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Forum > Fitting Woes > Help fitting Cowl Tops, Please ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Help fitting Cowl Tops, Please
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idahodogs
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idahodogs
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Date: 7/25/12 0:26 AM

I just made muslins of two cowl-neck tops, New Look 6108 (cowl tank), and New Look 6981 (cowl tee). I cut both tops in a size 8, although they are not the same size, as the tee has 1/2 inch of ease and the tank has 3 1/2. I've never worn anything with this style neckline, so I'm not really sure how it's supposed to fit.

Both tops gap at the back neckline, but I'm not sure whether that is because a) I didn't stabilize the hems and maybe they got stretched out, or b) I have narrow shoulders and the neck would lie flat if the sleeves lay further apart. There are no obvious wrinkles between my shoulders, but given that these are knits (which I am not familiar with), maybe there wouldn't be?

Also, I find that both tops have horizontal wrinkles between my boobs. Maybe that is a given with a loose neck like a cowl? Again, I am not familiar enough with knits or this style to know, but it looks weird to me. I wear a DD bra, so I'm used to bust issues, but I don't know what these wrinkles mean.

Sorry I don't have any pictures, I hope my description is clear enough that someone can help me figure this out!

marec
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Date: 7/25/12 4:27 PM

Those are really cute patterns! My answer depends on the type of knit you used. You know, some are super stretchy and others not so much. For myself, I have narrow shoulders and always do that adjustment. So, I'd start there. Then, you can adjust for your bust. The horizontal wrinkles indicate not enough room. HTH! Post some pictures if you can because I'm sure others would love to chime in.
-- Edited on 7/25/12 4:28 PM --

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sarah in nyc

sarah in nyc
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In reply to idahodogs <<


Date: 7/25/12 6:13 PM

You can quick and dirty the back neck fit with a bit of elastic...and get the job done in five minutes. There are other solutions as well...but this will get the back neck snug for you.

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idahodogs
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idahodogs
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Date: 7/25/12 11:24 PM

The fabric I used is cotton jersey, pretty stretchy and not great recovery. Not really quality stuff, that's why I used it for the muslins. The 'real' fabric is also a stretchy cotton jersey, but it's a bit nicer.

I didn't stabilize or reinforce the necklines, although I did cut the binding a little shorter than the neckline and stretched it while I sewed it on (a la the Threads video). I'm not a fan of clear elastic, but I think I'll use some Steam a Seam next time.

ETA: I'm now pretty sure that I have both a stretching problem and a fitting problem... when I pinch out a wedge at the top-inside of the shoulder, the fit improves. I don't know what that means about me, tho. My ideas are 1) above-bust petite adjustment, 2) narrow shoulders, 3) FBA. Maybe all of the above

Marec, do you do a narrow shoulder adjustment on every pattern right away, or do you test them as-is first?
-- Edited on 7/26/12 1:25 AM --
-- Edited on 7/26/12 11:01 AM --

marec
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In reply to idahodogs <<


Date: 7/26/12 3:29 PM

Quote:
Marec, do you do a narrow shoulder adjustment on every pattern right away, or do you test them as-is first?


I tissue fit in a rough way every time. I'll pin the tissue to my cami using the center line and the waist marking as guides. Then I check the bust point, the distance between armhole and shoulder, and the length of the shoulder. I almost always have to do a petite adj between the armhole and shoulder to decrease distance, and narrow the shoulder itself. This year I have moved the bust point down a bit.

This takes me about 10 minutes.

I am a B cup so no FBA for me-that will add to your alterations but should become second nature after a bit.

The cotton jersey you are using is most likely causing part of your woes. I would suggest starting with a more stable knit to practice sewing with knits. I love double knits and ottoman knits. Both are sturdy and forgiving of errors. They work best with designs that are structural or plain.

Good luck and hang in there. Use a different type of knit and try the alterations I listed.

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Leu
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Date: 9/13/12 2:35 PM

I am wondering if you ever worked this top out to fit nicely? I have your measurements (DD) and am working on McCalls 6078 and having the same bust issue, a wide sloping wrinkle from one boob to the other. I have tried straight stitching along the cowl where a v neck would fit and pulling this thread into the shoulder area, but that only created a gathered look where there should be drape and didn't fix the whole hanging bridge between the boobs problem
Pic.

Leu

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In reply to Leu <<


Date: 9/13/12 3:37 PM

Looks as though you need to do a full bust adjustment (FBA) to add just enough fabric to let the top fall free from your bosom, rather than hanging up there. There are various techniques.

Here is a standard one.

Here's another.

Marcy Tilton has a series of youtube videos demonstrating
how to fit a tee.

Finally, if you're working with a knit and all you need is just a little bit more fullness and length for the bust, you can locate your bust point, and draw a true horizontal line through it all the way across the front pattern piece. Then you cut along that line and spread the pieces apart about half an inch, filling in the gap with another piece of paper (this will of course make your front side seam 1/2" longer than the back side seam). You make a little 1/4" outward curve in the side seam right at bosom level, and when you sew the side seam, you slightly gather this extra fullness, which will make the the front side seam once again the same length as the back side seam.

Just as a note about sizing, Connie Crawford has an article on fitting T-shirts in the November 2010 issue of Threads magazine where she states that a good t-shirt pattern should be 1/2" bigger across the front than the back. It makes sense, because we don't have boobs in back.
-- Edited on 9/13/12 4:13 PM --

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