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Forum > Fitting Woes > Correcting the fit above the bust ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Correcting the fit above the bust
Simplicity 1473 after lowering bust darts
Ranskanainen
Ranskanainen
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Member since 8/22/12
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Date: 9/8/12 2:57 PM

I'm checking the last adjustments on my copy of the Simplicity 1473 pattern before cutting the fabric, the muslin fits just fine on the hips and waist, and the bust fits better after lowering the darts(picture, and apologies for the surroundings, terrible muslin fabric and unraveling seams), but the fit above the bust is still loose all around, and both front neckline (picture, where I am not leaning much forward, barely slumping down my shoulders) and back are gaping as soon as I don't stand up straight. I just don't fill it up around the shoulders, not a back shape issue but just too big there.

I tried taking in a little at the side seams under the armpits, and just now basted darts down the center fold on the front (down to the bust line) and the back to simulate the effect of the adjustment described here (the first method). Better, but still not entirely satisfied - it may be the (terrible) quality of the muslin fabric, too...

So here's my plan: for the front, rotating just the upper part of the bodice pattern, say, starting 1 inch above the bustline - not the entire bodice, as the rest of it is fitted already.
For the back, which is gaping much more, if sticking to the recommendation to use that method one for up to 1 inch, a combination of rotating the back piece and transferring back neck darts to the shoulder seam? In the case, for the back, does the rotation have to be identical to the rotation of the front piece in depth and/or in length?
(And of course redrawing neckline and facings thereafter.)

I'd appreciate any comments on this "plan"! Am I going in the right direction at all?

Julia C
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Julia C  Friend of PR
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In reply to Ranskanainen <<


Date: 9/9/12 10:32 AM

I actually like your muslin fabric. It works well with the style of the dress.
Did you use your upper bust measurement for the size? That & a FBA might take care of the gaping. Maybe try pinning darts in the neckline, then transferring them to your pattern would take out enough of the gaping to work for you. Hope you get it to fit.

unfinishedprojects
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Alberta CANADA
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Date: 9/9/12 11:04 AM

I am currently making a 1961 dress and the bodice alterations had me stumped until I clued in that the bras were significantly different back then. Instead of messing with the pattern I just went out and bought a pointy long line bra (from Sears- some of the boxed bra styles haven't changed in 50 years.) Now the bodice fits perfectly; zero alterations, not even my usual FBA.

Ranskanainen
Ranskanainen
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Member since 8/22/12
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Date: 9/9/12 3:11 PM

Thanks for the comments!
I did go by the upper bust for pattern sizing, which unfortunately was not quite accurately measured (probs around 1 inch too much) so I guess this is a big part of the problem - I was expecting to size up at the waist and hips much more than I actually did, so the top was definitely too big.
I also automatically lowered the darts on the bust at the very beginning, since it's a 50s dress - I have Rago underwear but not aiming for the true vintage bust style with that one, hehe!

So here's how it looks after the "simulation" darts: the back and the front.
I'm reasonably happy with the fit, so I chopped up the pattern above the bustline at the front and at the back waistline, rotated, and re-drawn the neckline perpendicular to the fold. Now just redrawing slightly the armscye and all facings, and to hope that the long and narrow simulation darts did not imply enough actual shaping to mess up the fit...

Michele Lommasson
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Date: 9/10/12 6:36 AM

You can sometimes pinch the excess fullness out of the neckline on the actual pattern piece. Then flatten the pattern to the best of you abilities ( there will be puckers on the pattern piece). Retrace the pattern if you like, with the new neckline, or just lay the pattern with its changes on the fabric to be cut. Ignore the puckers, they won't transfer to the fabric. This often works well.

------
Michele Lommasson

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