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Message Board > Sewing Techniques and Tips > Welt pockets in pants ( Moderated by MissCelie)

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Welt pockets in pants
I want some like the Talbot's pants, not "homemade"
MNBarb
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MNBarb  Friend of PR
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Date: 8/7/12 1:12 PM

I can get a decent looking welt pocket using either the Palmer Pletsh tutorial or that from Kathleen F.

The problem is that I want my INSIDE to look as good as the outside of the garment. When I peek into the workings of a pair of Talbot's pants the pocket bag is sewn with a french seam (all enclosed). I can probably figure that out. Here's the BIG difference, no seams around the cut opening show when the pocket is inspected, not even that little triangular bit on the short end of the cut opening. Where did they hide all of that and how was it done?

I've spent the morning (what a time eater) online and have found no method that looks this terrific. I know they use a Reece machine in RTW but it seems like I should be able to mimic this process as a home sewist.

My next idea is to hit the thrift store for a well-made pair of pants and attack them with the seam ripper.

Does anyone have any insight as to how this lovely looking welt pocket is achieved?

------
Barb
"I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." Thomas Edison
"I not only use all the brains I have, but all I can borrow." Woodrow Wilson

minggiddylooloo
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minggiddylooloo  Friend of PR
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Date: 8/7/12 1:22 PM

YESSSS Back in 2009 I spent an entire day trying to figure this out. After making a bunch of samples I think I finally figured it out. I just pulled out the old samples the other day when I was cleaning up the sewing room. I'll take a few pictures and see if I can give you the short version of instructions (I have final exams tomorrow so I'll have to write extended instructions later this week.)

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I'm finally a blogger!
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minggiddylooloo
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Date: 8/7/12 2:09 PM

I don't know if this is the correct way of doing welt pocket linings with French seams but it's the method that has worked for me. This sample was done on a very rough cut mini pants pattern. (I am pretty sure the pocket pattern is done correctly, it's been 3 years since I've looked at this project so please test this technique before you move onto your final pants!)

The important notes are to make your pocket pattern is wide enough to include the SA for French seams and to cover the welt, and long enough so you can fold the lining in half and both top edges will be caught into the waistband.








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I'm finally a blogger!
sewming.blogspot.com

MNBarb
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In reply to minggiddylooloo <<


Date: 8/7/12 7:09 PM

Thanks, this was really helpful! I think this explains half of the process. Now I have to figure out how to enclose those triangular ends.

When I'm trying to puzzle these things out I can't sleep at night. Sick!

------
Barb
"I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." Thomas Edison
"I not only use all the brains I have, but all I can borrow." Woodrow Wilson

marymary86
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In reply to MNBarb <<


Date: 8/7/12 8:06 PM

It is a sickness Barb and I have it too!

Posts like these are a reason I love this place so much.

Maybe Kathleen Fasanella will see your post and respond. She's often does (she's so knowledgeable and generous with what she knows).

------
Mary


Lena Merrin
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Lena Merrin
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Date: 8/8/12 3:12 AM

I am going to make a tutorial about it, I promise

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www.iconicpatterns.com

MNBarb
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In reply to Lena Merrin <<


Date: 8/8/12 7:23 AM

Really Lena? I'll be watching. I love your blog and will be watching for it. If course, these shorts are calling to be sewn up this weekend...

------
Barb
"I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." Thomas Edison
"I not only use all the brains I have, but all I can borrow." Woodrow Wilson

MissCelie
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Date: 8/8/12 7:34 AM

This is such a well timed post. I've recently made some great welt pockets but I do NOT like the way they look from the inside.

------
Cidell
www.missceliespants.com

minggiddylooloo
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Date: 8/8/12 8:54 AM

Lena, please shed light on this mystery! Barb, it *is* sick when these things bother you to no end, isn't it? I am looking forward to learning more about this entire process.

------
I'm finally a blogger!
sewming.blogspot.com

MNBarb
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Date: 8/8/12 12:28 PM

Ran to Goodwill on my lunch break and found some Liz Claiborne chinos with lovely french-seamed, welt pockets ($2.99). I'll have to refrain from taking the afternoon off "sick" to go home and tear into them with the seam ripper.

I hope I'm technical enough to fugure out the process by looking at the finished product.

Why are all of these RTW methods kept so hush-hush? I want to be in the "club" of knowing how to make my garments look beautiful and well-constructed. I just need the instructions.

------
Barb
"I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." Thomas Edison
"I not only use all the brains I have, but all I can borrow." Woodrow Wilson

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