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Help! I need some pattern suggestions.
lightweight drapey knit rayon jersey
1betsy1
1betsy1  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/13/12 4:28 PM

HELP I need some suggestions.

I have quite a few pieces of lightweight rayon jersey knit and I would love to make some knit tops for this summer. The fabric is very drapey, I have made a couple of basic T's, but the neck and armholes are not very stable.

I really really need some pattern suggestions.

Thanks
Betsy

Janie Viers
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Date: 6/13/12 5:03 PM

The peasant style is in right now. The eleastic at the neck, upper arm and under bustline seams make lightweight knits look luxurious. I just made DGD 4 in a row and they only took about 2 yards of wide fabric and 2 hours. Of course she is a negative 5 footer wearing a 4, but still!

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JanieV

marjoriekh
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Date: 6/13/12 7:01 PM

I've used many lightweight rayon/lycra knits to make tops and dresses. If you stabilize the neckline and shoulder seamlines with knit tape (called fusible hem tape here) right after cutting to avoid stretching out, and then stabilize the hems with knit tape before sewing them, the neck, shoulders and hems will all stay in good shape.

In fact, I've even gone back to a stretched-out garment that I had failed to stabilize, removed the neckline binding, steamed it back into shape, applied the knit tape, and re-applied the neck binding, with excellent results. A dress that had been becoming dangerously revealing was back to being everyday wearable.

Just bought another roll each of all three colors so that I won't be caught without this stuff.

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marjoriekh

LynnRowe
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In reply to 1betsy1 <<
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Date: 6/13/12 7:19 PM

Is your knit a rayon/Lycra? Why are the armholes and neckline unstable? How are you finishing them? Are you sewing or serging? Do you use a walking foot? Bindings? Turn and stitch? Coverstitching? Do you press and baste before sewing/serging? Talk me thru your top construction!

I use lightweight rayon/Lycra knits and have very stable necklines and armholes, so if we can get that sorted out, you can go ahead and sew any of the gazillion knit tops available.
-- Edited on 6/13/12 7:22 PM --

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I heart Panzy, Pfaff Creative Performance, the sewing machine love of my life!
And Baby (Enlighten serger), Victor (BLCS), Rupert (Pfaff 2023-knits expert) Ash (B350SE-Artwork), Kee (B750QEE-Panzy's BFF), Georgie (B560-Kee's baby sister) and the Feather-Flock!

Most of all, I heart Woo (HimmyCat). Until we meet again, my beautiful little boy. I love you.

1betsy1
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In reply to LynnRowe <<


Date: 6/13/12 8:30 PM

I am using rayon/lycra fabric. I usually use a serger, sometimes I use a sewing machine and then finish the seams with the serger. I do use fusible stabilizer at the shoulder seams. The armholes are really ok, I have more trouble at the necklines. I have been using a neck binding (Threads technique) but the fabric rolls so much when stretching the binding onto the neckline. The finished neckline gets stretched out of shape.

I want to make a Gazillion tops !!!!

1betsy1
1betsy1  Friend of PR
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In reply to Janie Viers <<


Date: 6/13/12 8:32 PM

Janie

The peasant style sounds great. But what does DGD stand for?

Betsy

LynnRowe
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In reply to 1betsy1 <<
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Date: 6/13/12 9:39 PM

Your binding shouldn't be rolling when you attach it. You're folding the strip in half lengthwise, and then serging to the neckline with the binding's raw edges aligned with the neckline of the top?

When you stretch the binding while serging or sewing to the neckline, make sure you do not stretch the neckline of the top at all. I've seen students stretch both the binding and the garment fabric when attaching the binding; it can be easy to forget to stretch only the binding itself, never the garment fabric.

Don't stay-stitch on knit necklines and/or armholes...you're more likely to stretch the fabric out of shape than prevent it.

And don't stretch too hard on the binding; there shouldn't be any distortion or visible narrowing of the binding fabric.

That all said, binding does take a bit of practice.

In the meantime...any cowl top patterns will eliminate the neckline problem (Vogue, Kwik Sew, Style Arc, etc), as will the Jalie scarf top. Or knit tops with facings instead of bindings, such as Kwik Sew, Hot Patterns etc.

Kwik Sew 3740

Vogue 8597

Style Arc "Amy"

Style Arc "Posh" peasant-style

Vogue 2945

Kwik Sew 3593

Vogue 8634

Hot Patterns 1071

Jalie 2921
-- Edited on 6/13/12 9:51 PM --

------
I heart Panzy, Pfaff Creative Performance, the sewing machine love of my life!
And Baby (Enlighten serger), Victor (BLCS), Rupert (Pfaff 2023-knits expert) Ash (B350SE-Artwork), Kee (B750QEE-Panzy's BFF), Georgie (B560-Kee's baby sister) and the Feather-Flock!

Most of all, I heart Woo (HimmyCat). Until we meet again, my beautiful little boy. I love you.

1betsy1
1betsy1  Friend of PR
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In reply to LynnRowe <<


Date: 6/14/12 1:01 AM

LynnRowe....thanks for all the info and the pattern suggestions. I really like V2945, I'm going to try that top next.

Betsy

LynnRowe
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In reply to 1betsy1 <<


Date: 6/14/12 4:13 PM

You're very welcome!

Do try binding again down the road...I have knit tops that I made years ago, still wear them, still toss them in the washer & dryer, and they're still very stable.

------
I heart Panzy, Pfaff Creative Performance, the sewing machine love of my life!
And Baby (Enlighten serger), Victor (BLCS), Rupert (Pfaff 2023-knits expert) Ash (B350SE-Artwork), Kee (B750QEE-Panzy's BFF), Georgie (B560-Kee's baby sister) and the Feather-Flock!

Most of all, I heart Woo (HimmyCat). Until we meet again, my beautiful little boy. I love you.

nitsel
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In reply to 1betsy1 <<


Date: 6/20/12 11:40 PM

DGD = dear granddaughter

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