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Message Board > Sewing Techniques and Tips > Tutorial for Underlining with Enclosed Seams ( Moderated by MissCelie)

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Tutorial for Underlining with Enclosed Seams
Where have I seen this??
wenznz
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wenznz  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/25/12 8:52 PM

I recently came across a tutorial for underlining a garment, that also enclosed the seams between the main fabric and the underlining .... but do you think I can remember where I saw it?!

It essentially involved sewing the garment together in a slightly different way to achieve this, but I would like to refer to it to see the details.
When I first read it, it wasn't something I was needing to do, so I didn't pay close attention. Now that I do, I can't find it.

Does anyone have a suggestion of where to look, or have you seen this or a similar tutorial somewhere?
Many thanks in advance for any and all help.

------
Wendy
Wellington, New Zealand

wenznz
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In reply to wenznz <<


Date: 7/26/12 2:24 AM

To clarify what I recall, the fabric and lining/underlining was sewn as one as you would if you were underlining, but gave the impression of a lining when it was finished with all the seams between the fabric and lining.

It went something along the lines of having the fabric RST, then the lining of the upper piece on top of it's matching fabric and the lining for the lower fabric piece on top of that again with the lining pieces RST, so that when it was stitched and laid out flat, the seam is enclosed and it all looks neat and tidy.

(sorry for the long-winded explanation, which I hope makes a little bit of sense
)

------
Wendy
Wellington, New Zealand

Lynnelle
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Date: 7/26/12 9:12 AM

Perhaps you are referring to Shannon Gifford's Stitch-n-Flip method. She explains the method in an older Threads article. You might be able to find it on their website.

nicegirl
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Date: 7/26/12 9:25 AM

You cut your underlining 3/8 inch wider than the fashion fabric, sew underlining and lining right sides together, and then turn it right side out and sew as one (described here). This works best on patterns with relatively long, straight vertical seams, like this skirt. I don't think it would work well on a princess seam, for instance.


-- Edited on 7/26/12 9:27 AM --

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http://theslapdashsewist.blogspot.com
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2007: purchased 115+, sewed 105+
So close to parity, yet so far

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Sewliz
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In reply to wenznz <<


Date: 7/26/12 10:39 AM

Shannon Gifford's article in Threads, Line and Underline in One Step shows this method with a jacket.

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Liz

thefittinglife.blogspot.com

KD in ATL

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Date: 7/26/12 8:10 PM

Actually, the Shannon Gifford method is one she calls "stitch &flip". It is not quite the same thing as using the underlining to end up enclosing the seam allowances with the fake Hong Kong finish. In that technique, the pattern pieces stay separate, and then you seam them together as usual. In Shannon's method, the seam allowances get enclosed in the process of seaming the pieces together.

goodworks1
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Date: 7/26/12 9:33 PM

I read something similar on the newest ASG Notions that just arrived this week. I think Eve Kovacs wrote the article.

She credits the original idea to Sandra Betzina, I think.

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blog: goodworks1.wordpress.com

a7yrstitch
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In reply to nicegirl <<


Date: 7/26/12 9:51 PM

Nicegirl, I've done what would probably be considered a primitive version of the Faux Hong Kong Finish.

Sewn underlining to fashion fabric right sides together. Standard cutting, not with extra width on any seam allowances. Made 1/4 inch seams.

For each now joined piece, pressed the seams open, flip, folded, pressed, trim any straggles of frayed threads that extend beyond the 1/4 inch seam (doing all of this carefully as you would a French seam). Then finish the garment by stitching those individual joined pieces with 3/8" seams.

After the previously joined pieces are stitched together, choose to press the seams open or press the seams closed. If the seams are pressed closed you can option to then stitch the encased seam allowances together at the edge.

------
I have no idea what Apple thought I was saying so be a Peach and credit anything bizarre to auto correct.

wenznz
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Date: 7/26/12 10:23 PM

Lynnelle and SewLiz - Thank you! This was just the article I was thinking of.

NiceGirl - I have this technique in a book by Lynda Maynard, and have tried it on a skirt. It worked really nicely, and would definitely do it again. I agree it is best suited to straighter seams though.

7yr - interesting. I'll have to consider this idea too.

------
Wendy
Wellington, New Zealand

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