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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > transferring alterations

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transferring alterations
Make a muslin - make the changes - then how to trace back to pattern
avatrx

avatrx  Friend of PR
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IL USA
Member since 12/16/05
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Date: 7/1/12 11:13 AM

I made a pair of capri pants that needed several alterations to the hip curve, the waist height etc. I haven't cut anything, but have sew in some of the changes. I haven't put the waistband on at this point - but do have a chalk mark of the correction. The fly zipper is in.

What I don't know is how to make these changes on my original pattern? There must be some fairly simple way - I hope? I used a french curve to draw in the correction on the back at the top from center back seam to side seams.

JEF
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JEF  Friend of PR
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In reply to avatrx <<


Date: 7/1/12 6:22 PM

Sorry I can't really help but I can tell you that Peggy Sagers (Silhouette Patterns) just put of a DVD called Tissues Issues addressing how to transfer muslin fixes to the tissue. I have not see the DVD but she does have it on sale right now.

This is from an email she sent out:

Quote:
Our first double deal features our two newest DVDs, together or separate...trust us you need these! Tissue Issues Made EZ | Darts Are A Girls' Best Friend now $24.99 plus S&H. Or purchase both together for $44.99. Tissue | Darts.



HTH,

JEF

------
"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." --Abraham Lincoln

Miss Fairchild
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In reply to avatrx <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 7/1/12 8:08 PM

What I do, and what I learned here in some classes, is I will get a magic marker and mark everything--darts, seam allowances, alterations, etc. Then I will rip the muslin apart at the seamlines, cut on the magic marker lines, then lay these pieces over my pattern pieces, or use the muslin pieces as my pattern.

That's if it's a new pattern to me. If it's pretty simple, I'll lay the pattern pieces on my muslin to compare. This method is very helpful when identifying a hipline curve.

------
"Play the cards you are dealt, but choose who is sitting at the table"..AARP magazine

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schmammy
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schmammy  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/1/12 8:43 PM

On one of her webcasts, Peggy says, "Forget transferring the changes to the paper pattern. Just use the muslin pieces to cut from." [I may have paraphrased slightly.] That made sense to me, so I did that the next time I made a muslin. The one caveat is that you need to make sure all notches, circles, etc. are marked on the muslin.

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Indecision may or may not be my problem. -Jimmy Buffet

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LynnRowe
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In reply to avatrx <<


Date: 7/3/12 11:09 PM

I don't transfer to the tissue...I use the adjusted muslin as the pattern. The tissue pattern is just a starting point.

------
I heart Panzy, Pfaff Creative Performance, the sewing machine love of my life!
And Baby (Enlighten serger), Victor (BLCS), Rupert (Pfaff 2023-knits expert) Ash (B350SE-Artwork), Kee (B750QEE-Panzy's BFF), Georgie (B560-Kee's baby sister) and the Feather-Flock!

Most of all, I heart Woo (HimmyCat). Until we meet again, my beautiful little boy. I love you.

marymary86
marymary86
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In reply to LynnRowe <<


Date: 7/3/12 11:26 PM

Lynn - do you have any TNT patterns? Do you store the muslin to reuse later?

------
Mary


wendyrb
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In reply to avatrx <<
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Date: 7/4/12 0:22 AM

Unlike previous posters, I don't use the muslin for a pattern. I usually need more than 1 muslin in a new style. I prefer cutting my fabric from a paper pattern that is stable. I keep my adjusted patterns as TNT. I vary them, cut in new seam lines, borrow a new neckline from a commercial pattern, etc. I make Frankenpatterns!

I too use a fine sharpie at pinned changes. To transfer the marks, I put the pattern down 1st on my pinnable mat and place the muslin on top, matching them up at the neck and shoulder. If the neck is stretched out, I push it back into place and anchor the muslin through the paper and into the mat. with pins. A tracing wheel transfers the sharpie to the paper; I use pencil to mark and adjust the pattern further- rotate a dart, or monkey with a Full-Bust Adjustment.

Sarah Veblen is a fine resource. She offers classes here and her new book The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting has tons of pictures of the process. You're asking the right questions in such a great place to get answers. You'll figure out your cup of tea.

------
Always keep your words soft and sweet, just in case you have to eat them. Andy Rooney

Pfonzie- my honey Pfaff Creative Performance, Bernina 930 and 830, Evolution serger.

LynnRowe
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In reply to marymary86 <<


Date: 7/4/12 0:49 AM

I do have TNTs, and i also have TNT "bits and pieces". I don't muslin most knit top patterns, as I can usually tell by looking at the tissue pieces if there's a potential problem area. As I have several TNT knit top patterns, I can compare the new pattern piece(s) with a TNT piece and make corrections on the spot.

Suit jackets I always muslin, and sometimes 2 or 3 muslins are required before I have the one that's right. That final muslin then becomes my pattern pieces, although there's always still some tweaking to the garment required.

Bits and pieces of the final muslin often then becomes a TNT for future jackets. For example, I prefer 2 or 3-piece sleeves, so once I have a fitted 2-piece muslin sleeve, I can use that muslin sleeve pattern to tweak a 2-piece sleeve pattern on a new jacket pattern. I like very high armholes in my jackets, so that's another TNT "bits and pieces" pattern. My crotch curve muslin, drafted for me by a bespoke tailor pal (always good to have one of those...the bespoke tailor pal, that is!) is a TNT that I use on every pair of slacks/pants/jeans/shorts.

For storage, I have little hangers with cording that my tailor pal gifted to me. A hole punch is done through each muslin piece, the cord is inserted thru the hole, and then it's hung up on hooks or in the closet (except my closets are full so I use hooks on the wall.) I use the same hangers for storing my cardboard pattern pieces, as well.

To me, the trick with TNTs is to go basic. Design details are the icing...first you need the cake. Once you have the cake, you can ice away.

------
I heart Panzy, Pfaff Creative Performance, the sewing machine love of my life!
And Baby (Enlighten serger), Victor (BLCS), Rupert (Pfaff 2023-knits expert) Ash (B350SE-Artwork), Kee (B750QEE-Panzy's BFF), Georgie (B560-Kee's baby sister) and the Feather-Flock!

Most of all, I heart Woo (HimmyCat). Until we meet again, my beautiful little boy. I love you.

GBK

GBK  Friend of PR
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In reply to wendyrb <<


Date: 7/4/12 1:31 AM

Quote: wendyrb
Unlike previous posters, I don't use the muslin for a pattern. (...) I prefer cutting my fabric from a paper pattern that is stable.

I also transfer all changes to the paper pattern pieces. In my experience, (muslin) fabric can stretch considerably and would not hold its shape as well as paper.

------
Happy Sewing!

wendyrb
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In reply to LynnRowe <<


Date: 7/4/12 1:43 AM

Yup, there's many ways to go at it. Since I'm newly returned to sewing, and age is catching up, I have a pretty steep learning curve going. My TNT patterns are few. Lynn, you're much further along in your sewing practice than I am. So, inspiring! I'm still trying out cake recipes and one day will get to frosting. Come to think about it, I didn't bake a frosted cake until my baby was 21!

------
Always keep your words soft and sweet, just in case you have to eat them. Andy Rooney

Pfonzie- my honey Pfaff Creative Performance, Bernina 930 and 830, Evolution serger.

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