Member since 5/31/09
Skill: Advanced Beginner
Date: 8/17/12 10:26 PM
I can't find a thread that has basic generalizations about each pattern company--what made me look for this was a comment in a review that McCalls patterns have historically had less ease than Vogue/Butterick, which I thought was an interesting observation. If this thread exists,can someone point me to it? If it doesn't, I think it would be useful to have one. For example, X company: pattern instructions are generally clear/minimal/online tutorials; have/don't have seam allowances/seamlines marked; patterns have lots of/some ease; If you are tall/short/plus these are the kinds of alterations you will probably have to make. I know it's not easy to paint with a broad brush, but clearly, Style Arc and Vogue are pretty different, and for newbies a sense of how would be super helpful.
Member since 7/10/06
Skill: Advanced Beginner
Date: 8/18/12 1:30 AM
McCalls, Butterick and Vogue are all the same company now and have been for a while. I've never noticed a consistent difference between the three (other than the Vogue designer patterns which are often a slightly different draft). The only thing I've noticed with the Big 4 is that they all tend to have excessive ease.
I think if you check out active threads for all the indie patterns you'll get a general idea of how they fit and what figure types they most easily work for. I don't know if anyone's written up a cross-line summary.
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Member since 5/28/11
Date: 8/18/12 8:38 AM
Laura stated it very well. The reason you are not finding a summary is that it would be nearly impossible to come up with. The Big 4 are unpredictable and can vary from pattern to pattern. Other pattern companies are much better. I have always been a loyal Simplicity fan but I am finding other pattern companies offer better fit and drafting. The reviews here are a big help in knowing what issue a particular pattern might have and if I look for someone's review who has a similar body style, I get an idea about fit.
Member since 12/24/07
Date: 8/18/12 9:38 AM
My experience with the Big4 are also mixed and generalization is difficult. However, I made some consistent observations across brands on t-shirts and pants:
- Jalie tees are mostly very fitted and have negative ease.
- KwikSew tees are drafted much more losely and rarely have negative easy.
- burda tees (both envelope and magazine) are fitted and have little or no negative ease. For envelope patterns, there's a description (at least in the catalogue) - ''very fitted'' ''fitted'', ''semi-fitted'', ''lose'' that is very reliable.
- the tee patterns from Schnittquelle and Garconne (two independant German companies) are usually very fitted and have a bit of negative ease.
In my experience, burda drafts by far the best crotch curve. This doesn't mean that they fit right of the envelope but it's a good starting point.
Member since 5/2/09
Date: 8/18/12 9:47 AM
I have actually seen and read that in detail, as in generalizations of each pattern companies, sizing v.s. fit. As to at least, of one person's opinion on it, in Sandra Betzina's 2002 book, Power Sewing Step by Step, published by Taunton Press. $24.95. Maybe you can find that old book or maybe even your public Library might have it. She used up hundreds of words there, on 3 whole pages of her book when she made a study of it.
Then she started to produce and sell her patterns though Vouge, and she still did not use their sizing, instead she made up her own sizing system there, (labeled A through J, not Misses standard sizing)just for her own patterns in there!
Baja California Sur Mexico
Member since 7/13/08
1 member likes this.
Date: 8/18/12 11:39 AM
As far as I am concerned the Big 4 are selling schlock at outrageous prices. They are poorly printed, the ink is so light it is hard to tell which way is up. I have noticed that over the years, instructions have become more concise and in some cases incorrect.
I will make the exception for the Simplicity Amazing Fit pants #2860. It has been reviewed many times, and I am pleased with the fit, the pattern and the instructions.
My friend and I were just complaining about this at our weekly cafe date.
I always paper fit he pattern, and make notes of changes on the envelope and guide sheet. I also now make muslins more often.
I have the Lutterloh pattern system, which I used exclusively last century, I am now getting back to it. I have purchased a JStern t shirt pattern and am watching the videos in her course.. Once I have made the T I will review it.
It is a matter of trial and error, good paper fitting, measuring and a leap of faith that the pattern will fit.
Sewing on the beach, what could be better?
Member since 10/29/06
|In reply to Baja Susana <<
Date: 8/18/12 11:45 AM
So what is your take on the Lutterloh system? How does it fit you, what body type are you? Thanks
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|mary in FL
Member since 4/28/02
Date: 8/18/12 11:46 AM
I prefer Stretch & Sew when I want a good fit through the shoulders. Most of their patterns show shoulder widths for each size, and it's easy enough for me to adjust from there on down as I trace the patterns. I've heard that a garment has to hang from the shoulders correctly before it can be fit through the bodice.
from Daytona Beach, FL