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Message Board > Plus Size Sewing > Being plus sized in some places but not others ( Moderated by JEF)

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Being plus sized in some places but not others
AKA the downside of losing weight
lareine
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lareine  Friend of PR
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Date: 8/18/12 9:37 PM

I've been at the lower end of plus size for the last few years and had just about got the hang of the pattern alterations required for that, but I have been losing a lot of weight with WeightWatchers and now I'm down to what is probably a Big 4 pattern size 16 or 18 all over. Everywhere but my bust, that is.

I just tried making up a size 18 simple little pullover top with one small bust dart, which technically "fit" but really was stealing fabric from the back to go round the front so it didn't hang right anywhere. I needed at least two extra inches across the bust in front to fix the problem. After much fiddling and faffing, it now has a large bust dart, a huge dart from just below the bust to the bottom hemline so it doesn't hang like a sack, and two back darts to pull it in around my waist back there.

It wasn't apparent to me before, but having a thick waist made my FBA a lot more straightforward than it is now. I'm going to have to learn how to do an FBA that doesn't add anything to the waistline, which is all new to me. Might have to try a size 16 for the back piece too as it is baggy all over.

Sigh. I'm not really looking for advice as I know I need to learn this stuff and all the resources are already here. Just having a whinge really. But if anybody does have any good advice feel free to throw it at me

Andi
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Andi
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In reply to lareine <<
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Date: 8/18/12 10:58 PM

First give yourself a big pat on the back for all of your hard work!. I would assume you have a totally new body,so re-take your measurements and forget about what you used to do. Think of how fun it will be learning new techniques! I would start with taking your high bust measurement to determine the starting size, then FBA, then go from there . Good luck!

Courtney Ostaff
Courtney Ostaff  Friend of PR
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In reply to lareine <<


Date: 8/18/12 11:23 PM

Make the size that fits at the waist, and then do an FBA for your bosom. Easier than fitting your bust and altering everything else.

lyndle
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lyndle  Friend of PR
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Date: 8/18/12 11:51 PM

Check out Shams' blog. She has waist and hips smaller than her bust and has great suggestions for accommodating this without having a tent around the waist.

Communing with fabric

I know what you mean about changing shape. My bust is always the first part of me to lose weight so there is a stage where I get more pear shaped as I lose weight. It's annoying! And big congratulations on your weight loss. Awesome!

SheBear0320
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SheBear0320  Friend of PR
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In reply to lareine <<
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Date: 8/19/12 0:48 AM

Oh can I relate to this one -- I too have lost a significant amount of weight but of course it doesn't come off evenly and I've lost next to nothing at the bust level (and nothing in front). I'm still losing so what works one time I sew won't necessarily work the next time.

So far what I've found works best is princess seaming -- I start with a 14-16 in the shoulder and upper bust area (dependent on the pattern) -- even though I need an 18 in the waist and an 18 to 20 in the hips I trace the whole pattern at the smaller size.

I then do my FBA and the resulting circumference that ends up through the waist and hips. After that I make whatever additional circumference adjustments I need to. And I do all my measurements as halves -- I measure my front half and back half separately and base my pattern adjustments on the half pattern. In a class I took with Cynthia Guffey last fall she emphasized adding the inches where you actually need them.

It's definitely a learning curve. Congrats on the weight loss and good luck with all the fitting issues.

------
Sheila
"sewing very slowly to fill an empty closet"

2014 Stash Busting Sew-Along:
27.5 yards sewn (as of 04/17/14)
20.125 yards purchased (as of 04/17/14)

lareine
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lareine  Friend of PR
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Date: 8/19/12 1:22 AM

Thanks guys, you are all very supportive and informative!

I am already well used to doing an FBA -- with a HH cup bust there was no way around that -- but I also needed extra space in front from the bust down to the hem and the FBA provided that automatically. Now I don't need the space in front any more except across the bust itself.

At least I have already been measuring my front and back separately and using a base pattern that fits my overall frame, not my biggest assets -- two of the things suggested above and things I learned from the great folk on this board over the last couple of years -- and princess seams are a long-time friend. Lyndle, I have had that blog bookmarked for a long time now! It's just annoying to have the tweaks down pat and now have to re-do all my TNT patterns!

Oh well, I am happier to be adjusting down rather than up, that's for sure. I re-cut the back of today's top in a size 16 and it looks a lot better than the 18, although I still had to take it in with darts from shoulderblade to just below the waist. Not sure if it's "swayback" or just a protruding bum. That is standard for me though. At least it's an easy adjustment

AdaH
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AdaH  Friend of PR
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In reply to lareine <<


Date: 8/19/12 10:44 AM

Congrats on the weight loss. Your are so right, adjusting down is a whole lot better than adjusting up.

------
Ada

marymary86
marymary86
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GA USA
Member since 7/20/08
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In reply to lareine <<


Date: 8/19/12 8:04 PM

Congratulations on losing weight!

I love reading posts on fitting and you threw in a whole new twist!

------
Mary


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