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Forum > Fitting Woes > is this a FB or armscye problem? ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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is this a FB or armscye problem?
fitting a princess seam top
olydix
olydix
Intermediate
Washington USA
Member since 2/16/05
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Date: 7/7/12 3:52 PM

I have been working on the fit of a princess seam top (for lycra or other stretchy knits) and can't figure out what my fitting problem is under the arms. Can anyone help me? I can not find this specific problem in any of my sewing books. I am not sure if this is an armscye or full bust problem.

princess seam armhole

The top is folding under the arms like I need a bust dart and it feels a little tight in the front underarm.

Lena Merrin
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Lena Merrin
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Date: 7/7/12 6:47 PM

Could the armscyes be a bit too high for you?

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goodworks1
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goodworks1  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/7/12 7:48 PM

You might try opening the armhole seam from the mid front through the underarm and let the sleeve and bodice relax. (Put it on and take photos again.) That might help you decide what changes to make.

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simplystitches
simplystitches
New York USA
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Date: 7/7/12 9:49 PM

I'm going to go with Lena on this one. Looks like the armscye is too high.

I had the same problem when I was fitting a knit top and it looked just like that. If you feel for the seam up in the armpit does it feel as if the seam is actually hitting you into the arm or more in your pit?

Might be a sloping shoulder but the pics are too close up to tell. From what I can see I doj't think that's what it is.

Debbie

Nancy K
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Nancy K
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In reply to olydix <<


Date: 7/7/12 10:43 PM

If you can pin it out like a bust dart you need a bust dart, in other words, you need an fba. You need more room to cover your bust so it's pulling at the armscye. You should fit the bodice first then add your sleeves, which also need some adjustment.
-- Edited on 7/7/12 10:45 PM --

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AtiyaAfi
AtiyaAfi
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Date: 7/7/12 11:17 PM

Last, night by accident, I come across this YouTube video I think was meant just for you. This YouTube video by Peggy Sagers on fit is very, very good and might help you. She's a teacher of sewing. When looking at the pictures of your challenge, right off I can see a tightness on the sides at the bust and it seems the underarm on the bodice is cut too high making for a tight fit and too small an armhole which would give the pulling you have. Check out Peggy and I think you'll correct the problem in no time - explaining here would be too long to write when the video explains it perfectly. You will definitely have to do the dreaded seam ripping. Good luck.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V4Yq6xwOhPs

If the link doesn't work, go to Youtube and put in "It's Sew Easy" and look for Peggy Sagers, show 302-1 (how it's listed on the site)

wendyrb
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In reply to olydix <<


Date: 7/8/12 1:53 AM

I think you have a FB fit question to resolve. I also suspect there's an armhole/sleeve question and how that relates to you. A good rule of thumb is begin with a sleeveless bodice 1st. I agree wholeheartedly with Nancy K. Step #1- take out the sleeves. Tweak the bodice, getting the bust well fitted and comfortable.

For future reference- a shoulder princess line is easier to fit on a fuller bust than the armscye type. The dart that is taken from the armhole into the princess line will make the side panel very curvy, obvious and it can be tough to get a smoothly sewn result.

When the bodice is good, look at the armhole and reshape if needed. Establish your armhole starting at the shoulder joint and come down the front and back towards the "Y" crease where the body joins the arm. At the underarm, if your arm is pushing fabric down, the armhole is too high and needs to be cut down. Mark the new armhole stitch line on the bodice with pins or thread basting; study that for appearance and comfort sleeveless.

Again, I agree with Nancy-

Quote:
then add your sleeves, which also need some adjustment

Perhaps this sleeve is not well shaped for your body, especially shoulder position. Working with a stretchy knit, you might get away with it. I'd pin baste the sleeve into your new armhole to see what's what.

I wish you the best of luck and let us know your progress..

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Pfonzie- my honey Pfaff Creative Performance, Bernina 930 and 830, Evolution serger.

tigergirl
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In reply to AtiyaAfi <<
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Date: 7/8/12 2:03 AM

thank you for that link - I've been to her site before (I'm sure it was her site) to watch some of her videos but I found that there was so much extraneous chit chat that I had to sit through to get even a small piece of useful information that I gave up. Just started watching this one and it seems to be good.

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Marilly
Marilly
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Oregon USA
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In reply to olydix <<


Date: 7/8/12 4:48 AM

Curiosity compels me. Which pattern is this?

olydix
olydix
Intermediate
Washington USA
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In reply to olydix <<


Date: 7/8/12 12:57 PM

thanks to all for the suggestions. I think that there is both a FB and armscye problem. I have made a bunch of tops from this much modified pattern (it is the Kwik Sew princess seam camisole) and have been tweaking the fit as I go along.

Some of my fitting challenges are I am very short, overweight, and have no one to assist me in the fitting. I have also been losing weight and working at the gym for the last few months which simultaneously motivates me to attack more fitted garments and gives me grief with changing measurements (although not as much as I would like).

I took the shoulder pads out of one of the tops and that made it more comfortable, so I think I have to raise the outer shoulder seam a little. I think I will also raise the sleeve cap a little to allow more room.

I will also try enlarging the bust.

I am reluctant to enlarge the lower armscye as I am very short and armholes are always too large for me.

I do not care for shoulder princess seams, and part of the point of this pattern is to be able to use contrasting fabric for the center panels and sleeves. I have made several using contrasting fabric and they look really nice.

https://picasaweb.google.com/114469852137388093861/July82012?authuser=0&feat=directlink

The black and white top uses a straight back piece instead of the princess seamed one, which gives more room. An interesting touch on the black and white is the pieced sleeves.

I will post results of my fitting modifications when I have them made.

thanks - dixie

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