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Jeans fitting
Back crotch diagonal wrinkles
ryan's mom
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Date: 7/24/12 8:47 AM

Can somebody help me locate this info? Belinda (Sew4Fun) had info on her blog about sliding the pattern leg over to remove some of the wrinkles under the butt. The pattern leg is cut horizontally but I can't remember:

A. If it is cut below or above the crotch line, and
B. If the lower piece is sliding out a 1/2" toward the side seam or in toward the crotch line.

The alteration had something to do with stance and the draft of a pattern. Her blog is closed down now, so any help with locating this info would be greatly appreciated.

I'd like to compare it to Jennifer Stern's info to see if it is the same alteration. To remove the wrinkles the leg piece is moved closer to the center of the body, yes? I'm close to solving this issue on my daughter's jeans, but I think this is key to getting a good fit for her.

ETA, I've already searched the Knowledge base but can't locate what I'm looking for.
-- Edited on 7/24/12 8:51 AM --

------
Big 4 Pattern size 12, RTW bottom: 6, RTW jacket 8, RTW top (no size fits me well!)
Measurements: 34 HB/36 FB (34C bra)/27.5/36 (and working hard to keep it that way.)
Machines: Sewing: Elna 760, vintage Kenmore Model 33 (1967), Janome Gem Gold 3, Singer Model 99, Singer 221/Featherweight. Sergers: Babylock Imagine and Babylock Enlighten. Embroidery Only: Janome 300E. Embroidery/Sewing Combo: Brother Dream machine. Coverstitch: Babylock BLCS. Straight Stitch: Janome 1600P.

If you think your sewing is better than everyone else's around here, get out of my way b****. I hate sewing snobs.

My blog: www.phatchickdesigns.blogspot.com

woggy
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In reply to ryan's mom <<
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Date: 7/24/12 12:10 PM

Belinda's blog shows the leg cut a few inches below the crotch seam and the lower part of the leg is moved towards the inseam. She does not recommend moving it more than 1/2 inch.

This is not the same as Jennifer's alteration. It looks as if Jen's alteration is changing the angle of the center back seam.

Debbie Cook's blog discusses Belinda's alteration under the Minnott method. You will also find a discussion about Minnott on PR from a few years ago. You might have to search under Minott or Minnot depending how the name was typed.

Minnott suggests the front leg and back leg moved the same amount. Some folks on this site have only moved the back leg and it seems to work. Others need to move the front and back leg the same amount.

However, my experience with this alteration is that I had to add to the back extension to make it work. Just shifting the leg inward was not enough for my shape.

I have a friend who is working on a tutorial for drafting pants. She sends me emails to review. One of the most important sentences I think she wrote was to make sure the center line of the pants leg is in the middle of your leg from the knee down. Knock knees throws off this center line causing wrinkles in the back. Wide hips also throws off this center line.

To me, the Minnott alteration is changing the "pitch" of the leg. Another way to change the pitch of the leg is to dart the material out starting at the inseam over to the side seam. Removing more material from the inseam also causes the leg to pitch towards the inseam. Sandra Betzina's Fast Fit books shows this alteration. This alteration is also called the "clown butt alteration" on PR. A tip is posted about this alteration with pictures. Diane posted this tip years ago.

HTH

Woggy


ryan's mom
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In reply to woggy <<


Date: 7/24/12 12:26 PM

woggy, thanks SO much! Yes, this is exactly what I'm looking for. Just to change the leg, not the angle of the CB seam.

------
Big 4 Pattern size 12, RTW bottom: 6, RTW jacket 8, RTW top (no size fits me well!)
Measurements: 34 HB/36 FB (34C bra)/27.5/36 (and working hard to keep it that way.)
Machines: Sewing: Elna 760, vintage Kenmore Model 33 (1967), Janome Gem Gold 3, Singer Model 99, Singer 221/Featherweight. Sergers: Babylock Imagine and Babylock Enlighten. Embroidery Only: Janome 300E. Embroidery/Sewing Combo: Brother Dream machine. Coverstitch: Babylock BLCS. Straight Stitch: Janome 1600P.

If you think your sewing is better than everyone else's around here, get out of my way b****. I hate sewing snobs.

My blog: www.phatchickdesigns.blogspot.com

woggy
woggy  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
Pennsylvania USA
Member since 8/15/04
Posts: 707
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In reply to ryan's mom <<
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Date: 7/24/12 12:32 PM

I read Jen's site again on her alteration.

I think Jen's alteration might work for some shapes. I have no idea what these shapes look like. Jen does mention that she was going to increase the crotch extension to try to remove the rest of the wrinkles.

Minnott's method does not change the center back seam. Minnott's method is moving the center of the leg over on the person's body.

Woggy

woggy
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In reply to ryan's mom <<


Date: 7/24/12 12:37 PM

Ryan;s mom,

Check out the posting I did on 9/6/06 under Pattern Modifications. The title of my post is:

Help with understanding pants alteration

The picture of the Minnott method is still there for you to see.

I don't know how to link the post.

Woggy

ryan's mom
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Date: 7/24/12 5:24 PM

Thanks woggy! I google searched your post and found it. I think this is the answer! I fit my daughter in a 14 and alter it. She is really a pattern size 12 or 14, even though her hip size puts her at an 18. She's hippy, but overall on the thin side. Using anything larger than a 14 is uncontrollably baggy.

I'm starting with the backside only and shifting to the center. Her wrinkles are just like diagram 3 and I've already added to the back inseam.

------
Big 4 Pattern size 12, RTW bottom: 6, RTW jacket 8, RTW top (no size fits me well!)
Measurements: 34 HB/36 FB (34C bra)/27.5/36 (and working hard to keep it that way.)
Machines: Sewing: Elna 760, vintage Kenmore Model 33 (1967), Janome Gem Gold 3, Singer Model 99, Singer 221/Featherweight. Sergers: Babylock Imagine and Babylock Enlighten. Embroidery Only: Janome 300E. Embroidery/Sewing Combo: Brother Dream machine. Coverstitch: Babylock BLCS. Straight Stitch: Janome 1600P.

If you think your sewing is better than everyone else's around here, get out of my way b****. I hate sewing snobs.

My blog: www.phatchickdesigns.blogspot.com

Nancy K
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Nancy K
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In reply to ryan's mom <<


Date: 7/24/12 8:58 PM

Stern isn't doing the same thing. I would approach this issue differently,but there is no one way to get to the same end.
The Minott adjustment that Debby shows is for either knocknees or full inner thighs. It creates more room for your inner thigh and the slice is below the crotch. If I remember correctly this wasn't Belinda's issue, she certainly doesn't have full inner thighs or knock knees. Why don't you post some photos of your pants?

------
www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

ryan's mom
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In reply to Nancy K <<


Date: 7/24/12 9:58 PM

I believe Belinda's issue were diagonal wrinkles under the seat. She mentioned her stance (legs together as opposed to legs wider apart). I believe her alteration was the same as the Minott method. I'm actually making my daughter shorts and am getting the back crotch issue "almost" resolved. I've greatly improved the fit, but am now looking at the full inner thigh issue regarding the Minott method. She does have fuller inner thighs than me. I love this challenge of fitting her and feel this method is going to resolve it the remaining wrinkles.

ETA, I didn't feel Stern's alteration was the same but wasn't 100% sure. Now I know it is definitely different. I'm not touching that CB seam right now. It's perfect as is. Just doing a bit of back crotch tweaking.
-- Edited on 7/24/12 10:00 PM --

------
Big 4 Pattern size 12, RTW bottom: 6, RTW jacket 8, RTW top (no size fits me well!)
Measurements: 34 HB/36 FB (34C bra)/27.5/36 (and working hard to keep it that way.)
Machines: Sewing: Elna 760, vintage Kenmore Model 33 (1967), Janome Gem Gold 3, Singer Model 99, Singer 221/Featherweight. Sergers: Babylock Imagine and Babylock Enlighten. Embroidery Only: Janome 300E. Embroidery/Sewing Combo: Brother Dream machine. Coverstitch: Babylock BLCS. Straight Stitch: Janome 1600P.

If you think your sewing is better than everyone else's around here, get out of my way b****. I hate sewing snobs.

My blog: www.phatchickdesigns.blogspot.com

woggy
woggy  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
Pennsylvania USA
Member since 8/15/04
Posts: 707
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In reply to Nancy K <<
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Date: 7/25/12 7:12 AM

Nancy,

The Minott method isn't just for full inner thighs.

I do not have full inner thighs but I have a diamond shape figure. I have wide hips and my knees touch at times when walking.

Wide hips can cause wrinkles in the back of the pants leg - the pants leg fall against the leg causing these wrinkles. Wide hips are different than full hips. I am wide from side to side but I have a flat fanny.

Jan states in her book "People who need to make this adjustment have legs that touch together at the thigh, knee or calves when walking or standing normally." She states many diamond and heart shapes would need to make this alteration due to wide hips from side to side.

I eliminated these wrinkles in the back of pants once I altered my pants leg so the center of the pattern leg matched the center of my leg.

Woggy

ryan's mom
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In reply to woggy <<


Date: 7/25/12 3:21 PM

Thx again, woggy. I know when Belinda/sew4fun did this alteration and displayed it on her blog, it was very interesting because she is not heavy at all but it seemed to work very well for her. I'll post how it goes. Almost there with getting her shorts just right.

Very interesting because one can be thin and still have a diamond shape. So many different shapes we all have!

------
Big 4 Pattern size 12, RTW bottom: 6, RTW jacket 8, RTW top (no size fits me well!)
Measurements: 34 HB/36 FB (34C bra)/27.5/36 (and working hard to keep it that way.)
Machines: Sewing: Elna 760, vintage Kenmore Model 33 (1967), Janome Gem Gold 3, Singer Model 99, Singer 221/Featherweight. Sergers: Babylock Imagine and Babylock Enlighten. Embroidery Only: Janome 300E. Embroidery/Sewing Combo: Brother Dream machine. Coverstitch: Babylock BLCS. Straight Stitch: Janome 1600P.

If you think your sewing is better than everyone else's around here, get out of my way b****. I hate sewing snobs.

My blog: www.phatchickdesigns.blogspot.com

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