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Message Board > Fitting Woes > Do I laugh or do I cry?? ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Do I laugh or do I cry??
It fits only if I stand up...
Canadian Jane
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Canadian Jane
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Date: 8/23/12 5:55 PM

So I just finished making Butterick 5644. Thank goodness this is a muslin - a $2 musin.

This pattern crosses over at the front - probably not my best choice for my first FBA. But I persevered and thought I did a not bad job.... until I sat down in this top.

OMG.. now I realize that the cross over peices are not right. The cross over point sags down and the left gaps hugely while the right one (underneath one) pulls to the arm hole.

I haven't made garments in ages - like decades. I learned alot. For one - these cross over bodices are hard to fit and the shoulder darts just add to the fitting woes.

The other thing I learned about the cross over top. The instructions have the seam allowance that join the top and bottom peices together sewn to form a casing for elastic. This elastic provides additional gathering. The problem I found is that the bodice peices that overlap, the casing is quite thick and doesn't want to gather nicely with the elastic in it. It has this sort of weird bulge. I think if I added the tie bow, it might hide this.

Any tips out there for getting these lap over tops to fit?

One thing that might help is if I put in some elastic on the two front seams that form the V, but I have sizeable gap on the left when I sit that I wonder if this would create even more gathering??? Not sure how that would look.

My actual sewing technique is pretty good. I like the way it looks when I stand or when it is on the hanger. Now if I can just get the hang of sewing it to FIT!!!



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Forgiveness does not excuse the behaviour. It prevents the behaviour from breaking your heart over and over again.

jadamo00
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Date: 8/23/12 6:07 PM

CLICK HERE

Anything?

Canadian Jane
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In reply to jadamo00 <<


Date: 8/23/12 6:42 PM



Not sure if bikini glue is any match to my girls!!

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Forgiveness does not excuse the behaviour. It prevents the behaviour from breaking your heart over and over again.

beauturbo
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Date: 8/23/12 7:42 PM

On a cross over top, or a wrap top, particular if it's knit I often add a little piece of thin clear stretchy elastic into the seam allowance turn or even the facing or lining of the cross over part. I usually just make it a bit by several inches shorter than the part I'm sewing it into or onto, because I don't want it too pulled up and tight, and gathers but I do want it stabilized a bit sometimes and to stay on. Hust sewing over and into that thin clear elastic, does stretch it out somewhat right there.

Have added that into (and also just hand sewn in elastic thread sometimes), even after the fact, into something store bought that has sort of the same issues sometimes.

I also don't think a more normal 5/8 inch seam allowance for a top or skirt waist if you turn it and try to turn into a casing for elastic later, is most times enough to go over the width of elastic they tell/recommend you to use, in a pattern, in particular in places with lots of seam allowances and over lapping fabric, even if you try try to grade down your seams as much as possible.

Courtney Ostaff
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Date: 8/23/12 7:47 PM

Honey, getting the hang of sewing to fit is the gold standard!! I'd be afraid to sew that top, honestly. ;)

arianamaniacs
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Date: 8/24/12 3:09 AM

I don't have a hard time sewing most things, but cross over tops are also a challenge for me to make them fit right. You're not alone!

Canadian Jane
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Date: 8/24/12 11:50 AM

Okay.... good feedback!

The bad on me is that I did NOT grade the seam allowance where the two bodice peices overlap. DUH!!! No wonder that overlap part doesn't want to gather.

Agree that the elastic they said to use 3/8 doesn't seem adequate... but maybe if I had graded down the seam it would be okay. A bigger seam allowance for the casing might help too.

I will tinker away with this one in my spare time. I am learning - and relearning - an awful lot. But baby steps here - next attempt at a cross over top is down the road!!

I love (NOT) that the pattern is an "Easy" pattern. To sew YES, to adjust; not in a million years!

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Forgiveness does not excuse the behaviour. It prevents the behaviour from breaking your heart over and over again.

jadamo00
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Date: 8/24/12 11:54 AM

I think this is structurally related to the cross-over top:

I have never been able to wear a wrap dress. It must totally be the way I'm shaped, or the particular way I walk and sit. I ached over the ease with which people strutted that Diane Von F wrap, but I could never keep the flipping thing CLOSED.

And I don't mean it would just open a little at the hem. The thing would be wide open right up to the waist!

Kinda like the Scott in the kilt in the photo with the Queen...

j.





-- Edited on 8/26/12 7:56 PM --

solosmocker
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Date: 8/26/12 7:49 PM

Despite many good hearted attempts I finally gave up on making crossover tops or dresses for myself. I find them uncomfortable, feeling like one boob up, one boob down. Tried and tried but they are just not for me. FWIW, I am very narrow in the torso and wear a c cup with narrow shoulders.

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LarryD
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Date: 8/26/12 9:03 PM

Best you laugh at it you'll get more satisfaction than tears, good luck!








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