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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > tapered pencil skirt hem

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tapered pencil skirt hem
mebacher
mebacher
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Date: 8/15/12 1:02 PM

I have modified a pattern for a pencil skirt by tapering the skirt starting from the hips down 3 cm at the hem. I have sewed a muslin for fitting but when I tried to finish the hem (3cm x 2 - blind stitched) I found out that it was impossible to eliminate the puckering caused by the tapering of the skirt line.

I thought of drafting a mirror image of the last 3 cm of the tapered skirt and mirroring this yet again for a total of 6 cm, but it looks weird to me. I printed it and cut it out in paper: it does work, but once this is cut out of fabric and side seams sewed it would be very difficult to fold back into a workable hem.

I have searched the internet for 3 days, and can't seem to find a workaround to what must be a very common problem. Any suggestions?

LauraTS
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LauraTS  Friend of PR
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Date: 8/15/12 4:28 PM

You could do a faced hem, as you are suggesting. Usually when a pattern has a narrow end like a tapered skirt or a tapered pant leg, the hem length is predetermined and the pattern goes back out for the length of the hem, so that when you fold it up it matches correctly. Does that make any sense? In other words, in your pattern piece the side seam is narrowing below the hip, until you get to the desired point of the finished hem, and then the seam would go wider, matching the angle of the seam above, so that when it's folded at the hem height it will all line up.

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Kippysan
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Kippysan
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Date: 8/15/12 4:51 PM

I'm quite sure this is covered in Sandra Betzina's book, Power Sewing Step-by-Step. She explains how to taper a pencil skirt and also how to handle the hem to conquer the puckering problem.

If you don't have this book, post a notification and I'll pull out the book and post the information.

Kippy

mebacher
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Date: 8/15/12 4:59 PM

Something like this? or is the second "facing" one too many?

Thanks for your suggestion by the way....

https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/116162137452035633230/albums/5777007153558509809

mebacher
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In reply to Kippysan <<


Date: 8/15/12 5:02 PM

Would you? I have tons of books, but mainly follow Armstrong's Pattern Making for Fashion Design"

I usually can solve most problems on my own, but this simple one has be stumped! Just an ordinary guy here... ;-)

mebacher
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In reply to Kippysan <<
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Date: 8/15/12 5:06 PM

Just ordered the book on Amazon! you can never have too many books or too many sewing machines!

Lena Merrin
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Lena Merrin
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Date: 8/15/12 5:56 PM

Yes, the hem must "flare out" to be a mirror image of the area above the hem fold.

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Kippysan
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Kippysan
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Date: 8/15/12 7:06 PM

Hi Mebacher,

You'll find the instructions on page 85 in SB's book (great book, IMHO). SB writes about a pant leg hem, but its the same issue for a skirt hem. From the hem crease line to the bottom of the hem, she instructs you to use a seam allowance that reduces from 5/8" at the hem crease line to down to 3/8" at the bottom of the pant.

A skirt would be handled the same way - when you sew the side seam, use a 5/8" seam allowance until you get to the hem crease line, and then start decreasing the seam allow until you get down to 3/8" at the bottom of the skirt.

And all the expert sewers - please chime in here if I've made any errors.

Kippy

mebacher
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Date: 8/15/12 7:59 PM

Thank you to all who took the time to answer. I am on shift until 0800 tomorrow morning (my birthday: yeaahhhh!) but will try all your suggestions as soon as I get home.

mebacher
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Date: 8/16/12 7:37 PM

Hi to all

Got home this morning, and re-drafted/cut/sewed the muslin using your suggestions and it hemmed beautifully!

Thank you for helping me through my Duh!moment...

Mike

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