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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > What size to choose in Vogue, Butterick and McCalls?

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What size to choose in Vogue, Butterick and McCalls?
Clareew
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Clareew  Friend of PR
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Member since 5/10/06
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Date: 9/9/12 11:54 AM

I always have a problem with choosing the correct size in tops and jackets. I usually use Vogue, Mcalls or Butterick patterns but am not sure which size to choose.

Looking at photos of some of my previous garments, a lot are too big. I know I should flat pattern measure, but to get there I have to have bought the pattern.

I have recently lost weight and have more to lose so I am not sure what to choose.

I used to be an H cup, but after a mastectomy and reconstruction I am now between an A and B.

I am 5' 2.5", my bust is 38" upper chest is 37". I am looking to make some woven tops, how much ease do I need?

I have had a few wadders lately and would like advice before choosing my next project.

------
Clare

Machines: Juki F600, Juki 654 serger, Bernina 550 for art work, Janome Coverpro 1000cp barely used
A Singer Featherweight Centennial and an old Necci in the loft waiting for TLC

http://art-by-clare.blogspot.co.uk/

AdaH
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AdaH  Friend of PR
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In reply to Clareew <<


Date: 9/9/12 12:18 PM

First off congratulations on the weight loss. Going from an H cup to a B cup has to be a challenge. You need a whole new mind set.

What parts of your garments are feeling to big?
Do you have a woven RTW top that you like the fit of? Measure the circumference of that top and then use that as your guide.

I had to go snoop shopping with a tape measure before I figured out how much ease I like in my woven tops. The hard part of this was finding someplace to lay the garment flat so I could measure it.

Just checked Simplicity sizing. Looks like you are a size 16.

What size did you use that didn't work?

------
Ada

CraftAddict
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Date: 9/9/12 12:44 PM

I read recently that wearing ease is approx. 2-3 inches. In addition to the size chart, you'll also want to check the finished garment measurements. They used to print these on the backs of the envelopes but I've noticed some of the pattern companies have taken to printing the measurements on the actual pattern - which pretty much sucks because now you need to unfold the pattern to get to those measurements. However Vogue usually has some helpful info in the description (close-fitting, loose-fitting, etc.) So basically you need to start with good measurements and then decide how much ease you like in your garments. I like no more than 3 inches of ease but others prefer more loose-fitting garments.

beauturbo
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In reply to Clareew <<


Date: 9/9/12 4:28 PM

Off hand I might guess you might ( by just how a lot of them might feel and look on you) be someplace between a size 12 and 14 on those patterns for some tops and jackets. Ones that are not terribly tight fitting to the body everyplace, even though it might not look like that just from your bust measurement and compared to the body measurements listed on the back of the pattern envelope. How it fit (around the armholes and such) in size 12 v.s. 14, probably would have a lot to do with if you had small shoulders or larger shoulders maybe.

Try to find patterns that at least have the real garments finished bust measurement printed on the pattern piece or maybe on the back of the pattern envelope. Even if it's printed on the actual tissue only, I don't think that only means you have to buy the pattern sight unseen first. At a pattern counter, in a real store, where you have actual access to the patterns, and can take them out of the pattern drawer yourself and hold them in your hands, I think most times if you open them up and look at the tissue pieces just real careful, preserving the original folds in them, to do that, and make sure to put all back just perfect, the employees there are not going to really freak out and turn into the "pattern police" there and grab them away from you or attempt to stop you from doing that most times.

If the widest part of your bust is 38 inches though, I think you will probably want maybe at least 40 inches real garment measurement in a non knit top in the end though, or would not have any ease and might be kind of hard to move around in it.

On all the multi-sized patterns though they have different "splits", and sometimes that multi sized split, splits after size 12, so size 14 might even be a different envelope. I think if you can find some pattern you like that has size 12 and 14 in the same envelope, that would be a lot better.


lyndle
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lyndle  Friend of PR
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Date: 9/9/12 5:34 PM

I sympathise- I haven't found my correct size in these patterns either. I mostly sew Burda, Kwiksew and Style Arc now where the ease is more normal compared to RTW.
Ease measurements on envelopes are usualy in inches only which annoys me as I have to do a lot of conversion.
But I did notice that in the back of the catalogs there is a chart explaining the amount of ease at bust, waist and hip for each type of pattern ( I think I was looking at Vogue and they explained semi-fitted, fitted, etc which are terms they use to describe their patterns). I have read a number of people who say they go down a size from their measurements in the Big 4 patterns. Hopefully someone more experienced will weigh in on this!

Restart06
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Restart06
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In reply to Clareew <<


Date: 9/9/12 11:29 PM

Have you tried silhouette patterns? Tbe measurements on the back of the envelope are finished measurements. So pick you favorite blouse measure it and that is the size you select. The there is the different cups sizes in each pattern. The link is; link

She also has every 2 weeks a webinar that is free. The old ones are on her website that you can view at your leisure.

Style Arc is another company I am going to try, as I am tired of wadders. Had 2 jacket/coat wadders over the weekend. Good luck!

------
There is no easy way! quote from my Grandfather
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Bar Turpin
Bar Turpin
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Date: 9/10/12 3:49 AM

In reading the posts, the word "wadder" has shown up several times. What is the meaning of the word?
Thanks for the help, Somebody.

Bar

Clareew
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Clareew  Friend of PR
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Date: 9/10/12 4:57 AM

Thanks everyone for your advice, I will go and measure some of my favourite tops and compare with my patterns.

AdaH, I think the shoulders are the main problem, too wide so they make the garment look like someone elses.

A 'wadder' is a garment that you are unlikely to wear because the style, fit and/or fabric don't work. This is one of the downsides of making your own clothes. In a shop you can just hand the garment back after trying it on and thinking 'no. ' If you have made your garment, the fact that you have put in time, effort and money to produce the garment, is much more frustrating.
-- Edited on 9/10/12 5:00 AM --

------
Clare

Machines: Juki F600, Juki 654 serger, Bernina 550 for art work, Janome Coverpro 1000cp barely used
A Singer Featherweight Centennial and an old Necci in the loft waiting for TLC

http://art-by-clare.blogspot.co.uk/

meleliza
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meleliza  Friend of PR
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PA
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In reply to Bar Turpin <<


Date: 9/10/12 9:44 AM

When a garment is so unsatisfactory the only thing you can do with it is wad it up and throw it away, it's a "wadder."

------
Melanie

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