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Forum > Patterns and Notions > Sew-in or fusible interfacing? ( Moderated by Sharon1952)

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Sew-in or fusible interfacing?
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kath210
kath210
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Date: 6/10/12 10:19 PM

I'm doing a totebag soon, I hope. It calls for hair canvas, something I never heard of but PR came to the rescue as usual.

So I will buy regular interfacing. The pattern calls for sew-in but I recall having a lot of issues keeping it straight...it bunched up and got off kilter in the past. I think fusible would be easier.

Any opinions?

heathergwo
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Date: 6/10/12 10:59 PM

I make quite a few bags... next to garments, it what I sew the most of. 99% of the time, I use fusible interfacing. I don't know what Hair Canvas is either, but if it has a backing that will allow fusible, that's the way I would go. It's so much easier to just iron it on and then you don't have to worry about it... IMHO

HTH

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Fictionfan
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Date: 6/10/12 11:19 PM

Hair canvas is exactly what it sounds like: animal hair, usually goat, mixed with fibers such as rayon and wool, woven to make a canvas. It comes in a couple different weights. It is used to give supple yet firm structure to suits. Hymo is one type of hair canvas, generally on the order of $35/yd. Other kinds of hair canvas can be found for about $12-15/yd. I've never seen fusible hair canvas. It is usually padstitched to the garment fabric. I have also never seen it for sale at Joann's in a store, though I have seen it online at Joann.com, and at tailoring supply sites.

There are a number of fusibles you can use instead. You can also fuse more than one layer of a lighter weight interfacing if you can't find a heavier fusible. If your pattern calls for hair canvas as the interfacing, I'm guessing that they don't want you to use one of the stiff craft fusibles. You might want to look for one a weft interfacing instead of a nonwoven type if you do substitute a fusible rather than order hair canvas.

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Fictionfan

LynnRowe
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In reply to kath210 <<


Date: 6/11/12 0:30 AM

Depends on the garment, for me.

On my suit jackets, I use sew-in interfacings. On casual garments, I'll usually use high quality fusibles.

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I heart Panzy, Pfaff Creative Performance, the sewing machine love of my life!
And Baby (Enlighten serger), Victor (BLCS), Rupert (Pfaff 2023-knits expert) Ash (B350SE-Artwork), Kee (B750QEE-Panzy's BFF), Georgie (B560-Kee's baby sister) and the Feather-Flock!

Most of all, I heart Woo (HimmyCat). Until we meet again, my beautiful little boy. I love you.

LynnRowe
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In reply to kath210 <<


Date: 6/11/12 0:31 AM

BTW, you can get fusible hair canvas. I wouldn't use it for garments, as it's very stiff after fusing, but may be perfect for your bag.

------
I heart Panzy, Pfaff Creative Performance, the sewing machine love of my life!
And Baby (Enlighten serger), Victor (BLCS), Rupert (Pfaff 2023-knits expert) Ash (B350SE-Artwork), Kee (B750QEE-Panzy's BFF), Georgie (B560-Kee's baby sister) and the Feather-Flock!

Most of all, I heart Woo (HimmyCat). Until we meet again, my beautiful little boy. I love you.

Coconuts
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Date: 6/11/12 1:18 AM

Charles Zarit has either hair canvas or cloth for cheap. It's not couture level by any stretch, but it is cheap. He/they shipped quickly.

gramma b
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gramma b
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In reply to kath210 <<
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Date: 6/11/12 7:21 AM

In addition to a regular interfacing, pin first and try a heavier piece of stabilizer several inches wide for just around the top opening. I have used men's trouser waistband facings, leftover canvas, drapery heading, etc. It's annoying when the opening always collapses on a soft tote. This also helps the handles stand up for grabbing.

bakertoo
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Date: 6/11/12 11:36 AM

I have used Hymo for lining bags, and it has added really good structure to my bags. The Hymo feels kind of heavy and stiff until I started to cut it out and manipulate it, and it became very easy to use. I loved the feel of it! The bags I have made with it are small, cross over the body style, and they hang and hold their shape much better than the ones I didn't use the Hymo in. I have also used scraps of linen as an interfacing, but I had to be careful of the weight in comparison with the fashion outer fabric, otherwise the whole bag became way too heavy. I did use a lighter knit fusible to give structure to the lining fabric, rather than fuse it to the outer fabric, and that worked as well. That is where you'll have to experiment! But the linen did add good structure. I had pretty good success sewing in both of those fabrics, using a long basting stitch on my machine and it worked well, and didn't cause any trouble by scooting around at the corners, because I would just lower the feed dogs and adjust the fabric. I also hand basted and then removed the basting, and I think I liked that method better because I could then remove the basting stitches, because I liked the whole process.
Good Luck!

Janie Viers
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Date: 6/11/12 2:00 PM

There is also home decor interfacing that is stiff. It is also used for making window blinds. Craft stableizer is ok. I hate sew in cause it shifts and isn't as smooth as iron on. I usually use iron on, press very lightly to almost baste it the fashion fabric and then treat it as sew in. (by that I mean I don't trim as much off the interfacing as I would if it were really used as fused)

Men's ties sometimes have the hair stuff in it and they are flexible but still keep their shape well unless they are wadded up and shoved in the corner of a suitcase and forgotten!

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JanieV

kath210
kath210
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Date: 6/12/12 8:41 PM

Wow, thanks for so much input! I will print this page for reference.

I went to Joann's to peruse the choices ( I was also impressed with C Zaria's prices) and found so much it made my head spin. The heavy craft was too stiff as said. But finding a nice regular heavyweight was hard...must be popular.

Didn't wish to leave empty-handed, so I ended up buying a few yards of medium weight, figuring it might do or I'd use it for something else.

But I had a thought- could I double it up for my tote? Thanks to all for so many ideas and info.

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