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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Neckline Ruffles and Pleated Collars

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Neckline Ruffles and Pleated Collars
Pattern Drafting Issues
Lennaire
Lennaire
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Date: 8/7/12 10:09 PM

Hi all.

I'm currently working on a project for a woman who is going to a wedding in England in a few weeks. The gown that she's wearing to the ceremony is sort of loosely based on this gown from My Fair Lady:Though she's doing away with the high "collar" and making the dress a low scoop neck, but she's trying to keep the soft pleated collar and the sort of v shaped neck ruffle that goes over the shoulders of the dress.

Here's where I could use some advice. The pleating goes low over the shoulders in the original dress with the ruffle beneath that. The high collared section serves to hold the top of the dress up. With that gone from this project, and the placement of the pleats I would have to remove the sleeve cap and attach the pleating there. What would be the best way to hold up the dress once the sleeve caps are gone and the neckline is lowered to match.

Also, does anyone have an idea of the shape of the ruffle beneath the pleating? My best guess is something similar in shape to the sailor collar only slightly modified to fit the dress.

Oh yes, I'm using the oop Butterick 4212 pattern as the base of the dress I'm working, with added sleeves.

Thanks in advance for the advice and any advice beyond the questions I asked would be much appreciated as well.

Lennaire
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Date: 8/7/12 10:12 PM

Sorry guys, I didn't realize how big this picture was.

JudyHan
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Date: 8/8/12 7:46 AM

Good Luck with that!! holy smokes...my best guess to hold the front of thedress up is to make the front drape/pleats as light as possible and tack the pleating to the front of the dress. I made a wedding dress a long time ago that had a similar cowl/drape and that is what I remember - tacking the cowl to the front of the dress. The "sleeve" ruffle looks like it would be a piece of fabric cut in the shape of a big banana??? You realize you will have to post pics!! Thanks for sharing!

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VivianZ

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Date: 8/8/12 9:03 AM

I haven't a clue, but there is a pattern design group in Yahoo groups which might be helpful.

ConnieBJ
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Date: 8/8/12 11:45 AM

I made something very loosely similar (does that even make sense?) a couple of years ago. I made the bodice a bustier style, and the drape was tacked on front and back where the natural meeting points were. I actually used crinoline netting to get the fabric to hold the shape I wanted and tacked the pleats invisibly. My fabric was not sheer though- A thought would be to use silk organza to help with shaping.
You could add a stay of some sort to the draped collar and tack it to the bodice also. By a stay in this case I mean a strap or a ribbon tacked to the underside of the collar and then sewn to the bodice. Adding some gripper elastic to the stay would help it grab the shoulder properly...
As far as the ruffle goes, I think it is more of a flounce and I would attach it to the underside of the pleated collar.
Could you show us a photo of the Butterick pattern? I can't seem to locate an image of it, and it might help to see it.

In my head I know exactly what I mean. Translating it to the written word is proving to be a challenge!
-- Edited on 8/8/12 11:56 AM --

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NhiHuynh
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Date: 8/8/12 12:35 PM

I think if you do the pleated collar higher like Kwiksew 3735 You won't need to do anything funny to hold up the dress. The ruffle underneath the pleats look like a flounce. So I'm thinking it's more long crescent moon shaped similar to what JudyHan suggested.


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Lennaire
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Date: 8/8/12 12:57 PM

Here's the image of the Butterick pattern that I'm using as the base dress.



The fabric(s) that she chose are a silk blend shantung for the base layer of the dress and and a silk blend, semi-glossy organza as the overlay rather than chiffon.

I do like the idea of making the pleated collar the same way as in the Kwiksew pattern (thanks for the idea, NhiHuynh). Though I'll have to do a bit of neckline alteration to accommodate that. I can see how the center front is is split and then attached to the side front, do you have any idea how the inside of the center front is attached?

And as for the flounce, I couldn't for the life of me remember the right term for it so thanks for that and for the shaping suggestions.

And I'll definitely be posting pictures of the project for everyone to see.

Thanks again and more advice is always appreciated.



-- Edited on 8/8/12 12:58 PM --

NhiHuynh
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In reply to Lennaire <<


Date: 8/10/12 11:07 AM

Depending on your budget and time you may want to Frankenpattern the Kwiksew top portion to the Butterick pattern. They both have princess seams and back zips so it may not be that difficult to merge the two.

On your questions on the inside center attachment. My guess is that inside center is attached to the princess seam like the front. For your version I wonder if you would take the front and inside piece all the way to the side seams.

This webcast from Silhouette pattern has a short how-to make a flounce somewhere in the webcast. Peggy does it for the yellow wrap dress.

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Lennaire
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Date: 8/10/12 1:29 PM

Hi again. Thanks for the information.

I was wandering around on the net last night and saw a few dresses that had the same kind of top as the Kwiksew pattern. So when I ended up doing on the mockup is to draw in the lines of where the two front pieces would overlap to show the client in the fitting today.

I haven't actually made any modifications to the pattern as of yet.

I never though about take the front pieces all the way to the side seams, but that does sound like it would give me a more stable seam.

I've made the flounce pattern for the sleeve already after refreshing my memory on calculating the circumference of a circle and I believe that I can make the neckline flounce the same way, though I think that I may have to split that one in the back to accommodate the zipper.

I'll post some photos tonight or tomorrow at some point.

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