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Message Board > Fitting Woes > anatomical armhole ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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anatomical armhole
has anyone actually tried it?
SVN
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SVN  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/22/12 12:34 PM

It seems we all now think that sleeve cap ease is bogus!! But has anyone actually successfully drafted what KF describes as an anatomically correct armhole?
Or, for that matter, has anyone found a way to raise their arm above their head without shortening the sleeve cap height?

AnneM
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AnneM  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/23/12 5:14 PM

I am making a wrap dress right now, Vogue pattern, and the sleeve has a large cap and under the arm pulls away from the body if I lift my arm. Annoying.

I have often wondered about Kathleen's article. I haven't been adventurous enough to try it.

Does any one know of a pattern that uses that type of drafting style for the sleeve cap?


P.S. I think this is part of why knits are so popular, in RTW & sewing.
-- Edited on 6/23/12 5:14 PM --

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With a great wardrobe that's still in the flat-fabric stage.

Mufffet
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Mufffet  Friend of PR
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thumbsup 1 member likes this.
Date: 6/23/12 9:31 PM

Armholes - Burda, Lutterloh, Ottobre know how to actually draft an armhole and sleeve - I was blown away when I sewed the first Burda dress I made. WOW....the big 4 think back and front are mirror images?! I do not know why, but have a look at a Burda sleeve. AMAZING. You don't really need to mark to front and back because they aren't the same! Yes, really!

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--Dalai Lama

I have sewing machines

Sarsez
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Sarsez
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In reply to Mufffet <<


Date: 6/23/12 9:58 PM

Quote:
Armholes - Burda, Lutterloh, Ottobre know how to actually draft an armhole and sleeve


I agree. Front and back armholes should not be the same shape. KF's armhole are similar to Burda's but I haven't checked super closely so don't quote me! I'm going on a sewing retreat this coming weekend and I'm going to draft a bodice, german method, and sleeve if I get improved sleeve/armhole fit. (See earlier whinge about sleeves on this board....)

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24th Nov 12 to 28th Nov 13
Fabric and patterns rules for me.
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Remember to keep sewing to your wardrobe plan!

SVN
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Date: 6/23/12 10:43 PM

I agree that Burda sleeve drafting is superior to any Big 4, HOWEVER, the armholes (not sleeves) are not even close to KF's anatomical armhole example. I drafted an 'anatomical' sleeve from 'patternmaking for fashion', as recommended by KF, but it was pretty useless until I started messing with the armhole. As it was, I gave up with the sleeve draft and just draped the sleeve in.

I'm getting there... (a funny shaped armhole and sleeve with very little ease - and more mobility than the original Burda draft) but I'm finding it hard to see how to make the back part of the armhole look like KF's version, without adding to the back side seam.
I was just wondering if anyone had figured it out yet.

Sarsez
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In reply to SVN <<


Date: 6/23/12 11:56 PM

Quote:
I drafted an 'anatomical' sleeve from 'patternmaking for fashion', as recommended by KF, but it was pretty useless until I started messing with the armhole.


B*gger! That was I was going to use to get my draft. Thanks for the heads up. I'll have to dig up KF's book and read that as well...

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24th Nov 12 to 28th Nov 13
Fabric and patterns rules for me.
Remember to shop your stash girl!
Remember to keep sewing to your wardrobe plan!

JillyBe
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JillyBe
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Date: 6/24/12 2:01 AM

I've been using KF's armholes for awhile now...or at least, my very non-technical version. I'm still working on perfecting it, but my sleeves & armscyes are considerably more comfortable & fit better than before.

I recently showed my alterations on a blog post here. As I said, I'm still working on it, but the fit I got on this Tee was pretty good

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http://jillybejoyful.blogspot.com/
a blog about creativity, sewing, vintage sewing machines, and...... life :)

Sew4Fun
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In reply to Mufffet <<


Date: 6/24/12 2:29 AM

Quote:
Armholes - Burda, Lutterloh, Ottobre know how to actually draft an armhole and sleeve - I was blown away when I sewed the first Burda dress I made. WOW....the big 4 think back and front are mirror images?!

Oh don't get me started. I've just finished fixing a Big 4 pattern, a-gain! I've made three Big 4 jacket and coat patterns in the last month, and spent the best part of an afternoon each time "fixing" the [insert expletive] sleeves. Grrrrrr! It makes me so grumpy the way they draft!

I agree Burda knows how to draft an armhole and sleeve. I will add so does Style Arc. Of all the patterns I have ever used I love Style Arc the best. Their drafting is beautiful!

------
Belinda. Melbourne, Australia
http://sew-4-fun.blogspot.com/

petro
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petro  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/24/12 4:37 AM

The front and back curves of a set in sleeve should be different, as is the shape of the front and back armscye. This is basic pattern drafting, I'm astounded that anyone should have thought they should be symmetrical. I would chuck out the window any pattern drafting book or method that gave you a symmetrical set in sleeve for a woven fabric. On the ease issue, I'm not entirely in agreement with KF, but I get where she is coming from. Certainly you don't need oodles of it, even for a sleeve set high on someone with prominent shoulder bones.
Individual fit is slightly different to mass produced rtw.

Sew4Fun
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Sew4Fun
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In reply to petro <<


Date: 6/24/12 6:08 AM

Quote: petro
The front and back curves of a set in sleeve should be different, as is the shape of the front and back armscye. This is basic pattern drafting, I'm astounded that anyone should have thought they should be symmetrical.

Agreed! Now can you please tell the pattern makers at McVogrick! My last three McVogrick jacket patterns have all had symmetrical sleeves.

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Belinda. Melbourne, Australia
http://sew-4-fun.blogspot.com/

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