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Forum > Fitting Woes > Shoulder to bust ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Shoulder to bust
Arghhh!
unoduck
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Date: 8/31/12 5:28 PM

I have bought a fit pattern, and I am absolutely determined to figure out what fit adjustments I need, so I can start sewing for myself again!
Here is my issue: I am short from shoulder to bust, but long from bust to waist! Basically, If I could take 2 inches from the shoulder, and drop it down under my bust, that would be perfect. I know I can easily lengthen a waist on a pattern, but how on earth do you shorten the shoulder to bust without putting your neckline as a choker?
Is this fit asjustment called anything? Besides infuriating?

JeanM

JeanM
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Date: 8/31/12 7:15 PM

It's a petite adjustment, usually (even if you aren't petite).

It's not one that I need, so I haven't done one and have no good advice to share - but I have seen discussion about making this adjustment, there is advice out there, and you aren't the only one!

Lena Merrin
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Lena Merrin
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In reply to unoduck <<


Date: 8/31/12 7:38 PM

I would pin the required amount above bust horizontally from side to side (or fold it on the pattern) and then lower the armscye to restore it's original depth

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Nancy K
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In reply to unoduck <<
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Date: 8/31/12 8:01 PM

Are you actually short or do you have a high bust? There is a difference. If you are high busted, you can just move the dart up or the shaping in a princess seam but drawing a box around the dart or shaping and move it up. If you are short between the shoulder and bust then you have to fold out the amount above the bust and you have to remove the same amount across the sleeve. I think that 2" is a lot to shorten a sleeve cap. Way too much, so I am inclined to think that it is the former. The waist just gets lengthened at the lengthen shorten line.

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sewme47
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In reply to Nancy K <<


Date: 9/1/12 3:45 PM

2 inches does sound like a lot. The way you can tell if this is a needed adjustment is if seems like your tops would fit better when you pinch up the shoulder seams.

I take 3/4 inch out of the upper chest area--above the armscye notch, straight across the front, back, and sleeve cap. It is a rather difficult adjustment because it messes up the sleeve cap /armscye relationship. It requires a lot of fiddling to get everything looking good. But it's the only way I can get a top to fit right.

solosmocker
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Date: 9/1/12 7:09 PM

I also believe two inches is way too much. I am five feet tall with average vertical proportions. I take a half inch out of the upper chest AND upper back AND sleeve. I do this from the notch in front to the center front, then same in back and across the sleeve. Once this is done you have to drop the bottom of the armscye down the same half inch or your sleeve will not fit and the armhole will be too tight.

I make muslins. Cut the pattern out as is in similar weight junk fabric. Sew it up with no facings or buttons or trims, very very basic just to get it to fit. Pin out your tucks as discussed and see what happens. I find muslin making very worthwhile investment of my time and it saves me time in the long run. Don't let anyone tell you it takes to long to make a muslin. It takes a lot longer to try and backtrack fit a garment that doesn't fit and it already cut out. Good luck and please let us know how it all works out.
-- Edited on 9/1/12 7:10 PM --

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unoduck
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In reply to sewme47 <<


Date: 9/3/12 2:12 PM

Yes, the bodices are perfect when I grab a pinch off the shoulder, and shift the whole thing up. So I need to lower the armscye, for sure. What do you do to the neckline? Or do you take the adjustment below the neckline, and it turns out OK?

unoduck
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In reply to Nancy K <<


Date: 9/3/12 2:14 PM

I never thought about a high bust - but I don't think that it is. (nothing high about my bust, these days, haha.) If I grab a big pinch off the shoulder seam on the finished garment, everything looks where it should be. Except, of course, the waist, shoulder, and armhole. And maybe 2 inches is an exaggeration....

unoduck
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In reply to solosmocker <<
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Date: 9/3/12 2:15 PM

Yep, it sounds like I just need to stop being lazy and make a muslin!

Nancy K
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In reply to unoduck <<


Date: 9/3/12 3:10 PM

If you are only talking about the outer shoulder when you pinch it up it's a sloping shoulder adjustment. I have a low shoulder and in jackets and coats I add padding to the shoulder pad and lower the underarm that amount. In blouses and tops I take out the adjustment at the shoulder and lower the underarm so that it is the same size and the sleeve cape doesn't have to change.
It would be better to see photos of your garment, and yes make a muslin, with cf and cross grain, or a horizontal balance line above the waist and below the bust clearly visible. These marks help figure out what the problem is. It makes 'reading the wrinkles' easier. Have someone take the pictures. Front, side, back, side arms down at your sides and stand normally. Pin cf closed.
-- Edited on 9/3/12 3:13 PM --

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