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Pant fabric
The right kind of linen and other questions.
Mparedon
Mparedon
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Date: 8/1/12 4:56 PM

Ok, I have a question. I'm making a pair of pants for my friend. She's a teacher and school is starting in a horrible heat wave. I want to make her a pair of linen pants. Something drawstring and breezy.
I looked at linen and linen-like fabric at hancock-fabric and they all seamed just a tad sheer to me. Is there a way to find out if it's too sheer (see through) for pants before buying?

Also, I will be testing different stitch lengths and whatnot for the fabric but does anyone have suggestions for type of needle and thread to use? And what type of finishing for the seams for linen?

goodworks1
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Date: 8/1/12 6:32 PM

Drape a single layer over your/her arm and see if you can see the outline of the arm.

If you end up with the lighter weight linens, I'd suggest underlining them with batiste or similar fabric. It cuts down on the see-thru part and also keeps the linen from creasing as much from sitting.

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blog: goodworks1.wordpress.com

Courtney Ostaff
Courtney Ostaff
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Date: 8/1/12 7:44 PM

My favorite linen pants have a French seam on the outside, and a straight seam on the inside, much like jeans. Needle:
Schmetz recommends a Universal needle in a size somewhere between 70/10 and 90/14 for linen.
http://www.schmetzneedles.com/learning/pdf/ABC-brochure.pdf

Threads recommends a 70/10 or 80/12 needle for linen
http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/3752/sewing-machine-needles-an-overview

blue mooney
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blue mooney
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Date: 8/1/12 7:54 PM

Cotton thread for linen. If you can get the Mettler silk-finish cotton, it is really nice.
-- Edited on 8/1/12 7:54 PM --
-- Edited on 8/1/12 7:56 PM --

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--Robyn
sewing blog: http://bluemooney.wordpress.com/
other artwork blogged here: http://robynjorde.com/blog/

stirwatersblue
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stirwatersblue
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Date: 8/1/12 10:33 PM

The 5.3 oz linen from Fabrics-Store.com would be a nice weight for hot-weather summer pants. How "see through" it might be will depend on the color, the style of pants, and the lighting conditions. For casual wearing-at-home pants, I'd choose a darker color not worry about it, but for your friend's professional setting, I definitely agree to line or underline!!

You might also have a look at their linen/cotton blends. I find them just a little more substantial (and less wrinkle-prone) than the 100% linen, though not the slightest bit less comfortable in the heat. If you want something a little sturdier, there's a heavier weight 100% linen--but I haven't used it (and I'm not sure I even have any in my stash).

I sew with this fabric A LOT. All the time. Constantly , and just use regular Coats & Clark Dual Duty (my machine likes it)--nothing special--and a medium needle. Linen is incredibly easy to work with, but you will want to prep it properly first for best results. It has progressive shrinkage, so you'll want to do several cycles of hot wash/hot dry, which will also make it softer (yay!) and less wrinkle-prone (yay! Yay!). You'll also need to iron it.

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~Gem in the prairie

Kayabunga
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In reply to stirwatersblue <<


Date: 8/2/12 8:36 AM

It has progressive shrinkage, so you'll want to do several cycles of hot wash/hot dry, which will also make it softer (yay!) and less wrinkle-prone (yay! Yay!).

How many cycles of hot wash/dry do you generally do to make sure the linen is finally done shrinking?

solveg
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In reply to Kayabunga <<
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Date: 8/2/12 10:57 AM

I just made a few linen skirts, and I prewashed/dried them 3 times. There is still a little bit of shrinkage, but I'm glad for it because my linen, at least, grows pretty quick on the body. It is unlined.

kkkkaty
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kkkkaty  Friend of PR
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In reply to stirwatersblue <<


Date: 8/2/12 11:10 AM

Quote: stirwatersblue
The 5.3 oz linen from Fabrics-Store.com would be a nice weight for hot-weather summer pants.

I wasn't familiar with this store, so thx a lot for the link. I recently bought s skirt with a linen gauze band at the hem, very pretty. Have you even ordered their sheers? I am wondering if those are basically a gauze....

------
Viking Lily 545
Viking Ruby
Bernina Activa 210
Brother 1034d

stirwatersblue
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Date: 8/2/12 6:46 PM

Triple K, that sounds lovely! I think that's quite a bit more sheer than the hankyweight linen they normally carry, though. To give you an example, here's a chemise I made from their lightweight linen:



You can see the shape/color of the dress form underneath, but it's not *sheer.*

They do occasionally carry an even lighter weight linen, but I haven't tried it.

------
~Gem in the prairie

kkkkaty
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In reply to stirwatersblue <<


Date: 8/2/12 6:52 PM

lovely, thanks for sharing that!

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Viking Lily 545
Viking Ruby
Bernina Activa 210
Brother 1034d

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