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Message Board > Plus Size Sewing > plus size grading ( Moderated by JEF)

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plus size grading
slip pattern
AdaH
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AdaH  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/25/12 12:44 PM

This probably should go under Misc, rants but I feel more at home on this board.
I just finished a muslin for a full slip. I have been thinking about making a full slip for months as I have a dress that needs one so I can wear it out of the house.
Last week there was a discussion about slips on one of the boards, which got my mojo going to start the slip project.
Here is the rant. Just because I am a plus size does not mean that my shoulders are linebacker size. It is that old grading bigger thing. I used Vogue pattern 7837. View G


The first thing I failed to do is follow my rule and really study the picture on the envelope. If I had I would have known that the straps of the slip are sitting on the outside of the shoulder and not in the middle. I know there are going to be issues when any garment has the shoulders why out at the end of the shoulder. Grrrrrrr When it gets graded out to fit a plus size that mean those straps will probably be falling off my shoulder.

I also had to convert the dart to gathers as it was easier than messing with the dart to get it in the right place. The back of the slip is way to sloppy…has no shaping whats so ever. Oh and the angle of the straps is wrong for my shape. If I keep on with this muslin I will have to rework that also. I have to remind myself that this was a muslin but in the back of my mind I was so sure it was going to be a wearable muslin first time around. Not!

The next question is: should I keep working on this muslin till it fits or should I try a Kwik Sew pattern. I know that KS patterns are always too wide for me in the shoulder so will fix that before I cut it out.
Any good suggestions on a slip pattern for a plus size?

-- Edited on 7/25/12 12:47 PM --
-- Edited on 7/25/12 12:49 PM --

------
Ada

rmusic1
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rmusic1
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Date: 7/25/12 12:58 PM

well, this burda one worked well for me. I made it both for myself (size 12 bust and 16 waist) and for my sister who is blessed with more curves than me and is a size 20 hips. and 16 bust.

I must say she looked lovely in it, and it fit her well. The pattern went up to an 18 (am not sure what size you are) but I found it easy to grade up for the hips by splitting the difference between all the seams. It was only a little on each one.

This pattern does have shaping, although I found for myself I had to take in the back seams (I carry my weight at the front, and not my back).

I've used my slip a lot, and found the length just right for my height (1.8 meters). Good luck finding the right pattern, I hope you like the one I have suggested.

AdaH
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AdaH  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/27/12 11:51 AM

rmusic1, that pattern is OOP. darn.

A sewing friend came to visit and helped me drap the slip muslin. We took it in a 1/2" on each side. Then took external darts on the front and back strap. Kind of amazing how those external darts fixed what felt like a major problem when I first tried the thing on.

I now have a slip. Next I need to find some slip fabric. Will try and search the boards but I am never very good at finding things when I do a search. I must have a nack for using the wrong search word(s).
-- Edited on 7/27/12 11:53 AM --

------
Ada

crazygrad
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Date: 7/27/12 1:32 PM

KwikSew 2930 may be good. Hard to tell from a drawing how wide it is really drafted.

And as a very broad shouldered gal... I get the linebacker comment all the time.

rmusic1
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rmusic1
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In reply to AdaH <<


Date: 7/27/12 2:28 PM

hi adaH

What a shame it is out of print. In terms of finding a slip fabric, I used a lovely silk stretch satin which worked beautifully for the slip I made. The one for my sister (which I posted the link for) is made out silk crepe with stretch. Its nice material to work with, and it is lovely to wear.

Good luck with finishing your final version. I have had lots of use out of mine.

MagnoliaHoney
MagnoliaHoney
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Date: 7/27/12 2:32 PM

I almost always use tricot from needle nook fabrics. She has a ton of colors, and hand dyes her laces to match.

------
Visit my blog http://www.heathersprairie.blogspot.com

AdaH
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AdaH  Friend of PR
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In reply to MagnoliaHoney <<


Date: 7/29/12 11:47 AM

MagnoliaHoney, Does Needle Nook ship do over the phone orders?

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Ada

Kathi R
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Kathi R  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/30/12 11:51 AM

You might want to look at this site --- 40 denier nylon is perfect for slips....

Fabric Depot - great resource for lingerie fabrics

I went on a slip binge last year and had a great time collecting all the pieces needed, scrounging around for lingerie patterns and making a wardrobe of slips and camisoles. Tricot comes really wide -- so a yard goes a long way.

Good luck.

------
2012 : starting stash 386, net additions 206, used 164, ending stash 428...I'm never going to get in front of this pile of fabric!

crazygrad
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In reply to Kathi R <<


Date: 7/30/12 12:17 PM

They have nice selections of lace, stretch lace, FOE and other elastics too.

I've ordered from them, and the service was very good.

AdaH
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AdaH  Friend of PR
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In reply to Kathi R <<


Date: 7/30/12 6:03 PM

what is your favorite slip pattern?

------
Ada

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