendyrb <<


Date: 6/4/12 4:53 PM

You should take a look at Shams postings on how she fits her very large bust. She is not an hourglass, but what she does will work for those of us with hips. I was of the same opinion as you about bust darts and I have a tnt top with darts, it's an old Sandra Betzina, until I saw Shams's posting. Here's a link to links within her blog for her postings on fitting.
Communing with fabric
I used her method to alter a knit princess seam top. I have yet to use it with a t shirt.
-- Edited on 6/4/12 4:54 PM --

------
www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

Jane S
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In reply to wendyrb <<


Date: 6/4/12 5:28 PM

We're the same age and a year ago I took Pamela's class on her T shirt pattern and it's a dream. I reviewed the pattern and also wrote about it on my blog. I use other knit patterns (Jalie twist top, Simplicity 3678) with gathers as darts but even then I have to increase the pleats/gathers and I'm only a D cup. So glad that Sarah got you to accept the wisdom of darts in a nice fitting T. She really opened my eyes to my best fiting experiences about five years ago and my sewing has improved so much since then. Speaking of knit darts, today I'm working on Pamela's Patterns Perfect Tank Top which also has a side dart, like her T.

------
www.luckysewandsew.blogspot.com

wendyrb
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In reply to Nancy K <<


Date: 6/4/12 6:22 PM

Yes, thanks for the reminder; I did see that. Did you like the result on the princess line top you made? I'd also like to add that I get a lot from all your posts. Thanks for all that you share.

If I recall, Shams basically slices across the front pattern and spreads it to add an even amount of front length, say 1". It's a parallel insertion that goes across the bust area to the side seam. The back is unchanged and she stretches it to fit the larger front in the bust area. The front is NOT EASED in with little gathers to the back. The bust width comes from the pattern measurement and crosswise knit stretch. It seems to work and I'll give it a try.

From a former post of yours, I ordered a Sandra Betzina T with a dart. I'm classically trained in pattern making based in wovens. So, unconventional methods to stretch and squish darts away make me uneasy. However, Sham's methods are definitely worth sampling- they look good on her. I'm eager to learn!

------
Always keep your words soft and sweet, just in case you have to eat them. Andy Rooney

Pfonzie- my honey Pfaff Creative Performance, Bernina 930 and 830, Evolution serger.

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