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Message Board > Fitting Woes > Raglan sleeves ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Raglan sleeves
So far fitting issues big time
halleyscomet
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halleyscomet  Friend of PR
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Date: 8/17/12 8:10 PM

I'm finding that two-piece raglan sleeves have too many things to go wrong. Or is it just me? I did a muslin of cut BWOF 05-2008-105. I did a size 12 for the shoulders and bust going up to a 16 for the hips. I cut the back extra wide by the armholes which I always need. The shoulders on the sleeves hit me low. I can't reach forward without ripping out the back sleeve seam and the biceps toward the front being tight.

With the shoulders not hitting me at the right place, that tells me that I should have cut a smaller size there, right? Then I think I need to make the raglan sleeves wider for my biceps. Because of it ripping out at the back, I guess I need to cut that wider there too. Doing all these changes on this type of sleeve just intimidates the heck out of me. Am I figuring this out right?

Sew4Fun
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In reply to halleyscomet <<


Date: 8/17/12 8:46 PM

Quote:
I'm finding that two-piece raglan sleeves have too many things to go wrong. Or is it just me?

No it's not just you. I definitely prefer set-in sleeves and avoid raglan sleeves.

With a set-in sleeve it's easy to divide fit alterations into those that relate to your back and shoulders (bodice) and those that relate to your arms (sleeve) and alter the two separately. However a raglan sleeve is a combination of the bodice and sleeve pieced together, therefore you need to address your fit issues all at once. This isn't easy IMHO.

Good luck.

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Belinda. Melbourne, Australia
http://sew-4-fun.blogspot.com/

Courtney Ostaff
Courtney Ostaff  Friend of PR
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Date: 8/17/12 9:02 PM

I like raglan sleeves when combined with princess seaming. Easier to fit that way. I'd need a pic to give good advice.

halleyscomet
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In reply to Sew4Fun <<


Date: 8/18/12 9:41 AM

Belinda, I thought it was just me and my weird fitting issues. I'm like you....I definitely find it a lot easier sewing in set-in sleeves. I don't know if I want to attempt to try to get this top to fit or not. I find it very frustrating!

beauturbo
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In reply to halleyscomet <<


Date: 8/18/12 1:41 PM

I actually like Ragland sleeves. Not only for just the looks and style of them only, but also the fit most times. As would fit more people, I think just as drafted most times, with all sorts of different shoulder and upper arm shapes, I would think. As they are never going to be as tight fitting and fussy as a sleeve with a real round inset armhole in it. And I do think they would accommodate more shoulder types with more ease of movement in them often, and wiggle room, just because in order to have a rather tight fitted to the body rounded inset armhole sleeve, you really need it at your armhole just right and also pretty close to your body there, to even get a full range of movement out of it, but not so most times with a dolman or ragland sleeve, just because no inset armhole there.

I think maybe issue was just that you changed them around thinking you would have to do that there, like a normal inset sleeve possibly, when you could have just left them alone even, and the style would have just covered a lot of "fit issues" maybe then instead.

So I would not give up on them, on future projects at all, if you like their looks, just maybe do not change them next time around, just knowing they are a little more forgiving in fit, in any direction, than a inset sleeve.

loti
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In reply to halleyscomet <<


Date: 8/18/12 1:47 PM

Definitely need pics.

When you say shoulders not hitting me at the right place

Is the garment wider or shorter than your body?

And where is it ripping exactly?

It could just be that the armhole opening is too low, and that will constrict movement and put pressure on the seams, or are the sleeves tight around the bicep?

------
"A girl should be two things: classy and fabulous.
Coco Chanel

Stash Sewn in 2011 148.5 Yds
Stash Sewn in 2012.... counting...

http://adonising.blogspot.com

CM_Sews
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Date: 8/18/12 3:36 PM

Rather than cutting a smaller size for the shoulders, perhaps you need an alteration for narrow shoulders, which would move the shoulder "up" the sleeve.

I have no suggestions on how to make this alteration on a raglan sleeve pattern, although I'm sure it can be done, and I've probably seen an alteration in FFRP or some other alteration book.

Raglan sleeves have never looked good on me. I've finally realized that I have narrow shoulders as a fitting issue, and I think this makes raglan sleeves look "weird" on me. I'm not sure why, exactly, but every time I've tried on a raglan sleeve garment, I look in the dressing room mirror and think "Meh, looks weird." The few raglan sleeve garments I've owned never looked quite right. I learned to just avoid them.

Same with most cut-on sleeves, which I suppose are a variation of a raglan sleeve, like Vintage McCalls 4190, or Vintage Vogue 5710. Looks weird on me. Many of the vintage patterns I'm attracted to have sleeves like this, and I pass them up.

Please note that I have nothing against raglan sleeves as a style variation, they just don't look good on me- not my best look.

CMC

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