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Message Board > Fitting Woes > Fitting First Pair of Shorts ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Fitting First Pair of Shorts
mare1234
mare1234
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Date: 6/11/12 4:17 PM

I posted this today on the Colette patterns site, but thought I would post here, too, in hopes of some help!

I made my very first pair of shorts with the Iris shorts pattern by Colette Patterns, and I think it is super cute! However, I do have some fit issues. I cut a size 10. They feel fine for the most part, not too tight or loose, except he crotch does feel a tad short, so I think I should lengthen it maybe by 1/2" or 1".

I am wondering about the excess fabric by the back darts, as well as the slight diagonal lines in the front, and in the upper hip area.
I am hoping it is a crotch lengthening and dart lengthening/shortening procedure and not a swayback adjustment, which sounds hard!

Any tips would be so appreciated, I am itching to do another pair! Here are some photos:







-- Edited on 6/11/12 5:53 PM --

JocelynJ
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In reply to mare1234 <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 6/11/12 9:17 PM

No advice--just love that pattern on you!

Twizard
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In reply to mare1234 <<


Date: 6/12/12 0:03 AM

Are you thinking of sewing the crotch seam deeper, or letting out the seam allowance through the crotch area, both front and back?

Make the crotch adjustment first, prior to any other adjustments. Take a measurement of the crotch length while you are sitting down, and while you are standing up. this is the measurement from waist front to waist back through the crotch area. You appear to have a proportional figure, so likely don't need an extreme adjustment of front or back individually. Consider the difference between the sitting and standing measurement, because it is an indication of the minimum fitting ease you need for wearing comfort.

But, check the crotch depth before you adjust anything. They are different adjustments! The crotch depth is the length from your waist (or top of pants) to the bottom of your hip when sitting. This is the adjustment that you see on patterns, says lengthen or shorten here. Compare your measurements to the pattern tissue measurements.
The crotch depth is what it is after you have cut, unless the adjustment is a decrease. But, at least you will know what you are starting with.

If The adjustment you are talking about making is simply sewing the crotch deeper, is going to change the fit of the legs and hips. It will tighten the fit of the hip/leg area, so you may need to let that out on the side seams accordingly.

Before I tried that, I would try starting at about the midpoint of tummy, and gradually letting out the seam to the crotch area, both front/back, and inner leg seams, which will increase the crotch length, which may be all you need to do.

Only make one adjustment at a time.

Hard to see for sure in the pic, but the lines appear to be more prominent on the right side of the picture in the front. If that is true, you may be slightly assymetrical, with your left front side (or at least it appears to be your left in picture) slightly larger than your right side. That is more common than people realize. The fabric is pulling to the outside of the hip on the side I am talking about.

You don't appear to me to need a sway back adjustment, but the darts do appear to be too long, and not deep enough, but hard to tell for sure in pic.

------
Pfaff 1471, janome 8050, bernina 830, Pfaff Passport 2.0; sergers singer quantum lock 5, baby lock protege, pfaff 794

MNBarb
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Date: 6/12/12 1:03 PM

They ARE cute!

Do you have someone who can do a little pulling of wrinkles for you? If so, what does it take to get rid of those diagonal wrinkles that wrap from your hip to center back. Is it a matter of excessive length or width? Whatever it is, it's little and should only need a small change in seaming.

------
Barb
"I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." Thomas Edison
"I not only use all the brains I have, but all I can borrow." Woodrow Wilson

meleliza
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In reply to mare1234 <<


Date: 6/13/12 0:16 AM

Love your fabric choice. I should really get moving on this pattern. The wrinkles I see seem like something is pulling the fabric to the back because there isn't enough fullness. Is it possible you have a tiny waist compared to your hips? Or maybe a perkier botTom than the pattern allows for?

------
Melanie

mare1234
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Date: 6/14/12 7:54 PM

JocelynJ --Thank you!

Twizard-- I compared my crotch depth measurement to the one on the pattern. Mine's 10". I checked out pants fitting tips on simplicity.com, and going by their directions, the crotch depth of the pattern is at least 11, possible more since my hips are over 36". If that were the case, it looks like I would need to shorten it?? That would put me in camel toe territory for sure. I may not be measuring correctly.

As for the for the side front wrinkles, that's where I installed the zipper, so maybe that has something to do with it? I'm not so great with invisible zippers yet, that's my third one ever, I think.

MNBarb- When I pinch the fabric where the darts are, that gives the best control for the excess fabric. I'll figure out how to deepen and shorten the darts, or maybe just deepen them.

Meleliza- Yes, I do have a smaller waist proportional to my bum. I posted the same question on the Colette forums, and today Sarai, the owner and designer suggested a tutorial on a full butt adjustment. Looks hard since I am new at this, but gotta love that the owner of the company offered help!

Thanks, everyone!

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