Sewing Patterns, Pattern Review, Sewing Classes, Sewing Machines and Sewing Machine Reviews!
Platinum Sponsor: Stylish Fabric
Over 20,000 of high quality reorderable fabric

[SIGNUP - FREE Membership & 1 FREE Sewing Lesson ]
[Sewing Classes|Shopping Bag Your Shopping Bag|Login|Help]
Sewing Review and Pattern Reviews Sewing Knowledge Base Sewing Patterns Sewing Classes & Sewing Lessons Sewing Machine & Embroidery Machinery Sewing Message Boards Sewing merchants Blog Help/FAQ About Pattern Review
Enter your e-mail address:




Advanced Search
Tags
New to PR?
Sewing Machines
Compare Sewing Machines
Sewing Machine & Serger Reviews
Embroidery Machines
Sewing Reviews
Sewing Patterns
Review Gallery
Sewing Books
Sewing Supplies
Sewing Websites
Sewing Stores
Sewing Class Reviews
Sewing Expo Reviews
Sewing Tips & Techniques
Sewing Podcasts
NEW!Fabric Glossary
Sewing Review Requests Add a Review Request
Your Account
Edit Profile
My Page
Favorites
Wish List
Pattern Catalog
Notifications
Friends of PR
Join Friends of PR
Find a member
Deal Corner
Photo Album
Calendar
Chat Room
Chat Schedule
Chat Transcripts
Sewing Classifieds
Add a Classified
Sewing Contests
enter contest
contest report
contest gallery
Favorite Links
reviews with comments
merchant gallery
article archive
newsletter archive
Craft Resources
contact info
shipping rates
returns & refunds
testimonials

Platinum Sponsor - Stylish Fabric
Stylish Fabric
You are not logged in. Login here.



Message Board > Fitting Woes > Sleeve Adjustment ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
Sleeve Adjustment
Not sure what I need to do here.
lrstanfill
lrstanfill
Advanced Beginner
KY USA
Member since 10/18/09
Posts: 42
Login to reply to this post

Date: 6/7/12 10:02 AM

Hello Everyone,
Hopefully this won't be too confusing.
I am working on a muslin for a knit empire waist dress. I've got the bodice exactly like I want it, now I am working on the sleeves.

So my question is about what type of adjustment I need to make.

I am using McCalls 5893 View B. It has set in sleeves that are banded around the bottom.

Now, I like everything about the sleeve (fit in armscye seam, fit around bicep, fit aroud banded hem) except that it does not seem long enough on the outside of my arm. Sorry, no pics, but I drew this picture to try to explain.

My sleeve hem is at an angle, like the one on the left. But it seems to me that the banded hem should be parallel to the floor like the one I drew on the right. Like this photo:


When I look at the line drawing, the sleeves hems are not parallel to the floor and at a slight angle, but I am plus sized and have full biceps, so I think that sleeves parallel to the floor will be more flattering than sleeves that fall right across the fullest part of my arm.

So, my question is...is this a sleeve cap height adjustment? Because I need to add 3.5 inches to get the sleeve to sit parallel. That seems like a lot. And I am happy with the sleeve in every other way, so I hate to mess it up.

As always, I appreciate your suggestions!

heathergwo
heathergwo  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
CA USA
Member since 11/14/11
Posts: 958
Login to reply to this post

Date: 6/7/12 11:53 AM

Does the pattern piece have one of those "lengthen or shorten here" set of double lines? If so, you can easily add those inches on the pattern piece at that point before cutting. If NOT, I THINK you can just pick what seems to be the center of the sleeve length, cut it, add in those inches and tape it back together. Hopefully someone with more experience can chime in to confirm if this is the best way to do it.

If unsure, you can always make a muslin to confirm!

------
Brother Innovis 1250D
Babylock Enlighten
Singer Curvy 8763
Brother 1034D
Janome 385.19606
Brother 2340CV

GlButterfly

GlButterfly
Intermediate
CA USA
Member since 8/28/08
Posts: 2910
Login to reply to this post

Date: 6/7/12 12:38 PM

If the shoulders on the garment aren't wide enough for your body, they could be pulling up the sleeves.

------
I have not yet begun to procrastinate

Update: soon I will decide when I will begin procrastinating.

lrstanfill
lrstanfill
Advanced Beginner
KY USA
Member since 10/18/09
Posts: 42
Login to reply to this post

Date: 6/7/12 12:45 PM

Thanks @GI Butterfly. No, the shoulder seams sit right on top of the pivot point. If anything, they are a smidge wide.

JTink
star
JTink
Intermediate
VA USA
Member since 4/20/08
Posts: 5706
Login to reply to this post

In reply to lrstanfill <<


Date: 6/7/12 4:24 PM

Heather has a good suggestion. Try cutting across and lengthening the sleeve. I checked the reviews of this dress and Christy S. is one that used sleeves. I didn't read her review, but her sleeves look pretty level. Do you have a large upper arm? I do and this will happen to me sometimes, if I don't enlarge the sleeve.

Lena Merrin
star
Lena Merrin
Expert/Couture
AUSTRALIA
Member since 2/5/09
Posts: 557
Login to reply to this post

In reply to lrstanfill <<


Date: 6/7/12 6:46 PM

Irstanfill, you can easily make the sleeves longer, but I feel I must let you know that horizontal line across fuller arms is not flattering, I would keep the angle, even on a bit longer sleeve. To make sleeve relax and fall vertically you'd need to add to sleeve cap height.

------
www.iconicpatterns.com

lrstanfill
lrstanfill
Advanced Beginner
KY USA
Member since 10/18/09
Posts: 42
Login to reply to this post

In reply to Lena Merrin <<


Date: 6/8/12 1:00 PM

@Lena Merrin, being plus sized I always feel that sleeves that angle up look like they are too little for the people wearing them. No?
What do others think?
I'm finishing the first version of the dress tonight without adjustments and will post pictures. I would love to get opinions before I start my second dress.

marec
starstarstarstar
marec  Friend of PR
Intermediate
OR USA
Member since 5/11/08
Posts: 3991
Login to reply to this post

Date: 6/8/12 7:04 PM

FWIW, I think short sleeves as your second drawing shows are not flattering. I prefer a short sleeve with a bit of an angle. Elbow length with a straight hem look okay, and even have a sporty look.

------
my blog: http://kf-biblioblog.blogspot.com/
Sewing through my pattern stash-145
completed.

Michelle T

Michelle T
Intermediate
BC CANADA
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 4406
Login to reply to this post

thumbsup 1 member likes this.
Date: 6/8/12 8:50 PM

I have very large upper arms and they tend to pull the outer edge of sleeves up. If you make sure you have enough room for your arm, your sleeve should hang a bit better. You may need some extra length on the outer edge to make it hang properly.

Just as a FBA adds extra length to the front of a shirt as well as giving room for the larger breast.

------
Proud parent of a Dwight International School Honour Roll Student

wendyrb
wendyrb  Friend of PR
Advanced
CA
Member since 12/30/11
Posts: 2742
online now


Going to PR Weekend Austin!
Login to reply to this post

In reply to lrstanfill <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 6/9/12 1:30 AM

I suggest for dress #2 cutting a muslin sleeve to try different ways and see for yourself what's best:

* Trace a sleeve muslin and mark the original pattern cap stitch line in ink on your muslin.

* Cut the muslin, with about 2 inches additional fabric at the peak of the cap center shoulder notch. Blend shape that extra in a curve to the sleeve head notches front and back. You're making a very roomy cap to experiment with.

* You probably won't need it all, but it's hard to say what will make the sleeve hang well and to your liking.

* Thread or pin baste the underarm sleeve between the front and back notches.

* Try on the garment with the cap area free.

* Drape in the sleeve cap by pinning quickly, no need to perfect now. Be patient, you can do it on yourself.

* Try different variations to see your preference for look, fit and arm movement. Usually it's a compromise. You might have to add to the body back armhole width to get comfortable reaching forward room. Pretend you're driving a car.

You can really see how flattering it is/is not to get the sleeve parallel to the floor or somewhat tipped up, longer, shorter, etc. I suggest taking photos of yourself front, side and back. So much more revealing than looking in a mirror. Ask me how I know.

------
Always keep your words soft and sweet, just in case you have to eat them. Andy Rooney

Pfonzie- my honey Pfaff Creative Performance, Bernina 930 and 830, Evolution serger.

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Fitting Woes >> Sleeve Adjustment

Merchants on PR
Elliott Berman Textiles
Fabrics for Greater Ideas
Deals!
Sewn Square One
Patterns for Your Style.
Web site
Gwyn Hug
Fabric Shopping Help!
Deals!
Lanetzliving Vintage Sewing Patterns
Vintage Sewing Patterns
Deals!
Style Arc sewing dress patterns
Patterns That Fit
Web site

Copyright © 2014 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.
Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Contact Us
Online Sewing Classes
Create a Jacket Muslin
Fee: $29.00
(Regular $49.00)
Create a Jacket Muslin

Online Sewing Classes
The Contemporary Couture Jacket
Fee: $49.00
(Regular $49.00)
The Contemporary Couture Jacket

McCall's 8026
photo
Review by Peter in N... on 7/7/10
Read Review

Jamie Christina Palooza Apron Pattern (JC309PA)
Jamie Christina Palooza Apron Pattern (JC309PA)

Details
Price: $14.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Favorite Things Blossoms & Bloomers Pattern
Favorite Things Blossoms & Bloomers Pattern

Details
Price: $14.00
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Peek-A Boo Sweetheart Halter Digital Pattern ( Size 6 mo -12 years )
Peek-A Boo Sweetheart Halter Digital Pattern ( Size 6 mo -12 years )

Details
Price: $7.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

MariaDenmark Laura Lounge Digital Pattern
MariaDenmark Laura Lounge Digital Pattern

Details
Price: $5.20
Add to Bag Add to Bag

BurdaStyle Downloadable 001
photo
Review by Karen6790 on 1/15/09
Read Review

Vogue 8795 Pattern ( Size 14-16-18-20-22 )
Vogue 8795 Pattern ( Size 14-16-18-20-22 )

Details
Price: $30.00
Add to Bag Add to Bag

McCalls 5214 Pattern ( Size SML-XLG )
McCalls 5214 Pattern ( Size SML-XLG )

Details
Price: $15.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Subscribe to PR Message Board Feed Subscribe to the PR Message Board Feed Add to My Yahoo! Subscribe at NewsGator Online Subscribe at Bloglines Add to MyMSN