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How is this done?
Skirt from episode 5 of Project Runway
Montarville
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Montarville
Ontario CANADA
Member since 2/22/11
Posts: 131
Skill: Advanced Beginner
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Date: 8/17/12 1:31 PM

I am talking about this skirt :



I can't say that I liked the fabric to begin with, but I very much like the end result.

Close-up of the fabric:


I can see that the fabric was cut on the bias, then sewn on the lining (I don't know if it is the correct term), but is there more to it than the eye can see?

Were the fabric strips all cut at a 45 degree angle, then bent to the desired shape, or were they cut according to what the final shape would be? The fabric used is silk chiffon, could this technique be used with any woven? And, on a practical note, can a skirt or dress made like that be worn and washed regularly without unraveling until complete disintegration?

marymary86
marymary86
Georgia USA
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Date: 8/17/12 2:12 PM

I don't know much but I'll share what I know (and it will bump your thread).

Strips cut on the bias won't ravel. I have the feeling if I tried to make that skirt the strips would all hang off the line of stitching as soon as i wash it!

It's a cute skirt and it really did change the character of the fabric. Normally big flowers like that make me want to gag (apologies to any flower lovers) but that gives it a whole different look.

If I played with that idea, I'd want to make a sample fusing some strips to a base fabric and then washing just to see what happened. I'd still want to add a line of stitching to each strip.

Thanks for sharing - I don't watch PR because I can't take the drama. I had no idea what I was missing!

------
Mary


kkkkaty
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kkkkaty  Friend of PR
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Date: 8/17/12 3:07 PM

It's a "faux chenille" technique. What you would do is layer one fabric on the other, grain lines vertical. Use any technique you like to draw lines on the bias, as exactly as possible. Spacing could vary from 1/2 to 3/4 inch apart. Once they are all drawn, sew along them (you can see this in the pics you provided). This can get pretty tedious, btw. After you've sewn them all, use a scissors to cut between them, avoiding cutting the base fabric. then you'd lay the pattern piece on top, and cut out the fabric.

If you are using fabric that will shrink, you should either prewash it, or cut the pattern out in a slightly larger size.

When I learned how to do this, it was from Nanette Holmberg; her emphasis was on using and layering fabric that will shrink and fray a bit, which gives you a thick and soft texture. That's not what you're after in the skirt, of course, just wanted to say that that is the only example of this technique that I've done myself

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Viking Lily 545
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Bernina Activa 210
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kkkkaty
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kkkkaty  Friend of PR
Utah USA
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Date: 8/17/12 3:14 PM

Here's a bunch of images:

faux chenille

btw, you could try this out on a very small scale: take about an 8 inch square of fabric, lay it together with another square, draw the bias lines, sew the lines, cut between them, and see if you like the look. Then try washing it and see what happens. If you wash it by hand without agitating much, they may not fray too much

------
Viking Lily 545
Viking Ruby
Bernina Activa 210
Brother 1034d

loti
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loti
Florida USA
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Date: 8/17/12 3:34 PM

There are also chenille cutters that make things go a bit faster.
Here's a Youtube video by Olfa, but I think Clover makes one as well.

------
"A girl should be two things: classy and fabulous.
Coco Chanel

Stash Sewn in 2011 148.5 Yds
Stash Sewn in 2012.... counting...

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Montarville
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Montarville
Ontario CANADA
Member since 2/22/11
Posts: 131
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In reply to kkkkaty <<


Date: 8/17/12 4:43 PM

Sew first, cut after... How brilliant! I would never have thought of it. I would have struggled to pin every strip and try to match the patterns... Thanks Katy!

The video is very helpful too. Thanks Lotti.

Marymary, the drama on PR is starting to get on my nerves too. This season is worse than ever. But there are still bits of the show that are about design and sewing, and once in a while there is an interesting idea that I can integrate to my sewing, so I keep on watching.
-- Edited on 8/17/12 4:49 PM --

SecondHandRogue
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SecondHandRogue  Friend of PR
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Date: 8/17/12 4:54 PM

The skirt is cute, but why didn't he snip those threads!? I could see them Trailing down the runway! And why did Nina let him get away with it?

arianamaniacs
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arianamaniacs  Friend of PR
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In reply to SecondHandRogue <<


Date: 8/18/12 5:56 AM

Probably comes down to sewing the last seam or clipping threads :)

------
Please excuse any typos, ipad keyboards are hard for me.

KathySews
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KathySews  Friend of PR
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Date: 8/18/12 7:27 AM

Close up you can see what a time crunch he was under. Check out this technique on the first episode on a dress. It was beautiful. Technique done well!

If you watch PR online you can skip by the drama and look at the work. I am creating quite a list of things I would like to do this year. I am trying to figure out where I would use this on a smaller scale.
-
-- Edited on 8/18/12 7:38 AM --
-- Edited on 8/18/12 7:39 AM --

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