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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > removing fullness from pattern

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removing fullness from pattern
blessedtosew
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blessedtosew
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Date: 7/13/12 12:24 PM

I really love this top from anthropologie:


I finally came across a pattern that has a similar neckline--M6509-View C
I could just add a ruffle around the collar. I am concerned, though, about the fullness in the pattern. The anthropologie top is more fitted. Do you think I could use darts to remove the fullness and achieve the fitted look of the anthropologie top?

marec
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marec  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/13/12 3:44 PM

Let's see if I can get it all on the screen at once.

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marec
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marec  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/13/12 3:52 PM

Let's see if I can get it all on the screen at once.

Right click to get the photo URL and when it shows up after clicking on the image button, insert width=300 before the >

HTH, and hope you get an answer for your sewing question! :-)

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my blog: http://kf-biblioblog.blogspot.com/
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Miss Fairchild
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Miss Fairchild  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/13/12 3:59 PM

Thank you, MareC for making those smaller!

Blessed, here's my answer:
The McCall's pattern View C doesn't have gathering at the neck, like the Antrhopologie does. I'm not sure how advanced you are, but this would require removing fullness near the hip and hem and rotating some of that fullness to the neckline, to create the gathers.

Also, the sleeves on the McCall's pattern look much fuller than the one you want to make, and that would require some major work. I'd suggest you find a pattern with a little less fullness, especially in the sleeves.

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blessedtosew
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blessedtosew
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In reply to marec <<


Date: 7/13/12 4:10 PM

Thank you for making that smaller. I had no idea how

marec
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In reply to blessedtosew <<


Date: 7/13/12 4:14 PM

blessedtosew, You will have to go into your original post and edit it to make your picture smaller. Then all the replies to your question will show on one screen and not scroll horizontally. Give it a try and I'll be here if you get stuck.

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my blog: http://kf-biblioblog.blogspot.com/
Sewing through my pattern stash-145
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shana707

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In reply to blessedtosew <<


Date: 7/14/12 9:09 AM

I love it, too! Do you have a TNT tee pattern? If you do, you might try slashing it at the neckline to get the gathers. The ruffles are a simple strip. I think this would be easier than trying to find and fit a new pattern. I'm going to dig out some expendable knit fabric and try it.
I've been assuming that the shirt was made up in a knit. If it's woven, a rayon challis would be lovely. I really have to try this (again using a TNT). Thanks for posting the picture!
-- Edited on 7/14/12 9:46 AM --

sings2high
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sings2high  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/14/12 10:29 AM

What you're looking at is a tee pattern with a bound vee-neckline where the gathers are sewn into the binding at the bottom of the vee, so it actually lays quite flat around the neck. Last year, you could hardly find a vee-necked pattern without the gathers there, this year they are hard to find. The closest patterns for this I could find are KwikSewPatterns 3378, view C and McCalls 6470. Both have short sleeved versions, the KwikSew pattern would need a binding added to the neckline, very easy to do. You would not need to remove any fullness from this pattern. The McCalls looks much fuller, has raglan sleeves and you would gather it instead of pleating into the neckline binding. This one you might consider removing fullness from. I would go the simpler route with the KwikSew.

The neck ruffle is a straight piece, gathered onto a central cord and stitched into place. How to do this? Once the neckline is made (do the shoulder seams first and leave the side seams unsewn until later), put it on, drape your measuring tape around your neck following the neckline around the back and measure from point to point where you want the ruffle to reach in the front. That measurement times two is how long to cut the fabric. For width, estimate the depth of ruffle plus allowances for hemming, times two, plus the width of the cording pocket down the middle. You can use a self-fabric for the cording pocket or just stitch some bias binding down the center length on the back side of the ruffle. If you are making a self cord, cut that four times the distance you measured at the neckline; width will be the desired width of the cord plus a 1/4" seam allowance, times two.

For the sleeve ruffles, measure from underarm seam to underarm seam along the sleeve hem. That, times two is the length of your ruffle. The ruffle should be visually about the same depth as one of the ruffles around the neck, remember to add allowances for seam and hem. It looks like a double ruffle, so cut the second ruffle slightly wider than the first so you see both. For ease of construction, I advise you to hem them both, lay the shorter one on top of the longer one, raw edges even, both with right sides facing you and gather the raw edges as one unit. Then sew the ruffle onto the sleeve hems while it lays flat and stitch up the side seams last.

Have fun!

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blessedtosew
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In reply to sings2high <<


Date: 7/14/12 5:32 PM

Thank you so much for explaining this. I am going to print this out.

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