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Message Board > Fitting Woes > I keep having ot pull the front of my shirt down ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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I keep having ot pull the front of my shirt down
What pattern adjustment is needed?
MNBarb
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MNBarb  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/26/12 12:41 PM

I'm sure this question has been asked. If someone could direct me to that thread or provide an answer I would appriciate it.

My shirts seem to ride toward the back while I'm wearing them. I know this has something (numerous things) to do with my shoulders and probably my back.

I've tried a forward shoulder adjustment and moving the entire shoulder seam forward. I don't think I have a round upper back but, to be honest, I'm not sure what is going on.

No photos, but most of my reviews have front, back and side views if that helps.

I'd love to develop a shoulder/back pattern block that I can plug in to everything I sew.
-- Edited on 6/26/12 12:51 PM --

------
Barb
"I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." Thomas Edison
"I not only use all the brains I have, but all I can borrow." Woodrow Wilson

Elona
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In reply to MNBarb <<


Date: 6/26/12 3:44 PM

Judging from the side view photo you took of yourself in that bias Burda woven tank, your posture is perfect, as shown here (sorry I don't seem to be able to do an embedded link with the iPad):

http://thegymcoach.wordpress.com/2010/02/10/what-is-ideal-posture/

On your photo, try running a straight line from your ear through your shoulder and elbow as shown in the illustration. I should think that a forward shoulder adjustment would not be indicated for your very erect stance. In fact, your shoulders appear to be drawn a bit back in an almost military fashion.

CM_Sews
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Date: 6/26/12 4:26 PM

I have this problem, too. For me, the back of the garment is too small.

There is not enough fabric in the back of the garment to adequately cover my back and give me wearing ease, and the shirt "steals" fabric from the front of the shirt as I move around. I was constantly pulling the shirt down to avoid feeling like I was being strangled. What I needed was more fabric in the back of the garment. Moving the shoulder seam didn't help me.

I have success with a rounded shoulder alteration. In Fantastic Fit for Every Body, Gale Hazen calls this "the Emily", named after one of her clients. She said that 40% or 60% (I can't remember the exact %) of her clients needed this alteration, which tells me that many/most sewing patterns aren't designed for real people.

I've looked at the rounded shoulder alteration in Fantastic Fit for Every Body, in Sandra Betzina's Fast Fit, and in Fit for Real People. Each book has a slightly different method for altering the pattern, but the end result is exactly the same.

If you don't think that rounded shoulders is your problem, take a look at an alteration for wide back.

CMC


-- Edited on 6/26/12 4:57 PM --

wood turtle

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In reply to MNBarb <<


Date: 6/26/12 5:08 PM

Check this topic. I have this problem too. I would try lengthening the back at the mid armhole region and shortening the front. Moving the shoulder seam forward does not give you any more length in your back region, and your back is stealing from the front, I think.

shirt moves toward back
-- Edited on 6/26/12 5:13 PM --

MNBarb
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Date: 6/27/12 7:23 AM

Thanks everyone. Now I have to study this so it makes sense.

I also seem to have swayback so have been taking up fabric from the back omn some patterns. I'm not sure how to subtract from the lower back and add to the upper back without having the result be a disaster.

------
Barb
"I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." Thomas Edison
"I not only use all the brains I have, but all I can borrow." Woodrow Wilson

mhk
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In reply to MNBarb <<


Date: 6/27/12 8:33 AM

Here's another possibility: the back neck opening itself is too wide. This is another thing Kathleen Fasanella talks about (I know, I keep mentioning her in my posts, but NAYY -- I just learn so much from her). It may be in her book rather than on her website.

It's kind of a hard concept to explain or understand --but it has to do with the top of your garment being properly anchored on your shoulders and around your neck. If it is not properly anchored it will shift around, usually backwards.

I finally understood it after playing with a couple of blouse backs and fronts that were the same in every way except size of back neck opening. You can see what happens to the shoulder seam if the back neck opening is too wide -- it twists a bit.

Also, related to the this, for the garment to be properly anchored to your body, the armhole opening has to be the right shape (different in the front and back) and it often isn't in the patterns.

Kathleen's website
-- Edited on 6/27/12 8:35 AM --
-- Edited on 6/27/12 8:35 AM --
-- Edited on 6/27/12 8:45 AM --

SVN
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In reply to MNBarb <<


Date: 6/27/12 8:45 AM

I do it every time: subtract from the lower and add to the top. For the rounded shoulders, put on a muslin and get someone to put an x on the back approx where your greatest curve is - or prominent shoulder blades, which has the same effect. Take it off and cut a straight line from armhole to armhole (not through seam allowances), then let the fabric spread until it comes up to your largest vertebrae at the neckline.
There are a lot of good examples (pictures) of this in the Veblen book.

MNBarb
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Date: 6/27/12 2:29 PM

Ah yes, the Veblen book! Why am I not going to this wonderful resuorce that is on my shelf for a solution to this?

I understand about the wide neck as a possibility on some tops, like open-necked tunics, that makes sense.

Thanks, again.

------
Barb
"I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." Thomas Edison
"I not only use all the brains I have, but all I can borrow." Woodrow Wilson

purplebouquet
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In reply to mhk <<


Date: 6/27/12 2:37 PM

Quote: mhk
Here's another possibility: the back neck opening itself is too wide. This is another thing Kathleen Fasanella talks about (I know, I keep mentioning her in my posts, but NAYY -- I just learn so much from her).

That was my first thought as well. Either too wide or too high, in the sense that you need to scoop it out more.
Claudia
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