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Forum > Fitting Woes > Fitting help with neck on simple tee!! ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Fitting help with neck on simple tee!!
tg33

tg33
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Date: 8/24/12 6:16 AM

Hi, I've made NL6735 a good few times now, but the neck is a bit too big, it doesn't show up in all fabrics but is very obvious in the current fabric (100% cotton interlock I think). I would love to improve the fit of this top, can anyone help????

ETA: apologies for the size of the pics (I hope they help see the problem) and the spots.

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-- Edited on 8/24/12 6:17 AM --
-- Edited on 8/24/12 6:20 AM --
-- Edited on 8/24/12 6:21 AM --

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kathyann
kathyann
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Date: 8/24/12 7:14 AM

The neckline may have stretched when you finished it. Staystitching as soon as you take the pattern off the fabric is a big help with this. I always do this now, using directional staystitching.

mssewcrazy
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Date: 8/24/12 7:28 AM

When I started sewing knit muslins I was having this issue. Several things I did that I got from people on here helped. One was to pull the neck band tighter in the curved areas and less in the straighter sections. Another thing I have done after this happens is to remove the band and cut it shorter and ease stitch the neck slightly before reapplying if the neck of the shirt seems to be stretched out from the handling and ripping. I have decided this sort of thing happens most often when the knit is a cheaper type that doesn't have the recovery of better knits so the bands will need to be cut shorter. I wish I had learned earlier to take off the neckband when the bad thing happens as I tossed several shirts and tanks that I could have saved. My favorite sleeveless shell is one from cheap knit I ease stitched a little where the neck had been stretched out from handling and shortened the band so I was happy to find all is not lost when a neckband isn't just right but can be done over without problems. It is really frustrating when this stuff happens.

tg33

tg33
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Date: 8/24/12 7:53 AM

FWIW, I was using Sarah Veblens (sp?) method for estimating the length of a neckband. I think the staystitching is a good idea. I was also wondering if I need to go down a size?

This knit has poor recovery, but it isn't a cheap fabric.

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KathySews
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Date: 8/24/12 8:25 AM

I don't understand stay stitching a knit because it needs to stretch at some point.

I have started adding clear elastic to the neckline front area. It seems to help. I took the tee class and I like her method of getting the neckband right. She measures front and back and removes 1" from each.

btw, pretty tee
-- Edited on 8/24/12 8:29 AM --

TJSEWS
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Date: 8/24/12 10:03 AM

I too don't understand the need for staystitching a knit because it might inhibit the stretching needed at that area.

I tried Sarah Veblen's method that is on the Threads website and I ended up with the front too loose and the back nice and snug. She tells you to make quarter marks at the neckline opening and quarter marks on the neck band and match the quarter marks from the neckline to the quarter marks at the band.

What I do now is I still quarter mark the neckband but for the neckline opening, I move the marks that end up near the shoulder seams 1/2 inch further down the front and I have had a great improvement. By moving the mark down 1/2 inch on each side, you must stretch the front neckline a little more when sewing to fit the neckband resulting in a snug fit that hugs the body.

I did not take her tee class but it sounds like she modified her method from what is posted on the website. I will have to give what KathySews says a try (removing 1" from front and back each).
-- Edited on 8/24/12 10:04 AM --

Silknmore
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In reply to TJSEWS <<


Date: 8/24/12 10:13 AM

3 Comments:

1. Based on the type of fabric and amount of stretch, I have found that I need to alter the size of the neck band. Because cotton interlock has no lycra, I'd use a shorter band.

2. Once you have the correct band size, stretch it more in the center front to decrease the pouching.

3. After making dozens of t-shirts of all sizes, cotton interlock is the fabric that gives me the poorest neckband results. For that reason I now choose patterns with facings if using interlock.

Good luck,
Annette

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Silknmore
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Lovin To Stitch
Lovin To Stitch
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Date: 8/24/12 10:18 AM

Stay stiitching won't effect the stretch after the garment is constructed. Its purpose is to help prevent stretching from point of cutting out through the construction process. Essentially, it helps assure that the pieces remain the same size/shape as when originally cut out. My suggestion would also have been to try inserting clear elastic to stabalize, take in extra fullness, and hug the body to prevent gaping. I agree that it appears part of the problem appears to be accidental stretching.

tg33

tg33
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Date: 8/24/12 12:55 PM

FWIW, I have clear elastic, but I have found it very hard to stitch in the past. It seems to wriggle out from under the presser foot, and I didn't want to baste it as it would tear the elastic? This may all be in my own head!!

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LynnRowe
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In reply to tg33 <<
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Date: 8/24/12 1:17 PM

This may get some disagreement, but here is my imo; the #1 problem is your fabric.

To properly apply a neckband to a neckline, the band needs to be cut smaller and stretched to fit while sewn. Then the band fabric will relax back to it's unstretched self, keeping the neckline snug, smooth and flat.

For the band fabric to be stretched and then recover to its unstretched size, it must...MUST...have good recovery.

100% cotton interlock has zilch in the way of recovery; stretched, it stays stretched. And the result is what you're wearing.

At least for the neck band, try a knit that has lycra in it. The lycra will help the fabric retain its recovery ability.

I dislike 100% cotton knits, and interlock in particular for tops, as they just do not have the drape, nor the stretch and recovery so vital to knit tops, and especially for neckbands.

I have never stay-stitched a knit neckline, and never would advise doing so. Don't pick the front and back pieces up by the shoulders, carry the fabric pieces lumped in your hands to move the fabric to prevent stretching, and don't allow the fabric pieces to drape off the side of anything. Don't stretch the neckline when attaching the neckband; stretch only the neckband.

As a very general rule, you want your neckband to be apx 2-3 inches shorter in length than the length of your neckline.

As a very specific rule (mine, lol!) skip the 100% cotton or any other fibre, totally skip the cotton interlock, and go with good quality poly/lycra, ITY/lycra, or rayon/lycra fabrics for knit tops, especially when you're still in the learning phase.


ETA: other than the fabric problem, your top looks very good, nice shaping in the sleeve cap, grainline is straight...very nice! Well done!



-- Edited on 8/24/12 1:23 PM --

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I heart Panzy, Pfaff Creative Performance, the sewing machine love of my life!
And Baby (Enlighten serger), Victor (BLCS), Rupert (Pfaff 2023-knits expert) Ash (B350SE-Artwork), Kee (B750QEE-Panzy's BFF), Georgie (B560-Kee's baby sister) and the Feather-Flock!

Most of all, I heart Woo (HimmyCat). Until we meet again, my beautiful little boy. I love you.

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