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Message Board > Fitting Woes > FBA issues on McCall's 6350 ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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FBA issues on McCall's 6350
Pointy Ridge City
j Renee Design
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j Renee Design
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Date: 7/19/12 12:36 PM

Hey all! I'm making McCall's 6350 and am having a serious pointy dart issue.

This is a multi cup sized pattern (I used the D cup), and then did a bunch of alterations to get it to sit close to my body on and under the bust, including separating the singular vertical bust dart into two darts to hopefully alleviate the pointy issue that I've seen is a problem for many folks with pattern (I moved half of the fullness into a side bust dart).

However, because of all of the alterations, my two darts are...really pointy again. Now more like a ridge between the two ends of the darts instead of a point. I've ended my darts the standard 1"-1/4" (standard according to my pattern drafting book) away from the bust point. Besides this apex issue, the cup fits beautifully.

Any ideas? Because of my full bust do I need to end the darts further away from the bust point? Would curving the sewing line of the dart work well? Any help would be appreciated - I'm on my 5th bodice muslin and hoping to be set to sew the actual dress soon! :)

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Jess
Sewing, Knitting, Living: http://www.sometimessewist.wordpress.com

2013 - Bought: 181, Used: 96, Stashed: 85
2014 - Carryover: 85, Bought: 22 3/4, Used: 52 1/8, Stashed: 56 5/8

Silk Challis
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Subject: FBA issues on McCalls 6350 Date: 7/19/12 6:26 PM

Yes, you had the right intuition: darts end further away from the bust point for fuller busts. The actual amount depends on the case. It can even be 3".

wendyrb
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In reply to j Renee Design <<


Date: 7/19/12 6:55 PM

For a fuller bust, yes the bust circle around the center apex can be further out. Release the dart and drape it in on yourself. Hold it in place with a few pins to see what radius works for you. Try starting with about 2 inches, give or take. This will give a softer roundness to the end of the dart. The curved stitching also is a help.

The other affect of shortening the dart is that you increase the angle of it. That means it forms a more dramatic cupping usually that is more pointy. The longer a dart, the smaller the angle at the end. It's always trade offs. It sounds like you've accomplished a lot in your 5 muslins. After the above suggestion, I say cut a garment, wear it and enjoy. Next time you may be able to push the fitting further along, but you done good!

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Always keep your words soft and sweet, just in case you have to eat them. Andy Rooney

Pfonzie- my honey Pfaff Creative Performance, Bernina 930 and 830, Evolution serger.

Courtney Ostaff
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Subject: FBA issues on McCalls 6350 Date: 7/19/12 8:17 PM

You might use a curved dart to avoid this problem.

See also:
https://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4483/to-get-the-right-armhole-fit-the-bodice/page/all

j Renee Design
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Date: 7/24/12 4:51 PM

Thanks for all of your help! I used a curved dart and it was so much better. I also decided enough messing around was enough and finally cut and sewed the dang thing up and posted a review today. :)

------
Jess
Sewing, Knitting, Living: http://www.sometimessewist.wordpress.com

2013 - Bought: 181, Used: 96, Stashed: 85
2014 - Carryover: 85, Bought: 22 3/4, Used: 52 1/8, Stashed: 56 5/8

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