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Forum > Sewing Techniques and Tips > Placement of bra cups in a bathing suit ( Moderated by MissCelie)

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Placement of bra cups in a bathing suit
How to determine where they should be
rieski
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Date: 7/6/12 10:11 PM

I've made several bathing suits but mostly halter top styles that don't require a real 'bra'. I want to make a one-piece but I can't figure out to determine where the cups should be on the lining material. Is the lining fabric supposed to be stretched between the breasts before the cups are attached or should it be unstretched? How far above the elastic (at the bottom of the bra) should the cups be? Should the lining be pinned to an existing bathing suit, which I would put on and then figure out where the cups go? Any help or tips would be most appreciated!

2 Airedales n Me
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Date: 7/7/12 0:57 AM

I'll look forward to some responses to your question about placement of bra cups in swimsuits but I have a question for you: where did you get the bra cups? I ordered swacks of fabric from Spandex World and Spandex House but didn't think to look if they sold other "bits" to go into a swimsuit...

Thanks, Barb

Sherril Miller
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Date: 7/7/12 1:51 AM

I think the only way you'll know is to try it. However, I do know you should place them closer than you thank because they will stretch apart when worn.

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If it's worth sewing, it's worth sewing well;
and if it's worth sewing well, it's worth FITTING FIRST! - TSL

wendyrb
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In reply to 2 Airedales n Me <<


Date: 7/7/12 2:19 AM

For bra cups, I contacted Needle Nook Fabrics, a brick and mortar store owned by Ann Sinclair. When I called, she was on the road teaching bra making. The sales person was very knowledgeable, helpful and patient considering I knew zero. Plus, I wear a 36 DDD bra. We discussed all the things I would need with the bra cups and talked about making bathing suits. My package was shipped that day and soon arrived at my door.
Needle Nook for swim bra cups

I found out about this shop from the swimwear thread here on PR. It's got a number of ingenious approaches to inserting bra cups and lots of resources for all things swimwear.

I'll get back with a Burda Style link on this topic that I thought was the best and most understandable approach. It was setting bra cups in a camisole, but it directly translates to a swimsuit.

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Always keep your words soft and sweet, just in case you have to eat them. Andy Rooney

Pfonzie- my honey Pfaff Creative Performance, Bernina 930 and 830, Evolution serger.

wendyrb
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Date: 7/7/12 2:26 AM

Here's the link for the Burda Style feature on setting bra cups in a camisole. It looks cleanly done and seems sensible.
Bra cups in a cami

I agree with Sherril, you'll learn a lot by playing around until it's right for you. Good luck!

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Always keep your words soft and sweet, just in case you have to eat them. Andy Rooney

Pfonzie- my honey Pfaff Creative Performance, Bernina 930 and 830, Evolution serger.

PattyGee
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In reply to rieski <<
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Date: 7/7/12 10:04 AM

http://totallystitchin.net/articles/making-one-piece-swimsuit


Rieski - Here is a great blog regarding bra placement and swimsuit construction. HTH

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Patty
Bernina 530, Bernina 200e with upgrade 730, BL Enlighten Serger, BL Coverstitch and Juki TL-2010Q.

Lizz
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Date: 7/7/12 5:00 PM

Yikes! I just put cups into a suit this morning. I got some foam/nylon cups at Joanne's and covered them with lining fabric to extend the sides. They now can be tacked both to the front and to the sides. I got the placement by trying on the suit.

Thank you for the links. I will be reading and seeing about ordering better quality supplies than what Joanne's has to offer.

ryan's mom
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Date: 7/7/12 7:07 PM

I found it very valuable to examine a favorite bra. The first swimsuit I ever made, I used a Threads article to do my bra cups. My cups ended up being too far apart. I now put my cups together, touching at the CF points (unless as in my recent bra, there is a cutout at the CF with a lace-up front using grommets). I like a bit of cleavage showing.

As far as where to put them vertically, it's a preference type of thing. I made two swimsuit muslins before I got the bra cup and lining right. ETA...I put the bottom edge of my bra cups 3/4" above the elastic. Meaning bottom edge of bra cup, 3/4" of swimsuit bra lining, top edge of elastic.

I really like the foam swimsuit cups from SewSassy. Not the u-shaped ones, but the actual push-up style that look like real bra cups. They might actually be able to be used for both bras and swimsuits though. Can't remember exactly.
-- Edited on 7/7/12 7:08 PM --

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Big 4 Pattern size 12, RTW bottom: 6, RTW jacket 8, RTW top (no size fits me well!)
Measurements: 34 HB/36 FB (34C bra)/27.5/36 (and working hard to keep it that way.)
Machines: Sewing: Elna 760, vintage Kenmore Model 33 (1967), Janome Gem Gold 3. Sergers: Babylock Imagine and Babylock Enlighten. Embroidery Only: Janome 300E. Coverstitch: Janome CP1000. Straight Stitch: Janome 1600P.

If you think your sewing is better than everyone else's around here, get out of my way b****. I hate sewing snobs.

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rieski
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Date: 7/7/12 10:05 PM

Thank you everyone for this information. As luck would have it, I have the pattern used on the totally stitchjn site. My enthusiasm level is up after getting everyone's help and I plan to start measuring and cutting.

I got my bra cups at Sew Sassy also. They ship quickly and are very helpful.

Good luck to everyone working on a bathing suit and have fun!

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