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Forum > Fitting Woes > adjusting an already large bust dart ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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adjusting an already large bust dart
esp for independant patterns
meleliza
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meleliza  Friend of PR
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Date: 8/21/12 2:28 PM

I've been working with the Darling Ranges dress for a while now. The bust dart as drafted is enourmous! I need about 3/4-1" more fullness, but a traditional FBA leaves me with a completely boxed corner instead of a dart. I tried a few different things to no avail. So I went up a size in the pattern and made a smaller FBA. Still - boxy, unworkable dart.

Next, I removed the FBA altogether, and added pure width to the center of the bodice. This gave me all the space I need, but that dart! It's still difficult to get it to lay flat even with no adjustment.

Now, I am still working in muslin, but I have shortened my stitch length at the end and pressed it and still a bubble. I extended the dart point so it would taper gradually, but still it's not quite perfect. Maybe that's OK, but I really LOVE the fabric I have in mind and I don't want to spoil it.

Any thoughts are appreciated!

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Melanie

JEF
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JEF  Friend of PR
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In reply to meleliza <<


Date: 8/21/12 4:28 PM

I haven't tried this myself ...

You can break the dart into 2 or more smaller darts.

I have done this ...

You could also change it to a French dart (so you have a longer length to accommodate the change).

JEF

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"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." --Abraham Lincoln

meleliza
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meleliza  Friend of PR
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In reply to JEF <<


Date: 8/21/12 6:48 PM

Thanks for those ideas. I think it is a little of a French dart. It's a little angled. Also, the dress has a high waist, so I'm not sure I can angle it more, but I'm going to have a look. Maybe I'll try slashing and spreading, since I'll be lining this fabric anyway. I hate that, though, it's so messy.

It seems odd to me that so many people have gotten such cuter versions of this dress when the dart is really difficult to work with. I'm now working with no FBA and no alteration to the dart, yet it doesn't seem to work. Is the pattern just badly drafted?

------
Melanie

misschris
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In reply to meleliza <<


Date: 8/21/12 6:51 PM

You could rotate some of the dart to the shoulder or the waist. Given that it's a high waist, the shoulder may be better.

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chris

Melbourne

meleliza
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meleliza  Friend of PR
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In reply to misschris <<


Date: 8/21/12 8:08 PM

and add gathers or something, do you mean? I'd like to not mess with the design really if I don't have to. I guess I just want to figure out how others made an FBA without changing the overall dress and had it come out so cute!

I tried the dart in several different lengths, read quite a few blog posts, tried curving it, tried ironing the bejeezus it over a pressing ham. I'm at a loss. Maybe it's just supposed to bubble? Could a pattern be written like this?
-- Edited on 8/21/12 9:02 PM --

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Melanie

diane s
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diane s  Friend of PR
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Date: 8/21/12 9:46 PM

I've been sewing for many years and asked an expert why my large darts are always so pointy at the end. She told me to sew the dart in a curved line, following your curves, instead of straight. I've seen it referred to as a boat shaped dart. I resewed some problem darts and it worked perfectly.

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My grandmother taught me to sew when I was 10, and I've been sewing ever since.

NhiHuynh
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NhiHuynh
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Date: 8/21/12 10:06 PM

Are you sewing the dart with it ending right at the bust point? You my want to end a couple inches away. It's less pointy that way.

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I finally have a blog. www.detectivehoundstooth.com :)

misschris
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In reply to meleliza <<


Date: 8/22/12 0:51 AM

Quote:
and add gathers or something, do you mean?


No, just leave it as a dart, so you have the bust dart as is, and another from the shoulder seam. You can split them equally or make the shoulder dart narrower.

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chris

Melbourne

meleliza
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meleliza  Friend of PR
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In reply to NhiHuynh <<


Date: 8/22/12 9:07 AM

No, I've tried ending it anywhere from 1 1/2 to 2" from the bust point. Still no go. Several reviewers have had trouble with this, so I know it's not me. And even if you look closely at the designers photo shoot for the pattern, the darts aren't exactly perfect. Yet somehow it's still a really cute dress. Last night I looked through all the mainstream patterns and couldn't find anything close enough to make me happy. I hope I don't sound stubborn, but you all probably know how it is when you have been picturing a particular pattern in a special fabric for a long while, right?

I have tried curving the dart at the point. I used a French curve to draw it in and tried several different shapes, but I found that it didn't take in enough fabric and made the dart box out over my bust.

Maybe this dress is supposed to have a ready to wear fit. In other words, you know how rtw clothes dont really fit well from a seamstress's point of view but most people have no idea that the clothes don't fit well? Maybe it's just not supposed to fit "well." I did plan to skip the ties in the back and add elastic around the waist. This would take care of the extra width under the bust and in the back. It's supposed to be worn tied or belted or something. I think elastic would distribute that ease better than just a belt and be really comfy.

And thanks so much for all the suggests thus far!

------
Melanie

meleliza
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Date: 8/22/12 2:09 PM

Is there any reason i couldn't just use the dart from another dress that does work well?

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Melanie

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