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Changing gathers to double dart
fractal
fractal
Intermediate
UNITED KINGDOM
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Date: 7/15/12 1:30 PM

I have made a muslin of McCall's 6503 view D, the denim one in this picture

M6503

It fits pretty well on the bust (I'm a DD cup) and waist and I like the pleats. However, I would really like to eliminate the gathers above the midriff and put in darts instead. My ribcage is quite small so it would be more flattering than this gathered billowy style.

Is it OK to put in a double vertical dart and, if so, would you put one either side of the bust point? Or would two pleats be better? I am wondering whether to line them up with the pleats below the midriff band.
-- Edited on 7/15/12 1:32 PM --
-- Edited on 7/15/12 1:33 PM --

Lena Merrin
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Lena Merrin
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Date: 7/15/12 6:57 PM

Yes drafting two darts would work well in my opinion

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wendyrb
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In reply to fractal <<


Date: 7/15/12 7:12 PM

I agree the 2 darts would work there. I'd place one on either side of the bust point and try to line them up with the skirt pleats beneath the band. You could also consider something in between a folded tuck and a fully stitched dart. Form the darts, but only stitch them inside part way, not to the end point. You get a good deal of the controlled dart fit aiming toward the bust point, but the fullness releases softly like a tuck. Try it on yourself to see how it works with the option to stitch the dart completely if you prefer. I'm also full busted and used this combination tuck/dart with a midriff band to achieve a very flattering fit. Good luck!

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Courtney Ostaff
Courtney Ostaff
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Date: 7/15/12 7:30 PM

Yes, 2 darts would be good, and I'd line them up with the pleats.

fractal
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Date: 7/16/12 4:36 PM

Really helpful replies - thank you so much :)

Sharon1952
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Subject: Topic moved Date: 7/16/12 4:56 PM

This topic has been moved from Patterns and Notions to Fitting Woes

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Miss Fairchild
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In reply to fractal <<


Date: 7/16/12 5:26 PM

Maybe even a few more darts, like maybe 4? I once worked on a Vogue blouse that had about six tiny vertical darts in the front and back. It fitted very nicely.

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