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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Square shoulder adjustment

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Square shoulder adjustment
How do you know you need one?
lareine
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lareine  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/8/12 7:24 AM

I hae never given this a passing thought until tonight. How do you know if you need a square shoulder adjustment? I thought square shoulders were the norm but maybe that's just because I have them. My shoulder and arm are pretty much at right angles. If that requires an adjustment then I have been missing out on something!

What are the benefits of a square shoulder adjustment? If you do need to do one, what is the best way?

Edit: I'm just watching Mad Men and Joan's shoulders look like they're at 45 degrees. Is that supposed to be the norm or would somebody like that need a sloping shoulder adjustment? I have never thought about shoulders much. I don't know what the norm is or if people are ever "normal" in this respect.
-- Edited on 6/8/12 7:37 AM --

Michelle L
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Michelle L  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/8/12 8:24 AM

I have always assumed that dress forms are made to the "average" body shape that patterns are drafted for, so I would assume that the slope of the shoulder on a dress form would be "normal". I also have square shoulders, as well as broad shoulders, but find that I never have to make adjustments for the squareness, just the width.

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Michelle

http://cheapandpicky.blogspot.com/

lareine
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lareine  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/8/12 9:23 AM

Hmmm, my shoulders are much squarer than that, and have dips in them where my bra straps go. I've had big boobs since I was in my early teens and I'm sure my bra straps have had an impact on the shape of my body. As a young and growing girl I quite often had a bra that was too small in the cup and put too much pressure on the shoulder strap as a result

tigergirl
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tigergirl
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In reply to lareine <<


Date: 6/11/12 9:46 PM

I have square shoulders too. I find that unless I let out the outer part of the shoulder seam I end up with huge diagonal pull lines from the outer shoulders. (I also have those dips from the bra straps)

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Brother BM-2600
Janome 693
Lumina Overlocker (Serger)
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Lena Merrin
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Lena Merrin
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thumbsup 1 member likes this.
Date: 6/12/12 6:13 AM

Figures with square shoulders have a bigger diagonal measurement from bust point to shoulder point. If shoulder is not adjusted then you'll end up with diagonal wrinkles from shoulder point to bust (in front), possibly tighter armscye (depending on the fit) and some vertical folds on the sleeve.

------
www.iconicpatterns.com

lareine
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lareine  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/12/12 6:33 AM

Thank you. That information is really useful. I must be on the lookout for pull lines! I have such issues fitting my bust anyway that it might be hard to tell where the problem lies but every extra bit of knowledge helps me to improve.

KiwiWendy
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KiwiWendy
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Date: 6/12/12 6:46 AM

I have square-ish shoulders that are very narrow so for me it's not the diagonal wrinkles that waved a big flag at me. In fact it's been so long since I realised that I can't remember what was.

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Sydney, Australia

MNBarb
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MNBarb  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/12/12 12:56 PM

Deleted.
-- Edited on 6/13/12 10:12 PM --

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Barb
"I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." Thomas Edison
"I not only use all the brains I have, but all I can borrow." Woodrow Wilson

Lena Merrin
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Lena Merrin
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In reply to MNBarb <<


Date: 6/12/12 6:36 PM

I think it is, Barb! You have nicely developed shoulder joints and they need bit more room, so they are borrowing wherever they can. You can see on the blue top that one of the pull lines starts at your clavicle point. Releasing some seam allowance just over the tip of the shoulder should have an immediate effect. Set them free! :)

------
www.iconicpatterns.com

Debbie Cook
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Debbie Cook
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Date: 6/12/12 7:04 PM

I think those diagonal folds are only because the blouse is unbuttoned at the collar. Your shoulders don't look especially square. Your right one maybe, but not your left. Real square shoulders will see evidence in the BACK of blouses/shirts - the collar won't stay in the right place and there will be a fold of fabric right below the neck.

------
--
"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com

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