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FBA on a dress
JTink
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JTink
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Date: 8/31/12 4:42 PM

I'm working on Butterick 5706 View A. I separated the bottom part of the dress from the bodice by cutting about an inch below the waistline. I made a one inch FBA. I'm now re-attaching the bottom to the top. My concern is, there is only a 5/8" length added at the center front. When I do an FBA on a "bodice only", I usually slice that center front piece at near the bottom and add the same amount as the FBA(one inch, in my case). There is no indication that this is done on a dress. I'm using the instructions per FFRP Page 158. Is this 5/8 inch right, or did I do something wrong?

Rhoda K
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Date: 8/31/12 4:50 PM

Butterick 5706

diane s
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Date: 8/31/12 11:55 PM

You have to add a little more tissue to the side seam below the waist, in the book it says 'true seam', but you're adding the difference since the fba didn't go through the skirt when you cut it off at the waist.

------
My grandmother taught me to sew when I was 10, and I've been sewing ever since.

JTink
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JTink
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Date: 9/1/12 7:58 AM

Thanks Rhoda for posting the link(I've got to learn how to do that one day)

Thanks Diane, but it's not the side seam that's wonky, it's the area along the center front. If it were a "regular" bodice, I think it would be line 4. I was always under the impression that Line 4 was to be the length of the FBA...example: If the FBA is one inch, the length added at line 4 would be an inch. While re-attaching the bottom portion of the dress, I found that there was only a 5/8 inch length increase. I might go on and run up a muslin as is, and see what happens. Might not be a biggie.

Debbie Cook
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Date: 9/1/12 10:15 AM

This dress is basically a really long tee shirt. I would tape the bodice section back on and do the FBA just like you're used to, cutting your vertical cut all the way to the hem, and then filling in with tissue where the extra length is added.

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--
"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com

tinflutterby
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Date: 9/1/12 4:09 PM

I wouldn't expect the dress pattern adjustment to be any different than the blouse would be. It isn't for me. Line 4 still needs to be done before putting the skirt back on. I would probably do a quick tissue check and then do what seems right to get the waist where it belongs.

diane s
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In reply to JTink <<


Date: 9/1/12 4:50 PM

Quote: JTink
Thanks Diane, but it's not the side seam that's wonky, it's the area along the center front. If it were a "regular" bodice, I think it would be line 4. I was always under the impression that Line 4 was to be the length of the FBA...example: If the FBA is one inch, the length added at line 4 would be an inch.

I don't think that's not necessarily true. I've taken the FFRP class and I go to Fit Review class with Marta monthly. She says to make sure the bottom is even after the fba, not that it has to be a certain m measurement. You can even add the extra at the bottom if you want instead of inserting it like the pix.
I went down and checked a fba I made, it was 3/4" and the length I added was 5/8". I'm going to send her a quick email ask her to clarify.

------
My grandmother taught me to sew when I was 10, and I've been sewing ever since.

JTink
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In reply to diane s <<


Date: 9/2/12 8:53 AM

Thank you all so much. Since I've already separated the garment and made the FBA on the bodice only, I think I'm going to leave it as is and get the bottom re-connected. Diane, thanks for double checking for me. I wish Marta was close enough around here for me to take her classes.

Cuffs
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Date: 9/2/12 11:41 PM

Yes, Diane is right, the length needed won't necessarily be the width you added. It depends on the angle of the line drawn to the armhole. You will need more length as that line is lower on the armhole.

JTink
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Date: 9/3/12 8:48 AM

Just an up-date...I put the pattern pieces back together and left the length as it was (5/8). Made the muslin and with the exception of a few minor tweaks, all seems to be fine...thanks to everyone for all the suggestions

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