Sewing Patterns, Pattern Review, Sewing Classes, Sewing Machines and Sewing Machine Reviews!
Platinum Sponsor: Stylish Fabric
Over 20,000 of high quality reorderable fabric

[SIGNUP - FREE Membership & 1 FREE Sewing Lesson ]
[Sewing Classes|Shopping Bag Your Shopping Bag|Login|Help]
Sewing Review and Pattern Reviews Sewing Knowledge Base Sewing Patterns Sewing Classes & Sewing Lessons Sewing Machine & Embroidery Machinery Sewing Message Boards Sewing merchants Blog Help/FAQ About Pattern Review
Enter your e-mail address:




Advanced Search
Tags
New to PR?
Sewing Machines
Compare Sewing Machines
Sewing Machine & Serger Reviews
Embroidery Machines
Sewing Reviews
Sewing Patterns
Review Gallery
Sewing Books
Sewing Supplies
Sewing Websites
Sewing Stores
Sewing Class Reviews
Sewing Expo Reviews
Sewing Tips & Techniques
Sewing Podcasts
NEW!Fabric Glossary
Sewing Review Requests Add a Review Request
Your Account
Edit Profile
My Page
Favorites
Wish List
Pattern Catalog
Notifications
Friends of PR
Join Friends of PR
Find a member
Deal Corner
Photo Album
Calendar
Chat Room
Chat Schedule
Chat Transcripts
Sewing Classifieds
Add a Classified
Sewing Contests
enter contest
contest report
contest gallery
Favorite Links
reviews with comments
merchant gallery
article archive
newsletter archive
Craft Resources
contact info
shipping rates
returns & refunds
testimonials

Platinum Sponsor - Stylish Fabric
Stylish Fabric
You are not logged in. Login here.



Message Board > Patterns and Notions > Adjusting the centre front seam of a Sloper ( Moderated by Sharon1952)

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
Adjusting the centre front seam of a Sloper
Adjusting the centre front of a Sloper
MegWight
MegWight
Intermediate
AB CANADA
Member since 11/14/10
Posts: 7
Login to reply to this post

Date: 8/20/12 1:38 PM

Hi All,

I just have a quick question. I drafted my own block last night and have made a sample to fit. I am not sure why but it seems like my centre front near my neckline is about an inch to large but everywhere else is fine. I pinned out the excess and would have to remove about an inch on each side (not including seam allowances) tapering down to my bust in a wedge. When I pinched that out my sloper seemed to fit so much better (although I need to lower the neckline a little (less that 1/4inch).Can you pinch out the width at the centre front seam or should I dart it from the neckline. As added information my bust measurement is 40 inches, my shoulder measurement is 34inches, my waist is 34 inches and my hips are 41.75 inches, so I am fairly curvy. On a second note, even though I have had an actual tailor measure me, and my slopers all seem large. Perhaps it is my book and the calculations that it has in it but does anyone else find a sloper too big on the first draft? I know that I canít expect perfection but it seems like I am removing sometimes an inch or more in areas.
So basically can you adjust your centre seam on your sloper or do you need to take the excess out with darts elsewhere?
Thank you all for anything you can tell me.
Megs

petro
starstar
petro  Friend of PR
Advanced
FRANCE
Member since 6/24/07
Posts: 2346
Login to reply to this post

Date: 8/20/12 2:55 PM

Prior to mass production of clothing it was common for there to be a shaped centre seam, which often allows for a better individual fit. I have a little shaping on mine, marked with a dotted line, so that if I'm using the block to draft something where its not appropriate, I know I've got to transfer out the excess fullness.
That's the only difficulty I can think of , that if you draft something without a seam, where you would cut on the fold, you need to change your block a little.

Lena Merrin
star
Lena Merrin
Expert/Couture
AUSTRALIA
Member since 2/5/09
Posts: 557
Login to reply to this post

Date: 8/20/12 7:14 PM

If your CF overlaps above bust and fine at the bust, it is possible that you might need an FBA. I think maybe your slopers are too big all over because of the bust size, and they need to be larger only in one place. Another cause could be round shoulders and narrow chest

------
www.iconicpatterns.com

Miss Fairchild
starstarstarstar
Miss Fairchild  Friend of PR
Advanced
USA
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 7936
Login to reply to this post

In reply to MegWight <<


Date: 8/20/12 8:51 PM

Don't remove the excess from CF unless you plan to remove that amount all the way down to the hem; it will make CF crooked if you do.

I have round narrow shoulders, and a narrow and hollow chest; I have this problem. Your body measurements are very similar to mine, although I have a fuller hip. I have to remove 1" from the CF neckline on most of my patterns. How I do this is I make two little 1/4" tucks in the neckline, flattening them to nothing. This makes my neckline smaller. Sometimes, especially when I'm making a sloper, I transfer the extra in the neckline by treating it as a dart and rotating it to the sideseam, then removing the extra there.

I don't seem to have the problems with my sloper that you have with yours, and maybe it's because I make my own rather than have a tailor who has his/her interpretation of what ease there should be. For me, the ease in the bust should be 3", the waist, 1" and the hip 2". Anything more than that is design ease and anything less is a moulage. I've made my slopers from SureFit's Dress Kit, and it's fabulous!

------
"Play the cards you are dealt, but choose who is sitting at the table"..AARP magazine

SEE MY ETSY SHOP HERE: http://www.etsy.com/shop/AuntMaymesAttic
My blog: http://auntmaymesattic.wordpress.com/

Rowena B
star
Rowena B  Friend of PR
Intermediate
AUSTRALIA
Member since 10/2/02
Posts: 55
Login to reply to this post

Date: 8/20/12 9:00 PM

Connie Crawford addresses the extra fabric in the front neck in her DVD Custom Fitting and Trueing.
Basically you take that dart out in the pattern by extending it to the mid armhole and closing the dart. She makes the line curved. I struggled with this on a Vogue sloper ages ago and back then never knew how to fix it.
-- Edited on 8/20/12 9:01 PM --

------
Perth, Western Australia

MegWight
MegWight
Intermediate
AB CANADA
Member since 11/14/10
Posts: 7
Login to reply to this post

thumbsup 1 member likes this.
Date: 8/21/12 0:03 AM

I did make my sloper from the measurements a tailor took for me (no sewing buddy here). I used the book Pattern Drafting for fashion design by Helen Joseph Armstrong. I almost feel like this book has some errors, I have found a few times where it contradicted previous measurements. Thanks everyone
Meg's

Lena Merrin
star
Lena Merrin
Expert/Couture
AUSTRALIA
Member since 2/5/09
Posts: 557
Login to reply to this post

In reply to MegWight <<


Date: 8/21/12 1:13 AM

Quote: MegWight
I did make my sloper from the measurements a tailor took for me (no sewing buddy here). I used the book Pattern Drafting for fashion design by Helen Joseph Armstrong. I almost feel like this book has some errors, I have found a few times where it contradicted previous measurements. Thanks everyone

Meg's

Yeah I often find strange things there myself

------
www.iconicpatterns.com

MegWight
MegWight
Intermediate
AB CANADA
Member since 11/14/10
Posts: 7
Login to reply to this post

Date: 8/21/12 11:16 AM

Well after much thought and making a few more slopers last night, I think that I may just redraft the whole thing. I just ordered the Kenneth King Moulage book, I think that in the meantime I will try to dart and rotate out the extra. I have been sewing for a long time (all my work clothes are made by me) but I only recently decided to get into drafting after I couldnt find anything that I liked.

unfinishedprojects
starstar
unfinishedprojects  Friend of PR
Advanced
AB CANADA
Member since 8/26/07
Posts: 571
online now
Login to reply to this post

Date: 8/21/12 11:40 PM

Quote:
I did make my sloper from the measurements a tailor took for me (no sewing buddy here).


Any chance you're in central AB? I'd be your sewing buddy.
tigergirl
star
tigergirl
Advanced Beginner
AUSTRALIA
Member since 11/30/09
Posts: 231
Login to reply to this post

Date: 8/21/12 11:46 PM

Yes, I've found slopers made from instructions in books to include far too much ease for my liking - they ended up looking like huge potato sacks.

I remember ages ago reading that several of the Armstrong books do have errors.

------
Brother BM-2600
Janome 693
Lumina Overlocker (Serger)
http://tigergirladventures.blogspot.com/

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Patterns and Notions >> Adjusting the centre front seam of a Sloper

Merchants on PR
Style Arc sewing dress patterns
Patterns That Fit
Web site
Victoria Jones Collection
Timeless Hawaiian styles
Web site
So Vintage Patterns
Thank You for Joining!
Deals!
Fitz Like a Glove Ironing Board Cover
Made In Australia
Deals!
SewBaby
Unique Sewing Patterns
Deals!

Copyright © 2014 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.
Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Contact Us
Online Sewing Classes
Clone Your Favorite Garment
Fee: $19.99
(Regular $49.00)
Clone Your Favorite Garment

Online Sewing Classes
Expert Sewing Techniques for Jackets
Fee: $49.00
(Regular $49.00)
Expert Sewing Techniques for Jackets

Kwik Sew 2530 Men Shirts
photo
Review by novicesewi... on 2/13/11
Read Review

Jamie Christina Sol Hoodie Digital Pattern (JC316SHE)
Jamie Christina Sol Hoodie Digital Pattern (JC316SHE)

Details
Price: $10.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Jamie Christina Bibury Capelet Digital Pattern (JC302BC)
Jamie Christina Bibury Capelet Digital Pattern (JC302BC)

Details
Price: $7.50
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Simplicity 2443
photo
Review by CJgal on 8/28/11
Read Review

Petite Plus 202 Pattern
Petite Plus 202 Pattern

Details
Price: $21.00
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Petite Plus 504 Pattern
Petite Plus 504 Pattern

Details
Price: $21.00
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Simplicity 1818 Pattern ( Size 16-18-20-22-24 )
Simplicity 1818 Pattern ( Size 16-18-20-22-24 )

Details
Price: $17.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Butterick 5613 Pattern ( Size 14-16-18-20-22 )
Butterick 5613 Pattern ( Size 14-16-18-20-22 )

Details
Price: $18.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Subscribe to PR Message Board Feed Subscribe to the PR Message Board Feed Add to My Yahoo! Subscribe at NewsGator Online Subscribe at Bloglines Add to MyMSN