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Forum > Fitting Woes > Big pleat at neckline, help!! ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Big pleat at neckline, help!!
sewmore
sewmore
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Date: 7/26/12 10:23 AM

When I tried on this tunic after sewing the collar but before sewing the sleeves, this big pleat appeared on each side of the collar. What causes that and how do I fix it? I sure hope it isn't the collar as for once, it turned out right. It is a princess seam tunic with the seam at the shoulder. Thanks for your help.
-- Edited on 7/26/12 10:29 AM --

cinca
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In reply to sewmore <<


Date: 7/26/12 1:49 PM

You know, that photo looks like one of my most frequent problems in the past.

It is not the collar, but for me, it required removing the collar, so I can retune the neckline.

I will tell you what I do, for this, but wait until you get many more opinions than mine, before you start to correct it.

I would take off the collar, and estimate how much deeper to cut the neckline at the sides to remove that extra fabric which is folded into the pleat. You will need to taper back to the existing neckline at the front and back, if these two areas are fitting well.

For me it usually occurs farther toward the back of the neckline, but it sure does look like the same problem.

And it might be appropriate to take in a little more fabric at the neckline end of the shoulder seam. Maybe pin the collar back on in the new placement before you trim the fabric off.

Also, you may need to try adjusting where to shoulder seam is placed along the collar seam. It is going to take a little analysis.

Since the problem showed after you sewed in the sleeves, I really wonder if it has something to do with the placement of the shoulder seam along the collar edge.

Hope this helps.
-- Edited on 7/26/12 1:50 PM --

Nancy K
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In reply to sewmore <<


Date: 7/26/12 4:46 PM

This would be easier to see if I could see your whole body or at least the part that is covered by your garment. I see the pleat but it's hard to see why it's pleating. A straight on front and back and side views would be a big help.

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sewmore
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In reply to Nancy K <<


Date: 7/27/12 10:35 AM

Thanks for your replies, Cinca and Nancy. I really appreciate your willingness to help. I am posting some additional photos of the tunic. I have to say, that after seeing the pictures, this might be a "back yard only" top. That being said, I would like to determine the cause of the problem. I am returning to garment sewing after a long hiatus and with a vintage body. I tried pinching the should seam up a bit with pins and that seemed to help. Thanks again!






-- Edited on 7/27/12 10:47 AM --

sewmore
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Date: 7/27/12 11:50 AM

Cinca, Thanks for your comments about how you solved the problem, working with both the neck and shoulder seams. I was surprised when I looked at the picture of my back and saw how the flowers arched across instead of going in a straighter line. I compared the slope of the tunic shoulder to the slope of a shirt I made and found that it is about 1/2 inches greater. When I lifted the shoulder seam at the arm, the flowers straightened, and the fit improved. But I am still left with the wrinkle. I looked more carefully at the shirt and realized it had a very small pleat along the neck, which I had never noticed. I guess I will have to bite the bullet and remove the collar on the tunic, ugh!

SVN
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Date: 7/27/12 2:18 PM

Looks like your shoulders slope more than the pattern. Perhaps the pattern was intended for shoulder pads? Stick some in and see if that solves it.
If it does, but you don't want pads in your shirt, sew the shoulder seam again, deepening it progressively as you move toward the shoulder point.

Miss Fairchild
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In reply to sewmore <<


Date: 7/27/12 2:33 PM

After watching several Peggy Sagers webcasts, and hearing her drill into us that everything hinges on Length, Circumference and Depth, and then uses the example of a depth issue showing a dart, Depth = Dart, this tells me it's a depth issue and has to do with the angle of your shoulder.

My first thought was for you to recut your neckline, but then you'd have to redraw the collar, which is beautiful, by the way. But then when I got into "Peggy Mode", I realized I have this same problem, but only on my back. And it all starts from the shoulder, which is a dart.

Here's what I would do: Measure the depth of the pleat as it goes up toward the neck (It looks to me like about 1/2" at its fullest and tapers up to the neck about 1/4") Then release your shoulder seam, up to a little short of the neckline. Raise the seam allowance on just the front piece only, the amount of the pleat, starting at the armhole, and tapering to the neck area. (If you take a look at the pleat, you'll see that it is fatter toward the bottom; you're going to move this fullness to the shoulder seam. ) Your armhole portion of the seam allowance on the shoulder should extend over the back seam allowance about 1/2" and it should taper as you go up to the neck, to 1/4". Lower the front underarm seam by 1/2" and taper it to the back, just a bit past the underarm seam allowance. Or you can redraw the armscye to maintain the shape.

I have to do this on my right side back every time, which is the reverse of what I told you.

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cinca
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In reply to sewmore <<


Date: 7/27/12 11:27 PM

You are very welcomed.

If you have a pleat in the neck seam, it makes me wonder if the fabric in the collar seam were released and smoothed out, perhaps that would bring the shoulder seam forward a bit and that might contribute to getting a better placement for your neckline along the collar. You won't necessarily have to remake the collar to reset it. Sometimes you can just ease the neckline onto the collar differently. But I have had to make a new collar in the past.

Hope it turns out that simple.

Miss Fairchild's cure could also be the answer. It certainly makes sense. These things require a bit of detective work, sometimes.

It is a very nice looking shirt and a flattering design.


Marie367
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Date: 7/28/12 8:26 AM

What pattern is this?I like it! I agree with everyone else. I think the problem is your shoulder and maybe back area. I am wondering if it is slightly too big? Maybe a slight rounded back too? Something to consider for the next shirt maybe. Did you try this on before putting the collar on? I am wondering what that it looked like without the collar. I just made a shirt that seemed fine until I put the collar on it. I took the collar off (actually it went into the "I will fix this later" pile) and if I sew it again, will do so without the collar. I think a dart is going to fix it-it looks like it is pulling toward the front-adjusting the shoulder seams may fix it too but both fixes are going to require you taking off the collar (at least a few sections of the collar). I hate it when everything goes together great and then I run into something like this. It is all a learning experience.

sewmore
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Date: 7/29/12 12:15 PM

Marie, the pattern is Simplicity 2365, a tunic with pin tucks in the front. I thought it would be easy to fit, lol.

I took off the collar and made a few changes. The shoulder is definitely a problem. The seam wasn't sitting on my shoulder at the arm hole. Thanks, Nancy, for recommending more pictures, or I wouldn't have seen this. After I made that change, it helped the fit of the back, but I still had the neck pleat issue. I removed some of the fabric around the neck and while that helped it didn't fix it all. I tried on the blouse that I made, and saw that the shoulder seam was further back on my neck than on the tunic. So I moved the front of the tunic another 5/8 inches toward the back. That helped the pleats quite a bit. I also took in the princess seams a bit as the tunic was a bit too loose above the bustline. I am wondering if I don't have the vintage combination of a round back and shallow chest. I was really surprised to see how much the flowers arced, they look better after raising the shoulder seam, but weren't straight. I haven't adjusted the armholes yet but that is my next effort.

thanks for the help and encouragement and sharing the changes you have made, Cinca and Nancy, it really makes a difference to be pointed in the right direction.

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