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Forum > Beginner's Forum > Pants-back pieces longer than the front ( Moderated by EleanorSews)

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Pants-back pieces longer than the front
Mikgirl
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Mikgirl
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Date: 7/31/12 0:36 AM

Sorry, I think someone asked the same question recently but I couldn't find it in the search.

I'm making a trouser from Burda magazine.
If I match the notch at the knees, the back pieces are significantly longer than the front ones at the side seams at the top.
If I match at the top (waistband) it's about an inch longer at the bottom, but that's not the way to do it, right?
(Doesn't it shift the grain or something?)
I tried to ease the back piece to the front but it's just impossible... I pinched fabrics here and there because it's way too big.

What can I do?
I finally got the zipper installation down, and now I'm stuck at side seams! :(

RoseFromThule
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RoseFromThule
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FRANCE
Member since 3/3/10
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In reply to Mikgirl <<


Date: 7/31/12 3:21 AM

It may be a combination of three things according to my experience :

1/ The back leg *has* to be eased into the front leg in many Burda patterns, so it's normal that you get more fabric from top to knee. If it's the case, it's shown on the mag pattern pieces drawing : a wavy line at the top of the back leg inseam. 1" seems a lot, though. Has your fabric some give ? Poly woven, for instance, may have zero give and be hard to ease.

2/ Did you match the crotch point seam lines or cut edges at the top ? It's hard to explained, but due to the different shape of the pieces with seam allowances, if you match the cut edges and not the seamlines at the top, you'll shift the seam. I'll try to do a little drawing sometime later.

3/ As the back leg inseam is a bit on the bias, you may have stretched it out. Try shrinking it back with steam (depending on your fabric).

In any case, I'd match the knee notches and work from here. Otherwise, you may end up with twisted legs, as you already guessed.
-- Edited on 7/31/12 7:38 AM --

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lyndle
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lyndle  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/31/12 4:12 AM

Yes, Burda usually say to shrink the back thigh seams with steam, so give it a go. It will work with fabrics with a wool or other natural fibre content. Let us know how you get on!

marymary86
marymary86
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Date: 7/31/12 5:54 AM

When I have a longer piece that needs to fit to a shorter piece, I place the longer piece next to the feed dogs on my machine (the feed dogs help ease in the long piece).

Definitely do what the others said but consider adding this tip too ...

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Mary


Mikgirl
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Mikgirl
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Date: 7/31/12 12:45 PM

Thank you for the tips, but this is on my side seams and not my inseams. :(
I followed the Burda instruction to ease the inseams and it matched perfectly, but the side seams don't match up. :(
I did try to put longer side toward the feed dog but it still dosen't help because of so much fabric. :(
Maybe I cut the pattern wrong?

I'll try to shrink it with steam first.
-- Edited on 7/31/12 12:59 PM --

marymary86
marymary86
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In reply to Mikgirl <<


Date: 7/31/12 12:49 PM

Walk the pattern and see if the seams match up there.

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Mary


Elona
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Elona  Friend of PR
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In reply to Mikgirl <<


Date: 7/31/12 2:29 PM

I would not shrink it with steam. As marymary says, walk your measuring tape along the seamlines of both pattern and garment. It is indeed possible that there's a mistake in either the pattern or in the cutting (sometimes fabric shifts, or there's an unnoticed wrinkle in one layer), and you don't want to make the error permanent, either by shrinking to fit or by sewing a final seam before checking all possibilities.

Mikgirl
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Mikgirl
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Date: 8/2/12 3:42 AM

I figured it out!!

I checked the pattern and fabric pieces and they were fine, so I did my best to ease the back side seams to the front.
It was a little bumpy, but I pressed and thought it was decent enough...

THEN when it was time to attach the waistbands, I noticed that sides of back waistband pieces were about 1 inch shorter than the front!!
So overall the length should match.
Aaaaaahhhh!! That's why!!
It seems like a weird construction to me but I guess that's the design of it.

Sorry for taking your time and thank you for all your advices!!
Now I'm off to ripping the side seams... I even serged it, thinking that's the best it can be. Ugh.

Mikgirl
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Mikgirl
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Date: 8/3/12 2:12 PM

Sigh... Back to square one.
After I ripped apart the seam, I looked at my waistband patterns closely, and front and back were the same width...
I was looking at the waistband fabric that I cut wrong...
I guess I'll try to ease my sideseams as I did before...
It's taking so long to finosh this pants!
I feel like just dumping it and moving on..

allycovey
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allycovey  Friend of PR
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Date: 8/3/12 4:52 PM

it is easy to get flustered with things like seams not matching up. I usually take a break and then keep trudging on, its just another hurdle getting to expert seamtress level, right???

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